Shift point 6400rpm a4 3.42 dosent work
06-12-2014, 01:56 PM
#1
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Shift point 6400rpm a4 3.42 dosent work
we tried 2 hour to made the car shift a 6400 and it dosent work
we reach the rev limiter at 6100 each time and the rev limiter is set a 6700
we change the mph, rev limit, upshift downshift and it still dont work
i have head cam spring package, 2800 stall, 3.42 gear A4
we reach the rev limiter at 6100 each time and the rev limiter is set a 6700
we change the mph, rev limit, upshift downshift and it still dont work
i have head cam spring package, 2800 stall, 3.42 gear A4
06-12-2014, 04:30 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
M6 or auto???
If M6, pull that lever back
Im sorry, I just couldn't help myself....
Sounds like you did, but you MUST have the proper mph entered for it to change. It must obtain the mph before it will shift?
Getting the correct mph is the toughest of the two
If M6, pull that lever back
Im sorry, I just couldn't help myself....
Sounds like you did, but you MUST have the proper mph entered for it to change. It must obtain the mph before it will shift?
Getting the correct mph is the toughest of the two
06-12-2014, 05:48 PM
#3
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Yes the MPH and the rev setting have to be within a certain amount of each other otherwise it defaults to the MPH I think. It has been discussed on the HPTunes site a few times, have a look there.
06-13-2014, 11:43 PM
#5
Safety Car
In EFILive, there is a fuel cut and a throttle body limiter. I got it wrong the first time I set mine to 6900. Specify which software you're using and we can better assist you.
06-14-2014, 08:02 PM
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06-16-2014, 12:52 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
You didn't correctly change your gear ratio, as the calculated gear ratio is 2.73. And your VSS Pulses Per Rev-Trans is too high, and your Trans Revs/Mile is too low. And this caused your shift MPH to be too high.
This attached tune is stock, except I changed it to 3.42 gears from 3.15.
Russ Kemp
This attached tune is stock, except I changed it to 3.42 gears from 3.15.
Russ Kemp
06-16-2014, 07:04 AM
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We already change everything and put back the stock settings
Do you have the printscreen of the change sonwe can use it
We try to change to 3.42 in gear ratio but it dosent work. Look like we need to change something else
Do you have the printscreen of the change sonwe can use it
We try to change to 3.42 in gear ratio but it dosent work. Look like we need to change something else
06-16-2014, 12:51 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Russ Kemp
06-20-2014, 02:01 AM
#17
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
1st of all on a C5 you DO NOT make a speedo correction for any gear change--- you should however make a " shift point correction" very easy with EFILIVE You do have to make a speedo correction with a tire size change
In order to command a shift at WOT the ECM must hit 2 parameters before it will shift 1st it must hit the RPM shift point and then the MPH shift point--If it doesn't hit those in time--it will skip the shift and hit the safety rev limiter
The more modded your car is the larger the "split" has to be--both in downsifts at WOT ans upshifts at WOT
Sorta confusing--But with EFILIVE they give you the data automatically
Lets say you have the RPM commanded to shift at 6400 in 1-2
the way you set the MPH parameter is to see on the bottom of the screen what RPM it shows for the current MPH entered--say it's 50 MPH and the RPM there is 6000---This is called the SPLIT 400 ( 6400-6000) a bone stock car needs a split of at least 700 RPM the more the mods and power--the higher the split is required
For example on my 98 with 475 crank HL I command 6200 RPM and in order for it to shift it needed a 1200 RPM slit---So see what the WOT MPH is on the bottom --on my car the 1-2 WOT MPH was set at 37 MPH where the RPM is 5000 so a 1300 split--shifts perfectly---do the same for the downshift WOT table----( these MPH's are fine to leave matchted)-----then to the 2-3 and the 3-4 and make sure you have at least 1200 rpm slit If you have about 475 crank HP
try this 1st--there is a next step to fix as well if this does not work---if confused email me and we can go over it on the phone
In order to command a shift at WOT the ECM must hit 2 parameters before it will shift 1st it must hit the RPM shift point and then the MPH shift point--If it doesn't hit those in time--it will skip the shift and hit the safety rev limiter
The more modded your car is the larger the "split" has to be--both in downsifts at WOT ans upshifts at WOT
Sorta confusing--But with EFILIVE they give you the data automatically
Lets say you have the RPM commanded to shift at 6400 in 1-2
the way you set the MPH parameter is to see on the bottom of the screen what RPM it shows for the current MPH entered--say it's 50 MPH and the RPM there is 6000---This is called the SPLIT 400 ( 6400-6000) a bone stock car needs a split of at least 700 RPM the more the mods and power--the higher the split is required
For example on my 98 with 475 crank HL I command 6200 RPM and in order for it to shift it needed a 1200 RPM slit---So see what the WOT MPH is on the bottom --on my car the 1-2 WOT MPH was set at 37 MPH where the RPM is 5000 so a 1300 split--shifts perfectly---do the same for the downshift WOT table----( these MPH's are fine to leave matchted)-----then to the 2-3 and the 3-4 and make sure you have at least 1200 rpm slit If you have about 475 crank HP
try this 1st--there is a next step to fix as well if this does not work---if confused email me and we can go over it on the phone
02-05-2018, 06:03 PM
#18
I apologize for the necro post, but this post already has exactly my symptoms and solution. I have a follow up question though, and didn't want to have to start from scratch.
If improperly tuned, such that the car hits the rev limiter on WOT every time eventually cause the 3-4 clutch to burn/wear out? Or would this not be a possible cause for burning up the 3-4 clutches?
A couple of weeks after replacing my motor my original transmission lost 3rd and 4th gear. I put in a new built transmission and shortly after it also lost 3rd and 4th gear. So two different transmissions (the original was replaced, not rebuilt) both lost 3rd and 4th gear within 1000 miles of each other. The original had 125k miles, and the new one ~500 miles.
My car has had tuning issues, after the new motor was installed I took it to a local tuning/performance shop in Salt Lake City and they have been a nightmare. The tune is horrible, they don't care, short version is it just hits the rev limiter instead of shifting after they tuned it. I need to have a real tune after I install my 3rd transmission, but now I'm scared to replace it if there is something wrong with the car/tune and not necessarily a transmission failure issue.
Thoughts?
If improperly tuned, such that the car hits the rev limiter on WOT every time eventually cause the 3-4 clutch to burn/wear out? Or would this not be a possible cause for burning up the 3-4 clutches?
A couple of weeks after replacing my motor my original transmission lost 3rd and 4th gear. I put in a new built transmission and shortly after it also lost 3rd and 4th gear. So two different transmissions (the original was replaced, not rebuilt) both lost 3rd and 4th gear within 1000 miles of each other. The original had 125k miles, and the new one ~500 miles.
My car has had tuning issues, after the new motor was installed I took it to a local tuning/performance shop in Salt Lake City and they have been a nightmare. The tune is horrible, they don't care, short version is it just hits the rev limiter instead of shifting after they tuned it. I need to have a real tune after I install my 3rd transmission, but now I'm scared to replace it if there is something wrong with the car/tune and not necessarily a transmission failure issue.
Thoughts?
