Tuning for a 3200 stall converter 99 a4 3.15s
08-05-2018, 01:26 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Tuning for a 3200 stall converter 99 a4 3.15s
Folks,
I plan to buy hp tuners soon but did tune my car few years back. I never really did anything after the 3200 install. I just did you average changes most do on these cars. The engine is stock, headers, vararam, catback, z06 intake...that's pretty much it. Car runs good but perhaps I should change the tranny setting such as lockup and other tranny settings...please let me know what you guys have done with a 3200 stall...thanks very much
I plan to buy hp tuners soon but did tune my car few years back. I never really did anything after the 3200 install. I just did you average changes most do on these cars. The engine is stock, headers, vararam, catback, z06 intake...that's pretty much it. Car runs good but perhaps I should change the tranny setting such as lockup and other tranny settings...please let me know what you guys have done with a 3200 stall...thanks very much
08-06-2018, 12:23 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
YES there are several things you must do when addin a stall converter--It affects you engine more than you think
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
08-06-2018, 12:05 PM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
YES there are several things you must do when addin a stall converter--It affects you engine more than you think
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
08-06-2018, 12:11 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
YES there are several things you must do when addin a stall converter--It affects you engine more than you think
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
1. You need to set your TCC MIN//MAX PWM tables to 95% minimum and 99% maximum---This makes the converter lock hard without and slippage and consequent overheating--
2 I would always recccomend to delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock in your tune and to set the 4th geat lockup to freeway speeds like 53 MPH min up to around 35% TP and after that add 5 MPH to the end of the table at 100% TPS
3 In the 4th unlock table copy and paste the 4th gear lock table into the 4th gear unlock table--Then subtract 13 MPH to the entire table
4 A stall converter adds lots of heat to your trans fluid--I would reccomend an aftermarket additional trans cooler--Not a tube and fin style but a cooler that looks like a mini radiator---called a stacked cooler
5 Instal a 160 thermo in your cooling system----Then you can re set both your coolong fans to come on earlier ( remember your trans fluid goes thru your radiator in stock trim to cool the trans ) So cooling the radiator with a 160 themo and adjusting your fan settings lower will keep both your engine and trans to run much cooler
6 A stall converter creates "FALSE MISFIRES" so it is imperitive to delete all your misfire tables----( a misfire whether real or false will NOT allow your converter to LOCK UP ) Making it overheat--
7 With a 3200 stal you should be able to add lots of timing from of idle to converter stal at 3200 at WOT--This allows your engine to more rapidly accelerate before stall--as the timing will ramp in much faster--And being that the engine is almost in a no load situation there will be little chance of detonation-----Often times I can set the timing from 1000 RPM's to 3200 RPM's with a 3200 stall at WOT from 17-24* timing without any detonation and only a huge gain in throttle response--------
08-12-2018, 03:14 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: CA.
Posts: 5,255
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Received 281 Likes
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258 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Just add based on your comments I do have an external tranny cooler added and it works great. The tranny really does not get hot at all. Its a pro torque 3200 stall with a STR around 2.1 or so from what I remember. I bought it used from a friend so I did not have the paperwork on it....
08-12-2018, 11:07 AM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Beyond the false misfires witth a stall converter you MUST make the hi stall converter LOCK UP instantly or quicker o]therwise your trans fluid temps will spike up beyond 240* To help this only tuning will make the converter lock quickly without slipping and excerssive heat This is accoomplished by setting the PWM tables in your TCC lock up to 95 % minimum and 98 % maximum This makes your converter snap quickly to applied and as well to dis engaged
