Is it possible to remove the rear diff and trans WITHOUT dropping the torque tube?
03-16-2006, 12:46 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Is it possible to remove the rear diff and trans WITHOUT dropping the torque tube?
Hey guys, I need to drop my diff out, I'm trading it as a core for a 3.90 rear with hardened output shafts. Then, I need to take my transmission out and send it to D&D for viperization. THEN I will be dropping the torque tube to swap in my LS7 clutch and new hydraulics. I want to know if these can be taken out separately, and most importantly installed separately. Trans and Diff coming out together is no big deal but I do want to do the trans and torque tube separate, I read the clutch change how to over and over again
http://fear.net/~dope/c5_clutch_install_pics.html
and I gotta admit, re-installing that assembly as one unit does not look like fun. I have to do this all alone, so thats why I want to do it that way. I understand it may take alot longer in the long run, but it doesnt matter to me. I dont want to risk F'ing something up trying to maneuver that giant assembly around. So if anyone has any tips or pointers, I'm starting this tomorrow morning. Thanks guys!
http://fear.net/~dope/c5_clutch_install_pics.html
and I gotta admit, re-installing that assembly as one unit does not look like fun. I have to do this all alone, so thats why I want to do it that way. I understand it may take alot longer in the long run, but it doesnt matter to me. I dont want to risk F'ing something up trying to maneuver that giant assembly around. So if anyone has any tips or pointers, I'm starting this tomorrow morning. Thanks guys!
03-16-2006, 08:27 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Farmington CT
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yes sir, ck out www.cajundude.com there is also a link to Mike Mercury's page
post in your regional section, you might find some locals that would be willing to help/advise
post in your regional section, you might find some locals that would be willing to help/advise
Last edited by SteveDoten; 03-17-2006 at 08:37 PM.
03-16-2006, 09:43 AM
#5
Former Vendor
"D&D for viperization" they use this term very loosely. The usage of Viper components(the actual ones that are different than a C5)in your unit would be a downgrade. The one main Viper piece that is stronger is the mainshaft (30 spline vs. C5 27 spline) and it will not adapt to a C5 transmission because of the internal spline of the pinion gear in the differential. Now if you mentioned doing a 9310 mainshaft,Cryo-tempering,billet keys,compressed carbon particle blocking rings, bronze shift fork pads,iron 3-4 fork,modified 1-2 fork,complete micro-polish,blueprinting,etc..... Then you are talking my talk. 
. Done 5 of them
03-17-2006, 09:45 PM
#8
Former Vendor
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We find it best to remove the trans/diff as an assembly and then remove/reinstall the torque tube separately. If you are just pulling the diff, you can do that alone as well.
It is much easier to line up the torque tube and carefully insert into the pilot bearing without the heavy trans/diff hanging from it. You MUST align the clutch disc first and then very carefully insert the torque tube input shaft, or you will destroy the pilot bearing and get to do it all over again. DO NOT use the bolts to "pull" the input shaft into the clutch, it must go in freely without much force.
It is much easier to line up the torque tube and carefully insert into the pilot bearing without the heavy trans/diff hanging from it. You MUST align the clutch disc first and then very carefully insert the torque tube input shaft, or you will destroy the pilot bearing and get to do it all over again. DO NOT use the bolts to "pull" the input shaft into the clutch, it must go in freely without much force.
03-17-2006, 11:43 PM
#9
Drifting
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Originally Posted by ATI Performance
We find it best to remove the trans/diff as an assembly and then remove/reinstall the torque tube separately. If you are just pulling the diff, you can do that alone as well.
It is much easier to line up the torque tube and carefully insert into the pilot bearing without the heavy trans/diff hanging from it. You MUST align the clutch disc first and then very carefully insert the torque tube input shaft, or you will destroy the pilot bearing and get to do it all over again. DO NOT use the bolts to "pull" the input shaft into the clutch, it must go in freely without much force.
It is much easier to line up the torque tube and carefully insert into the pilot bearing without the heavy trans/diff hanging from it. You MUST align the clutch disc first and then very carefully insert the torque tube input shaft, or you will destroy the pilot bearing and get to do it all over again. DO NOT use the bolts to "pull" the input shaft into the clutch, it must go in freely without much force.
great info right there! will be using this method tom. night! hopefully it will work out much better!!
09-01-2016, 04:00 PM
#11
I know this is super old. came up while searching. but does anyone have a link to this process that works. the one posted is dead. I'm stuck at the point disconnecting the shift linkage between the TT and trans, and looking for suggestions.
09-01-2016, 04:26 PM
#12
Drifting
Why not unbolt the shift linkage at the shifter from inside the car?
09-01-2016, 05:10 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
09-02-2016, 11:50 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Wow, this is old. I ended up getting a transmission jack and removing the torque tube as well, it wasn't that bad. I've done it several times since then. Still have the same car, getting ready to do it again over the winter. Going to go absolutely crazy.
Last edited by Mike94ZLT1; 09-02-2016 at 11:52 AM.
