Notchy shifting?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by 00'Vette
I just got my Vette back from the shop last Thursday and now 1st gear pops out into neutral every now and again. It only pops out when I'm at a stop waiting to go and let off the clutch while in first, but only some times. Do you guys think this mod will eliminate that problem or does this sound like a bigger problem? I have the hurst shifter and was going to put my stock shifter back in to see if that would help.
I was thinking that the shop might have put the shifter back in and it's aligned a bit off so it's poping out of 1st. I very frustrated with this.
I was thinking that the shop might have put the shifter back in and it's aligned a bit off so it's poping out of 1st. I very frustrated with this.
If the shop put the shifter in incorrectly in such a way to affect 1st gear engagement, then 3rd & 5th should be affected as well.
Installing a Hurst does not require any of the bolts that affect the location of the shift box or rod to be touched.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,846
Likes: 5
From: Sandy Ego CA
If this just started after your Hurst was installed I would check the adjustabe stop bolts at the base of the shifter, if these were not adjusted out as far as the can go or taken out completely this may be keeping the shifter from engaging first gear to its ideal location on the indent.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 281
Likes: 7
From: Arlington TN.
I just finished this mod and MAN, what a difference! 
I used 2 washers from Lowes that cost $2.08+tax. They were pretty thick.
Be advised that it requires a 24mm socket so be sure to have one big enough to fit before crawling under the car (like I did, and had to go buy more sockets).
I used 2 washers from Lowes that cost $2.08+tax. They were pretty thick.Be advised that it requires a 24mm socket so be sure to have one big enough to fit before crawling under the car (like I did, and had to go buy more sockets).
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,769
Likes: 147
From: Penfield NY
Originally Posted by FRCTony
Saw this over on the other board:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...etent+shimming
Hope it's not a dupe (I did search).
Anyone here tried it?
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...etent+shimming
Hope it's not a dupe (I did search).
Anyone here tried it?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by C5LOU
I was skeptical when I recieved this aluminum bolt with an o-ring on it for $60, but it's proven to do just what it was promised to do!
Stock shifter has spring preload to assure when going from 2nd to 3rd that going through neutral gate that the preload takes you to 3rd.
There is no preload going from 3,4 to 5,6th on shifter because this detent bolt lays against the right side of detent guide plate.
Doing this mod then would have zero effect on shifting through neutral gate or shifting 1,2,3 or 4th.
It would help if using a 3rd party shifter that has lots of preload already for 5th/6th plus the pressure the detent bolt has against the guide plate.
In any case defending a $60 bolt worth a buck would make you perfect for working for the feds or NASA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by boosted_z06
Proven I do not think so in fact in further looking at this is that detent is strictly used to prevent going into 5th and 6th gear when going for 3rd or fourth.
Stock shifter has spring preload to assure when going from 2nd to 3rd that going through neutral gate that the preload takes you to 3rd.
There is no preload going from 3,4 to 5,6th on shifter because this detent bolt lays against the right side of detent guide plate.
Doing this mod then would have zero effect on shifting through neutral gate or shifting 1,2,3 or 4th.
It would help if using a 3rd party shifter that has lots of preload already for 5th/6th plus the pressure the detent bolt has against the guide plate.
In any case defending a $60 bolt worth a buck would make you perfect for working for the feds or NASA
Stock shifter has spring preload to assure when going from 2nd to 3rd that going through neutral gate that the preload takes you to 3rd.
There is no preload going from 3,4 to 5,6th on shifter because this detent bolt lays against the right side of detent guide plate.
Doing this mod then would have zero effect on shifting through neutral gate or shifting 1,2,3 or 4th.
It would help if using a 3rd party shifter that has lots of preload already for 5th/6th plus the pressure the detent bolt has against the guide plate.
In any case defending a $60 bolt worth a buck would make you perfect for working for the feds or NASA
I'd be curious where you get this info. The side preload on the shifter is controlled by the springs on either side of the shifter. This mod only affects the vertical lever movement.
Perhaps you should try it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 5
From: Plainfield, IL
Boosted_Z06,
yeah not sure what you are talking about. I have had this Anti-Venom shift mod in my FRC for about a week now and not once have had a problem with the going into wrong gears.
