Rkreigh

Ok

I got the dual valve catch can with the optional air breather

I have a TTIx twin turbo. I want to make sure I understand the best connections for the catch can and ensure I have the right routing

is it a good idea to run a hose and T both inlet pipes before the turbo

at the same time, I'm upgrade to aftermarket valve covers, and need to be sure I know what I'm doing before poking holes and putting any fittings in.

I have an email into byun and will post up their reply to confirm

thanks for any help. very nice product, and it looks like it will work well

thanks

The Bat Car

Yes on the T. That way you get the most vac possible while under boost.

Emailed you more diagrams.

beavisr1

I would like to know how well a poly check valves does under boost, I'm currently using a very expensive stainless steel check valve for my PVC system. I would think that plastic ones would not be able to hold up under pressure and would leak by over time.

The Bat Car

Thousands of these in use and not a single failure reported yet....and he has them on up to 1200 HP and 23# of boost so I'd suspect they are pretty dang reliable. But time will tell.

Rkreigh

thanks for the great info another question

I have the optional breather, so should I also tap into both valve covers?

do I have to take the pass side tap off the back of the drivers side valve cover or would the tapping into the front work ok?

the pic that shows "to the intake" that hose just plugs into the port right behind the throttle body?

sorry for the all the questions but I'm making cuts on some custom sheet metal valve covers and following the "measure twice" cut once rule

thanks for the feedback, I'll look for the info in my email

The Bat Car

With the breather I would pull from the drivers side only as the breather will be in the pass side. This will give a good cross flow "flush" of the crankcase vapors with the fresh make up air entering the breather travels around the rockers, down the pushrod valley, through the crankcase and up the drivers side pushrod valley and up out around the rockers and out the drivers side valve cover. This gives a great complete flush of the crankcase.

The Bat Car

Here are some of the colors:


Any tech questions, just ask!

TLK

The description here and on the ordering site doesn't quite exactly spell it out so I'll ask:

Is the single valve for N/A, the double for FI? Is there any benefit to dual valve for N/A?

thanks.

PeteZ06

Placed my order for a dual valve can and breather!

TheRadioFlyer

Anyone have the size of the can itself? I'm looking to replace my EE can for my FI application and want to make sure the RX can will fit in the same location.

07MontRedcp

The can is approximately 6" x 3". Add another 1.5" to the height for the connections on the top.

BJK

TheRadioFlyer

Thanks. Just placed and order for mine.

The Bat Car

The Bat Car

The single valve units are for NA and top mount super chargers. The dual valve is for turbo or front (remote) mount superchargers.

More details on the Turbo/SC dual valve need


Here are the challenges:
*
Normally, an engine crankcase is evacuated of the harmful combustion byproducts through the use of the intake manifold vacuum. This is at its greatest while at idle, or when decelerating from WOT so this, as long as the flow is regulated (usually by a PCV valve or a fixed orifice) this effectively keeps a constant cross flow of filtered fresh air through the crankcase where it is evacuated.
*
With a turbo charged, or front mount super charger presents a few issues. First, when the intake manifold is pressurized, there is no longer a vacuum source to deal with the combustion by-products, etc.
*
And second, the pressure from the intake is pressurizing the crankcase resulting in less power from the pressure, (breathers alone will release excess pressure, but do not allow the crankcase to be "flushed")*and oil leaks are not uncommon.
*
The dual valve oil separating can has nearly 9" between the inlet & outlet of the can allowing maximum oil separation & containment. The avg can has app. 3". This makes it possible for some oil to be pulled through the avg catch can no matter how well it catchs oil.
*
When the engine is at idle & non-boost operation the main check valve is open and using the intake manifold vacuum for crankcase evac. As soon as the intake is pressurized from boost, the main check valve closes so there can be no back-flow through the can & thus pressurizing the crankcase, and the second valve opens and uses the inlet side of the head unit as a vacuum source (as most kit instructions have you run the evac for all modes of operation) so no matter what state of boost or non-boost the engine is in, it always has positive crankcase evacuation taking place.
*
The can is 3-4 times the capacity of the small ones which not only aids in no oil pull through, but rarely needs emptied except at normal oil change intervals.

TheRadioFlyer

curious what the avg shipping time is on these?

Vettedriver986

i still dont understand all this pcv stuff. I have a single turbo now, and know I need the dual valve kit, but I dont understand what ports get blocked off, and what I connect to the can. Also I think I read somewhere it needs a fresh air source in front of the turbo, but I dont have a pipe in front of the turbo... I just have a filter on the turbo...

Vettedriver986

and are all check valves one way?

07MontRedcp

Yes.

BJK

The Bat Car

App 1 week right now due to the demand.

More details on the Turbo/SC dual valve need


Here are the challenges:
*
Normally, an engine crankcase is evacuated of the harmful combustion byproducts through the use of the intake manifold vacuum. This is at its greatest while at idle, or when decelerating from WOT so this, as long as the flow is regulated (usually by a PCV valve or a fixed orifice) this effectively keeps a constant cross flow of filtered fresh air through the crankcase where it is evacuated.
*
With a turbo charged, or front mount super charger presents a few issues. First, when the intake manifold is pressurized, there is no longer a vacuum source to deal with the combustion by-products, etc.
*
And second, the pressure from the intake is pressurizing the crankcase resulting in less power from the pressure, (breathers alone will release excess pressure, but do not allow the crankcase to be "flushed")*and oil leaks are not uncommon.
*
The dual valve oil separating can has nearly 9" between the inlet & outlet of the can allowing maximum oil separation & containment. The avg can has app. 3". This makes it possible for some oil to be pulled through the avg catch can no matter how well it catchs oil.
*
When the engine is at idle & non-boost operation the main check valve is open and using the intake manifold vacuum for crankcase evac. As soon as the intake is pressurized from boost, the main check valve closes so there can be no back-flow through the can & thus pressurizing the crankcase, and the second valve opens and uses the inlet side of the head unit as a vacuum source (as most kit instructions have you run the evac for all modes of operation) so no matter what state of boost or non-boost the engine is in, it always has positive crankcase evacuation taking place.
*
The can is 3-4 times the capacity of the small ones which not only aids in no oil pull through, but rarely needs emptied except at normal oil change intervals.

The optional breather kit supplies fresh make up air and the suction side of the turbo if there is no intake tube you would add a 1/4 NPTx3/8" nipple in the air filter base as close to the inlet as possible.



Thanks BJK!

Vettedriver986

do you still retain the cars stock pcv valve in line somewhere or do you rid of it with this setup?