Hypertech Shift Points?
04-03-2017, 12:55 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hypertech Shift Points?
Hi, first of all, Id like to thank the members here that have helped me.
Everything from advice to part numbers..Really appreciate this forum..
So Im changing my rearend next week, I have a 1998 Auto, and am installing a 2003 3.42 Z06 3 rib diff. Ive been told I will need to change the shift points. Im planning on buying the hypertech and it supposedly will do that and more. What would the proper shift points be for the new rear end?
Everything from advice to part numbers..Really appreciate this forum..
So Im changing my rearend next week, I have a 1998 Auto, and am installing a 2003 3.42 Z06 3 rib diff. Ive been told I will need to change the shift points. Im planning on buying the hypertech and it supposedly will do that and more. What would the proper shift points be for the new rear end?
04-03-2017, 03:07 PM
#2
I haven't had/used a Hypertech for over 10 years, but at the time it would only change WOT shift points, not part throttle shift points. You may need a better tool than what the Hypertech was...
04-03-2017, 11:36 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hypertech
I just looked at the info, and it seems to be able to do various shift changes, hope so, the Diablos dont seem to work on a 98. Maybe I can send it back, if its not right..
04-04-2017, 01:12 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Most handheld programmers only allow you to change WOT MPH up shift and down shift points
When going from a 3.15 rear gear to a 3.42 gear you should change ALL the shift points by a minus 8.5%
When changing from a 2.73 rear gear to a 3.42 it requires a minus 25% change--
A handheld programmer does not allow these % changes accurately---as they make changes globally by MPH only ---and not by percentages
If you do not change ALL the shift points both WOT and P/T your car will not shift right
And at WOT most often your car will not shift at WOT but will hit the safety rev limiter and simply stutter without shifting
When going from a 3.15 rear gear to a 3.42 gear you should change ALL the shift points by a minus 8.5%
When changing from a 2.73 rear gear to a 3.42 it requires a minus 25% change--
A handheld programmer does not allow these % changes accurately---as they make changes globally by MPH only ---and not by percentages
If you do not change ALL the shift points both WOT and P/T your car will not shift right
And at WOT most often your car will not shift at WOT but will hit the safety rev limiter and simply stutter without shifting
04-04-2017, 09:08 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
98. Diablo will not work on a 98 they have a different ECM.
04-12-2017, 05:32 AM
#6
Drifting
Most handheld programmers only allow you to change WOT MPH up shift and down shift points
When going from a 3.15 rear gear to a 3.42 gear you should change ALL the shift points by a minus 8.5%
When changing from a 2.73 rear gear to a 3.42 it requires a minus 25% change--
A handheld programmer does not allow these % changes accurately---as they make changes globally by MPH only ---and not by percentages
If you do not change ALL the shift points both WOT and P/T your car will not shift right
And at WOT most often your car will not shift at WOT but will hit the safety rev limiter and simply stutter without shifting
When going from a 3.15 rear gear to a 3.42 gear you should change ALL the shift points by a minus 8.5%
When changing from a 2.73 rear gear to a 3.42 it requires a minus 25% change--
A handheld programmer does not allow these % changes accurately---as they make changes globally by MPH only ---and not by percentages
If you do not change ALL the shift points both WOT and P/T your car will not shift right
And at WOT most often your car will not shift at WOT but will hit the safety rev limiter and simply stutter without shifting
Raise the top-speed limiter to match the speed rating of high performance tires
* Raise the engine's rpm limiter for increased performance
* Adjust individual automatic transmission shift points and shift firmness
* Recalibrate speedometer and odometer for non-stock tire sizes and/or gear ratio changes
* Lower the cooling fan on/off temperatures to match the thermostat rating
* Read and clear diagnostic trouble codes and turn off "check engine" lights
* Ability to adjust settings or go back to stock calibration at any time
I do remember you can adjust shift points in mph but only at WOT
Most likely need a dyno tune somewhere
Last edited by sirdano; 04-12-2017 at 05:33 AM.
04-17-2017, 07:42 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Hi, first of all, Id like to thank the members here that have helped me.
Everything from advice to part numbers..Really appreciate this forum..