The mod works good,although it is a bit pricey it seems for what you are getting. It does get rid of the notchiness although sometimes when pulling it out of 5th and 6th its hard to tell when you are in nuetral. Almost feels a bit sloppy now. Overall I am happy with it
yeah not sure what you are talking about. I have had this Anti-Venom shift mod in my FRC for about a week now and not once have had a problem with the going into wrong gears.
The mod works good,although it is a bit pricey it seems for what you are getting. It does get rid of the notchiness although sometimes when pulling it out of 5th and 6th its hard to tell when you are in nuetral. Almost feels a bit sloppy now. Overall I am happy with it
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 19
From: ME
I might be interested in trying a mildly thick washer, say 1/16" or 1/8" thick. Can someone give me specs on the inside and outside diameters of the washers they used?
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
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Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,769
Likes: 147
From: Penfield NY
In any case defending a $60 bolt worth a buck would make you perfect for working for the feds or NASA [/QUOTE]
I have a Hurst shifter in my car and this mod has made it smoother. That's what I paid for and that's what I got.
Keep your BS personal insults to yourself. That's not what this Forum is for.
[/QUOTE]I have a Hurst shifter in my car and this mod has made it smoother. That's what I paid for and that's what I got.
Keep your BS personal insults to yourself. That's not what this Forum is for.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by servohead
I might be interested in trying a mildly thick washer, say 1/16" or 1/8" thick. Can someone give me specs on the inside and outside diameters of the washers they used?
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
The plunger is fully extended with the bolt out. It's easy to see that more than 3/16" thick will totally eliminate the detent preload. This will duplicate what the bolt pictured above does.
The springs in the shifter have no effect on the vertical lever movement. They control the side preload, so that the shifter self centers.
Either a 15/16" or 24mm socket is needed.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by servohead
I might be interested in trying a mildly thick washer, say 1/16" or 1/8" thick. Can someone give me specs on the inside and outside diameters of the washers they used?
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
Does that stock bolt have a spring built into it to put pressure on the detent guide plate? Or is it just a bolt with a rounded end on it like in the pictures on this thread? If it is a spring loaded thingamajig then I can't see the harm in moving it out a tad with a washer to ease shifter movement. On the other hand, it seems that this mod has the same effect as changing the side to side preload springs in a short shifter... and my Hurst kit did come with different springs.... So why are we modifying the internals of the tranny?????
Simple washer would move that detent rod outward enough to take pressure off the guide.
I agree its all in the shifter setup and mucking with the trannie is not the path I would do after talking to a guy who repairs MN6s every day.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by C5LOU
In any case defending a $60 bolt worth a buck would make you perfect for working for the feds or NASA
Keep your BS personal insults to yourself. That's not what this Forum is for.[/QUOTE]
If you want to pay $60 for a bolt, hell you could have just cut the end of your's off for the price of ZERO.
Don't play GOD when others will not drink the kool-aid.
Just remember to tell the dealer when your in for trannie service about this expensive mod.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by JTS97Z28
Boosted_Z06,
yeah not sure what you are talking about. I have had this Anti-Venom shift mod in my FRC for about a week now and not once have had a problem with the going into wrong gears.
The mod works good,although it is a bit pricey it seems for what you are getting. It does get rid of the notchiness although sometimes when pulling it out of 5th and 6th its hard to tell when you are in nuetral. Almost feels a bit sloppy now. Overall I am happy with it
yeah not sure what you are talking about. I have had this Anti-Venom shift mod in my FRC for about a week now and not once have had a problem with the going into wrong gears.
The mod works good,although it is a bit pricey it seems for what you are getting. It does get rid of the notchiness although sometimes when pulling it out of 5th and 6th its hard to tell when you are in nuetral. Almost feels a bit sloppy now. Overall I am happy with it
The bend over price and it seems not much has been researched what and whys of the guide plate and detent part says other should FIRST simply test using a washer and if going into dealer for trannie warranty work that 60 buck mod better not be in there.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by FRCTony
I'd be curious where you get this info. The side preload on the shifter is controlled by the springs on either side of the shifter. This mod only affects the vertical lever movement.
