Remote Tuning an LS3 swapped C5
#22
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
You would be better off.....
You would be better off with a later model E38 ecm, harness, and knock sensors.
I've played with too many peoples "converted" engine swaps and it never works out right.
Simply put, there is no way to properly use LS1 knock sensors and an LS1 pcm to correctly/safely
detect knock when using a later model block.
EVERYONE messes with it, but there's simply no reliable way to do it right.
I've turned down more than a few jobs like this because they waste tons of time and in my opinion
never turn out right..... Considering all the money and time you put into them.
I always use an LS1 based stroker motor and change the heads to get it working right.
This way everything works out right.
Chuck CoW
#24
Safety Car
Chuck is exactly correct.
You will **** around with this forever and never know if it’s correct.
Brst bet is to turn them off and keep the tune conservative.
You will **** around with this forever and never know if it’s correct.
Brst bet is to turn them off and keep the tune conservative.
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Chuck CoW (08-10-2018)
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
What is considered a "safe" timing figure under WOT for a stock headed LS3/L92 with a 228/237 cam on 93 pump gas?
#26
Safety Car
I tune my stuff. My LS1 which is just above 11:1 runs best with around 20-22 at TQ peak. Which is about 5200 in my case. Above that you can ramp it up with rpm.
A dyno will be handy. If you get it into knock, power will drop.
People say read the plugs, ok, I doubt you would see subtle knock.
I really wanted to put a 6.2 in my C5, but stroking the LS1 to 383 just makes more sense.
A dyno will be handy. If you get it into knock, power will drop.
People say read the plugs, ok, I doubt you would see subtle knock.
I really wanted to put a 6.2 in my C5, but stroking the LS1 to 383 just makes more sense.
Last edited by RonSSNova; 08-07-2018 at 10:19 PM.
#28
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it.....
Thank you for lending support here.... It's SIMPLY NOT WORTH IT to mess around....
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it....or BOTH...... VERY SIMPLE.
Installing a block that can not make use of the knock sensors EXACTLY HOW GM PROGRAMMED THEM.... IS STUPID.
Chuck CoW
#29
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Trust me...... I've tried it.
After messing with all the sensitivity tables with dozens of my own iterations I have to agree, even now I'm still getting KR here and there and have no clue why.
What is considered a "safe" timing figure under WOT for a stock headed LS3/L92 with a 228/237 cam on 93 pump gas?
What is considered a "safe" timing figure under WOT for a stock headed LS3/L92 with a 228/237 cam on 93 pump gas?
If you're having problems with 6 DEG KR up top..... you have KNOCK SENSOR PROBLEMS.
I've tuned a million of these ECMS and I've seen it many times.
Chuck CoW
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thank you for lending support here.... It's SIMPLY NOT WORTH IT to mess around....
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it....or BOTH...... VERY SIMPLE.
Installing a block that can not make use of the knock sensors EXACTLY HOW GM PROGRAMMED THEM.... IS STUPID.
Chuck CoW
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it....or BOTH...... VERY SIMPLE.
Installing a block that can not make use of the knock sensors EXACTLY HOW GM PROGRAMMED THEM.... IS STUPID.
Chuck CoW
If you've done a million of these setups, do you have a meaningful suggestion for this application?
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sydneyACE (02-18-2020)
#32
Thank you for lending support here.... It's SIMPLY NOT WORTH IT to mess around....
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it....or BOTH...... VERY SIMPLE.
Installing a block that can not make use of the knock sensors EXACTLY HOW GM PROGRAMMED THEM.... IS STUPID.
Chuck CoW
You want a bigger motor, build an LS1 stroker or put LS3 heads and intake on it....or BOTH...... VERY SIMPLE.
Installing a block that can not make use of the knock sensors EXACTLY HOW GM PROGRAMMED THEM.... IS STUPID.
Chuck CoW
I would run an Ls3 before a ran a ls1 based stroker. Ls1 anything is a waste of time with how cheap the 4 inch+ stuff is IMO.
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sydneyACE (02-18-2020)
#34
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Inexpensive.....
problems using an LS1 ecm and sensors....
Or, just a 383 LS1 block and 243 heads..... Done right, you don't have to have big dollars in it.
For those reading this, you can't put LS3 heads on a stock bore LS1 as the valves will hit the cyl sleeves and the only
other option is to re-machine to shift the head dowels but not really worth it.
Many options, but again NOT worth using an LS2 or LS3 block where the knock sensors will NEVER work right.
Chuck CoW
#35
Instructor
Technically any modification to the engine aside from OEM parts pretty much invalidates “exact how GM programmed them.” They are just piezoelectric microphones tuned to a certain frequency and mV or detection. They can be made to work with lots of work but your best bet is to figure out max timing via spark hook test and back it off a bit.
#36
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Build a stroked LS block....
Build a stroked LS1 or 6.0 iron block.... otherwise Knock sensors won't work. Everyone who knows better.... knows this.
The guys with non existent knock sensors...or knock sensors in the wrong location or otherwise in the wrong block/ecm configuration
are wasting time, money, and possibly much more.
Chuck CoW