Climate control won't change vents
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Climate control won't change vents
The air blows out a little from all the vents at the same time. If you put it on Defrost, or vent or floor it changes on the screen but it still continues to blow out a little from all the vents. I haven't noticed really since I haven't had the car long, but today it was hot and the A/C doesn't do much good with 30% coming out the defrost. Any ideas?
#3
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You have lost the VACUUM CONTROL signal that the HVAC System uses to change the vent door positions. It comes off the back of the intake manifold through a small black nylon vacuum line, through the wiring harnesses and down to the passengers fender well. There it goes into a black plastic vacuum reservoir and then it goes through some Ts and a check valve to the A.I.R. System control valve and to the HVAC Controller.
Its TOUGH to see the fitting on the back of the manifold and almost IMPOSSIBLE to touch it! Hopefully that isn't the issue. The other possibility is your battery leaked acid and the acid ate up the nylon lines. Thats a BAD thing $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Check those vacuum lines.
Bill
Its TOUGH to see the fitting on the back of the manifold and almost IMPOSSIBLE to touch it! Hopefully that isn't the issue. The other possibility is your battery leaked acid and the acid ate up the nylon lines. Thats a BAD thing $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Check those vacuum lines.
Bill
#5
Team Owner
The air blows out a little from all the vents at the same time. If you put it on Defrost, or vent or floor it changes on the screen but it still continues to blow out a little from all the vents. I haven't noticed really since I haven't had the car long, but today it was hot and the A/C doesn't do much good with 30% coming out the defrost. Any ideas?
It will need to be replaced, but I do suggest that you follow Bills advice and first check the Vacuum lines to make sure it is not those!
Pull the codes and it'll tell what you will be looking for!
More than likely it'll be a B0441 code I believe, with perhaps another one or two codes beginning with the B0****.
let us know what you get
Thanks,Matt
#6
Drifting
same problem here...but are the actuator not electric??I hear then opening and closing when i reset the codes....does the car need to be running to switch vents???Could someone try this ....try changing which vevt the air goes to with the car not running
#7
Are all lights on your climate control working these units go bad offen.If the vac lines are disconnected you would easily here air coming from the behind the intake manifold.Or under the battery,as acid may have eatting away the vac lines.
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
There are TWO active controlling systems in the HVAC Air Box. One of them is electric and is responsible for controlling the air temperature. There are two controllers if you have duel climate control and they look like this: (square/triangle thing)
When you reset the codes, those are the things that you hear cycling through their full ranges.
Heres what the insides look like:
The round cylinder with the brightly colored lines are the vacuum actuators that change the VENT positions ( defrost, upper vents, lower vents ect...)
The vacuum for the system comes from the back of the intake manifold through a very small nylon air line:
Here is what the 90 degree rubber nipple and line look like at the back of the manifold:
From there it runs through wiring harnesses and down into the passengers fender into the Vacuum reservoir:
The reservoir supplies vacuum for TWO things:
The A.I.R. Pump.
Th HVAC Vent door actuators.
If you disconnect the line from the intake manifold the leak is small enough that it wont make a lot of noise or effect the engine much.
You can check that connection with a mirror and a flashlight.
When you switch VENT positions, you can hear the vacuum bleeding off different actuators and pulling on the ones selected. The actuators are fairly large and the reservoir is small. The engine needs to be running to operate the vent controllers more than one or two positions.
BC
When you reset the codes, those are the things that you hear cycling through their full ranges.
Heres what the insides look like:
The round cylinder with the brightly colored lines are the vacuum actuators that change the VENT positions ( defrost, upper vents, lower vents ect...)
The vacuum for the system comes from the back of the intake manifold through a very small nylon air line:
Here is what the 90 degree rubber nipple and line look like at the back of the manifold:
From there it runs through wiring harnesses and down into the passengers fender into the Vacuum reservoir:
The reservoir supplies vacuum for TWO things:
The A.I.R. Pump.
Th HVAC Vent door actuators.
If you disconnect the line from the intake manifold the leak is small enough that it wont make a lot of noise or effect the engine much.
You can check that connection with a mirror and a flashlight.
When you switch VENT positions, you can hear the vacuum bleeding off different actuators and pulling on the ones selected. The actuators are fairly large and the reservoir is small. The engine needs to be running to operate the vent controllers more than one or two positions.
BC
#9
Drifting
never had acid problem on my car ...luck i guess....dont know what to try next....i am on my second dual hvac controller with the same problems
Last edited by c5mtl; 03-16-2008 at 05:16 PM.
#10
I changed out my wheel speed sensors at the tune of $550 for new ones (my own time in labor), and that didn't solve my tcs problem.... As a matter of fact I can't do anything to solve that problem, I just learned to drive w/o abs or tcs and I'm a hell of a lot better for it......
But I sure would be faster with abs......
Point is, the module probably wont be the problem, it's the bs wireing and connectors......
you can change the parts all day long but if a harness somewhere say in the door is bad it f's the whole works......
I'm gutting my electrical system and running all my own home runs with GOOD copper wires that have more than 3 strands (32 gauge )when I put in a roll cage and take out the bose system.
Always props to Mr. Bill, the vacuum line thing is a good probability.....
But I sure would be faster with abs......
Point is, the module probably wont be the problem, it's the bs wireing and connectors......
you can change the parts all day long but if a harness somewhere say in the door is bad it f's the whole works......
I'm gutting my electrical system and running all my own home runs with GOOD copper wires that have more than 3 strands (32 gauge )when I put in a roll cage and take out the bose system.
Always props to Mr. Bill, the vacuum line thing is a good probability.....
#11
Drifting
does anybody have wiring schematics for the harness that plugs into the hvac controller....trying to figure out if thier is more than 1 wire for the immumination....i found 2 yellow wires one is for the dimmer the other i dont know
#15
had mine fixed yesterday. had to replace the vacuum lines under the battery (corroded) and replace the vacuum line to the back of intake manifold (pinched)
works awesome now
~ nick
works awesome now
~ nick
The following users liked this post:
SpeedRacerMach (05-20-2019)
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
I checked the line on the back of the intake and it was fine, but when I removed the battery I didn't see any lines under there, do I need to remove the battery tray also? Got any pics?
#17
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Have you checked the lines at the vacuum resivour to see if you have vacuum to that point. Maybe the line is good and loose at the fittings there in the fender well.
Theres a fender access in the fender well...
#20
Melting Slicks