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I'm not following this. If you tighten the rockers, the preload is set by pushrod length. There is no rocker adjustment. What length pushrods do you have? What is the cam?
I'm not following this. If you tighten the rockers, the preload is set by pushrod length. There is no rocker adjustment. What length pushrods do you have? What is the cam?
i asked him that,he claims the pushrods are ok.but i hear what you are saying,i'm thinking about it now,you're right,i'm thinking about the old style rocker stud/nut theory.he must have pushrods that are too long and he has the lifters buried.
I'm going to take the valve covers off and check what you said.I did line dot to dot,I'm pretty sure the cam is 180 out. I'll be back later and let you know.Thanks................Paul
With #1 cylinder at TDC, crank dot at 12, cam dot a 6. Simple as that.
With #1 cylinder at TDC, crank dot at 12, cam dot a 6. Simple as that.
are you sure[not trying to be wise]? everything that i've looked at shows dot to dot as #6 firing.just curious as i've never had one of the ls motors apart. i know the older motors were that way too.
are you sure[not trying to be wise]? everything that i've looked at shows dot to dot as #6 firing.just curious as i've never had one of the ls motors apart. i know the older motors were that way too.
It doesn't matter. If the crank is at 12 o'clock, the cam can either be at 6 or 12 o'clock. On an LS1, it won't matter as long is he isn't off a tooth on the timing chain. On the older motors it did, because it would throw off the distributor.
Let me make sure of something first. #1 piston is drivers side,close to the radiator? If thats it ,I put #1 piston up TDC and #6 exhaust was opening,according To Dpd the intake should open,So Am I 180 out? I did a compression check and it held compression,I left the gauge there for a few minutes and it held.If the pushrods are to long wouldn't it lose air? I have stock length pushrods.
Cam can't be "180 degrees out"; remember the cam rotates at 1/2 of crank RPM.
Also, assuming a higher-lift cam than stock (or course), the stock PR's might be too short, but never too long (unless these heads you've installed are milled quite a bit), so no way the valves are hanging open.
This isn't something silly like installing a cam that lacks a positioning nub, right? Did you follow the LS1 tech instructions to the letter?
You probably have a bad connection on one of the connectors you removed. Here's another tip; no need to unplug anything to crank w/o the injectors depositing fuel. Just hold the pedal all the way down (100% TP), and the PCM goes into "anti-flood" mode, just for this purpose.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Feb 11, 2006 at 05:28 PM.
#1 is on the left closest to the radiator.with #1 firing,#6 is on the exhaust stroke[exhaust valve is moving to close and the intake is moving to open].
#1 is on the left closest to the radiator.with #1 firing,#6 is on the exhaust stroke[exhaust valve is moving to close and the intake is moving to open].
OK then I think the cam is 180 out if thats possible,because the #6 exhaust was opening.#6 would be passenger side 2nd one in from rad?
OK then I think the cam is 180 out if thats possible,because the #6 exhaust was opening.#6 would be passenger side 2nd one in from rad?
no,that's 4.left bank is 1-3-5-7.right bank is 2-4-6-8.you can't be out on the cam,like i said it doesn't matter.let me ask you this.did you pull out the cam sensor when you did the swap? your rockers are on a shaft.i was thinking of the older chevy motors[shame on me] with the rocker studs.the only things i can think of are:the pushrods are too long[if your running alot of lift],something is off or loose[ground wire,harness,etc].
do you have any faults??
are the injectors plugged in right? they HAVE to go back to the right cylinders[sequential fuel injection]
no,that's 4.left bank is 1-3-5-7.right bank is 2-4-6-8.you can't be out on the cam,like i said it doesn't matter.let me ask you this.did you pull out the cam sensor when you did the swap? your rockers are on a shaft.i was thinking of the older chevy motors[shame on me] with the rocker studs.the only things i can think of are:the pushrods are too long[if your running alot of lift],something is off or loose[ground wire,harness,etc].
do you have any faults??
No i didn't pull the cam sensor out,BUT I get jackass of the day award,When I said I did a compression check,I forgot the hose has a valve core so air can't escape DUH!!! So I might run up tp Sears or Auto zone and see if they have a leak down tester. Everything is plug in,ground wires on.But I'll check again.
No i didn't pull the cam sensor out,BUT I get jackass of the day award,When I said I did a compression check,I forgot the hose has a valve core so air can't escape DUH!!! So I might run up tp Sears or Auto zone and see if they have a leak down tester. Everything is plug in,ground wires on.But I'll check again.
stop.you may have hit the cam sensor when you swapped the cams.see if you have a fault for it first.recheck the injector plugs to make sure they are plugged in right[1/1-2/2-etc]they are labeled
stop.you may have hit the cam sensor when you swapped the cams.see if you have a fault for it first.recheck the injector plugs to make sure they are plugged in right[1/1-2/2-etc]they are labeled
Should I pull it out and reinstall it?.There were no codes for that,If thats what you mean.When I did a compression check and if the valves were hung open alittle,I wouldn't get very much comp.Right.But I got over 180psi on every cylinder.
Last edited by DRIVER456; Feb 11, 2006 at 06:30 PM.
Should I pull it out and reinstall it?.There were no codes for that,If thats what you mean.When I did a compression check and if the valves were hung open alittle,I wouldn't get very much comp.Right.But I got over 180psi on every cylinder.
how did you do your compression test? you should have a fault if the cam sensor got hit,but to check it,you have to pull the intake.
there's something out there that you touched that's not right.it's just figuring out what it is.i will tell you this.if you are washing cylinders out with fuel,there's no way you can have that high of compression.if the cylinders get washed out with fuel,sometimes your lucky if you get 50-60 pounds.
Sorry about your problems. I once did a head and cam swap and this car would also not start. The valves were hanging open. Here are some suggestion
1. Valves hung open(did you use morel lifters or milled heads?)
2. forgot to connect the ground on the back of heads
3. Do you have spark?
4. Timing chain set up wrong
Sorry about your problems. I once did a head and cam swap and this car would also not start. The valves were hanging open. Here are some suggestion
1. Valves hung open(did you use morel lifters or milled heads?)
2. forgot to connect the ground on the back of heads
3. Do you have spark?
4. Timing chain set up wrong
I know the drivers side head has a ground,thats hooked up,Does the pass. side have one?I have spark,timing chain is OK,I'm thinking of doing a leak down,But I would have to go buy the leak down kit.I have stock lifters.
Just curious since I'm considering a change. What heads and cam did you use. Typically when doing a cam change you would change lifters and pushrods as well. I wish you luck. I know how frustrating it can be. Please keep us posted.