So Im changing my rearend next week, I have a 1998 Auto, and am installing a 2003 3.42 Z06 3 rib diff. Ive been told I will need to change the shift points. Im planning on buying the hypertech and it supposedly will do that and more. What would the proper shift points be for the new rear end?
Everything from advice to part numbers..Really appreciate this forum..
So Im changing my rearend next week, I have a 1998 Auto, and am installing a 2003 3.42 Z06 3 rib diff. Ive been told I will need to change the shift points. Im planning on buying the hypertech and it supposedly will do that and more. What would the proper shift points be for the new rear end?
Thanks for your advice in advance.
04-24-2017, 08:23 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Does a manual 3.42 gear bolt up to the A4 ? are there mods you have to make. I am buying a stock 2004 A4 car and was thinking on replacing the dog 2.73 gear to 3.15 A4 rear. I didn't think the manual rears with 3.42 gear would just bolt up to a A4 car.
Thanks for your advice in advance.
Thanks for your advice in advance.
You do have to re-use the front plate off of YOUR diff and install it on the manual purposed 3.42 diff before installing to make it work --so be sure to keep this plate from your old diff as you do need it----
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BJ67 (04-24-2017)
04-24-2017, 08:30 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
YES the 3.42 diff will fit on an auto trans as well-----I did this same exact mod years ago-----I bought a used complete 3.42 rear end off of a Z06 car and installed it on my 98 auto car--Great mod !!
You do have to re-use the front plate off of YOUR diff and install it on the manual purposed 3.42 diff before installing to make it work --so be sure to keep this plate from your old diff as you do need it----
You do have to re-use the front plate off of YOUR diff and install it on the manual purposed 3.42 diff before installing to make it work --so be sure to keep this plate from your old diff as you do need it----
04-24-2017, 10:01 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
One more thought although i loved the 2.73 to 3.42 rear end mod---It did not show the ET gains I expected
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
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Terry M. (04-24-2017)
04-24-2017, 10:10 PM
#11
Advanced
One more thought although i loved the 2.73 to 3.42 rear end mod---It did not show the ET gains I expected
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
04-24-2017, 10:42 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
One more thought although i loved the 2.73 to 3.42 rear end mod---It did not show the ET gains I expected
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
Honestly the best mod you can do on any automatic car is installing a higher stall converter
The 3.42 mod gained only 2-3 tenths in my 1/4 mile times--However when i installed a 3000 stall converter i gained 1/2 second in my 1/4 mile times---With only approx 400 RWHP I would run low 12 second times with an auto trans !!
If you don't know how a stall converter works as most people don't here is a brief explanation
A Stock C5 converter stalls at about 1400 RPM's meaning the converter slips to only 1400 RPM's then it goes to a 1:1 ratio So when you floor the throttle from a dead stop the converter stops multiplying TQ at 1400 So at launch at 1400 RPM s your engine is only making about 100 HP-----BUT add a 3000 stall--then at launch the converter slips up to 3000 RPMs but now at 3000 it is making maybe 300 HP over tripling the launch HP !!! You now leave from a dead stop with 300 HP rather than 100 HP-----because the converter now goes 1:1 at a higher RPM where it nw makes more HP and TQ---
Running low 12's is saying something without any other mods
05-12-2017, 06:20 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
243 heads stock
221/221 @ .50 cam with .600 lift using 1.8 Yella Terra rockers
Fast 78 MM intake manifold
LT headers
custom 3" exhaust ( no mufflers) with stock cats
Ported stock T-Body
Stage 3 Performabuilt trans
3000 Phoenix stall conveter
05-12-2017, 06:46 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Sorry my car was heavily modded to make 400 RWHP of course
243 heads stock
221/221 @ .50 cam with .600 lift using 1.8 Yella Terra rockers
Fast 78 MM intake manifold
LT headers
custom 3" exhaust ( no mufflers) with stock cats
Ported stock T-Body
Stage 3 Performabuilt trans
3000 Phoenix stall conveter
243 heads stock
221/221 @ .50 cam with .600 lift using 1.8 Yella Terra rockers
Fast 78 MM intake manifold
LT headers
custom 3" exhaust ( no mufflers) with stock cats
Ported stock T-Body
Stage 3 Performabuilt trans
3000 Phoenix stall conveter