Perhaps you should try it.
Perhaps you should try it.
Now take 3rd party shifter and see how those are fully left/right preloaded and why those may have problems going to 5/6 rail since detent guide has that pressure against it with the detent rod.
The safer route is the washer for then it backs the bolts out just a bit but still leaves a bit of pressure on guide plate so that it stays straight where the $60 one leaves the plate moving beyond how it was designed.
Shifter handles 1/2 and 3/4 gate, detent handles 5/6 and reverse solenoid handles reverse.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by boosted_z06
There only preload stock shifter is on the left, not the right take a stock shifter out, move it left and let go and it goes back to center for 3/4 but move it far right and it does not jump back.
Now take 3rd party shifter and see how those are fully left/right preloaded and why those may have problems going to 5/6 rail since detent guide has that pressure against it with the detent rod.
The safer route is the washer for then it backs the bolts out just a bit but still leaves a bit of pressure on guide plate so that it stays straight where the $60 one leaves the plate moving beyond how it was designed.
Shifter handles 1/2 and 3/4 gate, detent handles 5/6 and reverse solenoid handles reverse.
Now take 3rd party shifter and see how those are fully left/right preloaded and why those may have problems going to 5/6 rail since detent guide has that pressure against it with the detent rod.
The safer route is the washer for then it backs the bolts out just a bit but still leaves a bit of pressure on guide plate so that it stays straight where the $60 one leaves the plate moving beyond how it was designed.
Shifter handles 1/2 and 3/4 gate, detent handles 5/6 and reverse solenoid handles reverse.
If you don't want to try it, no one is forcing you.
You have not however, presented any evidence that it causes any harm.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by FRCTony
I think we are beating a dead horse here.
If you don't want to try it, no one is forcing you.
You have not however, presented any evidence that it causes any harm.
If you don't want to try it, no one is forcing you.
You have not however, presented any evidence that it causes any harm.
Even more so for those willing to spend $60 for a short bolt.
I doubt playing with this mod for a few days says what trannie is like a year from now.
Ooh I tried this using washers and zero difference in 1 through 4 shifts effort or quality of shifts.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by FRCTony
Do a search and you will find this is not uncommon even with a stock shifter. You need to make sure you are fully in first.
If the shop put the shifter in incorrectly in such a way to affect 1st gear engagement, then 3rd & 5th should be affected as well.
Installing a Hurst does not require any of the bolts that affect the location of the shift box or rod to be touched.
If the shop put the shifter in incorrectly in such a way to affect 1st gear engagement, then 3rd & 5th should be affected as well.
Installing a Hurst does not require any of the bolts that affect the location of the shift box or rod to be touched.
But back to the shifter.......I have had that shifter in for quite a while, the shop replaced my 6th gear syncro cause a tooth was broken off and when I got it back it started happening, then it went back into the shop the day after I got it back for a new rear end and now that I finally have had it back for a while it's scaring me to drive it....... If it is the tranny I hope the shop will fix it for free.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 92
Likes: 5
washer vs antivenom
Anybody heard form c4c5 specialist besides using synthetic atf? That's what he said on teh corvette machanic forum. I just pulled mine today, will put in the washers tomorrow. I too am neervous about poss damage from removing something that Tremec designed in.
I downloaded their t56 service manual today, and can't find anything on troubleshooting notchy shifting, so probably they think it is normal.
And I second the "Keep the BS comments to yourself." This is a forum for sharing ideas, problems, solutions on this second most expensive item most of us own. That's the best thing about these boards, getting sharing of info among lots of owners. So, impress your friends with your clever putdowns, keep it off the boards, please.
I downloaded their t56 service manual today, and can't find anything on troubleshooting notchy shifting, so probably they think it is normal.
And I second the "Keep the BS comments to yourself." This is a forum for sharing ideas, problems, solutions on this second most expensive item most of us own. That's the best thing about these boards, getting sharing of info among lots of owners. So, impress your friends with your clever putdowns, keep it off the boards, please.
