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I recently purchased kook's 3/4 LT's. My heat management strategy is to get them coated. Tuning for power means I have to install wideband bungs in them. I would like to locate these bungs without having to install the headers, locate the bungs, send to coating company and re-install headers I read a thread where a forum member welded some bungs in their headers with 2 WB sensors. If anyone can help me with some previous experience, it would greatly appreciated.
TIA
Noe
These are not Kooks but here is how I place my bungs in my LG headers and you could probably come real close to this with the Kooks. In the first image you see I have the two headers tied together with the factory bracket. I assume Kooks would have this bracket to hook to the factory bracket also. The first two bungs are the factory LG steel bungs. The second ones is the stainless steel ones I added for my WB O2 sensors. If you notice there are also two bungs with plugs on the underside of the headers just in case I need quick access to the exhaust in front of the cats, like on a dyno or something like that. The second photo you can see the angles of the sensors. I'm guessing if your Kooks comes back 4-5" behind the factory bracket then you can set the headers up beside each other and clamp them together and figure out what angle you will need. Just try to lay them down pretty far as there is not a lot of extra room above the pipes and tunnel plate. These are really easy to get a wrench on while the headers are on the car. The wrench will fit right up between the pipe and you can screw the sensor right out.
I just double-checked my new X pipe and davidfarmer's solution is simple and elegant. Is the A/F really the same before and after the cats? If so, no welding REQUIRED!!! This forum rocks.
I don't like putting them right in the middle of the merge-collector like that.... Can't be good for flow.
I would put them in the h-pipe, Just ahead of the cats.
I was thinking the same thing when I first seen these. The front two are the factory LG bungs, and if you notice the right one is dead center of the smallest part of the collector. I can only assume they do this to keep them as close to the front for better O2 performance and probably the cable length as well. Since I'm running 4 factory O2's my cats are up front and slides right on the collectors so they are within 2" of these O2 sensors. I also welded bungs in the front of the X-pipe just after the cats for the factory rear O2 sensors.
I just double-checked my new X pipe and davidfarmer's solution is simple and elegant. Is the A/F really the same before and after the cats? If so, no welding REQUIRED!!! This forum rocks.
If your running cats you really want to have the factory front O2 sensor in front of the cats. If your O2 sensors are behind your cats and your cats are working good the PCM is going to be unhappy with the O2 sensor performance and start setting codes. The PCM will make a fuel change then watch for the results at the O2 sensors, then depending on the results it seen make another fuel change. If the PCM sees lean it will richen the mix and watch for the O2 to show rich, then it will lean the mix and watch for a lean and do the same process again and again. It does this many times per second. The faster the O2 sensors respond the flatter and smoother the AFR line will be but it will always be a little jagged line crossing from above to below 14.7. If your cats are in front of the O2 sensors they will still see this change but it will be buffered/delayed and smoothed by the cats. Specially at lower RPMs like cruse speed which unfortunately is exactly where the PCM is trying to use the signals from the cats. If the O2 signals are not switching fast enought the PCM will set codes because it is going to have trouble keeping the fuel mix correct and think the O2 sensors are bad and then set codes.
If you have no cats then you can put them about any where you want, but closer you can get them to the front the better.
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