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Honker install - minor issue

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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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Default Honker install - minor issue

I bought a used Honker off of a forum member to replace the new Vararam I had purchased and could not make fit well enough to satisfy me.

First off, this thing is smooth as silk to install and if it produces results like the Vararam trust me its the way to go.

My problem is minor and I assume I did something small wrong. When I go to fit the airlid it won't go over the guide tabs at the bottom. There are 2 studs sticking out in front of the airlid and no amount of pushing will get it past them.

Here are some pics:






Any quick suggestions?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Those are the studs you had to remove in order to make the vararam fit properly. Could be why both units don't fit.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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I never got that far with the Vararam install. I did remove a fog light and had to drill out the rivets for my screens.

I was looking at a substantial amount of work all the while reading about how poor the fit was, how things did not line up, etc.

I heard it was a decent unit once it was put together but I wasn't interested in jacking around with it for that long.

Time is short and I did not realize that you eliminated the airbridge with the Honker, since mine is CF it ate up the cost difference between the two.

Callaway does charge quite a bit for the unit but I can say they would justify it better if they had better pictures and explained the package more clearly.

I was going to remove those studs but wanted to be sure before I did. The install was a breeze and I can see once the studs are gone swapping filters and maintainance will be also.

I just didn't see that with the Vararam although it may perform as well, or better.

Thanks for the help, the Dremel and I have a date
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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If you remove the cover on the honker you might be able to get a vise grip on those studs. Good Luck
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Just installed the Vararam on my 2003 this weekend, I agree it is a bitch and the craftsmanship is a little less than what I expect for a piece that sells for over 300 bucks. Those studs remove quit easily, I forgot to take mine out when I installed the Vararam also, used a set of vise grips needle nose they come right out.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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Thanks for the tips, they'll be coming out shortly!
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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They have a torx star cut into them. I belive it's a torx 25, but I can't remember.

Eric, I tried to respond to your PM, but your box is full...

Yes, you have to remove those studs by unscrewing them.

If that's the only hold-up then you are almost done.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
...
First off, this thing is smooth as silk to install and if it produces results like the Vararam trust me its the way to go.
...

uh, Yeah... If somebody has already cut the shroud and mounted the filter housing to it...



- glad you're happy with it. Once you unscrew the studs everything should fall right into place for you.

Last edited by Fozzy_Bear; Apr 10, 2006 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
...
Time is short and I did not realize that you eliminated the airbridge with the Honker, since mine is CF it ate up the cost difference between the two.
...
Yeah, but it's easy to sell those here on the forum.

By The Way:

How was the final packaging? Was it "professionally packaged"?

.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Those can be removed with a pair of pliers. No need for a torx. Just grab them and they will twist with a pair of pliers.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
I bought a used Honker off of a forum member to replace the new Vararam I had purchased and could not make fit well enough to satisfy me.

First off, this thing is smooth as silk to install and if it produces results like the Vararam trust me its the way to go.

My problem is minor and I assume I did something small wrong. When I go to fit the airlid it won't go over the guide tabs at the bottom. There are 2 studs sticking out in front of the airlid and no amount of pushing will get it past them.

Any quick suggestions?
Page three of the instructions asks you to remove these studs:
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mcv
Page three of the instructions asks you to remove these studs:
Mike,
Eric is installing a unit that was originally bought for a 01-04 onto a 2000 corvette. Since you have been nice enough to speak up, do you have any input on poossible pitfalls he might encounter.

Or, more specificly, is drilling a 5/8" hole for his sensor the only thing he needs to do, or is there something less-than-obvious that he should look out for?

I figured I'd ask in public since "Honker" and "issue" are in the title of this thread, and a lot of people who search for similar information may come across this later.

thanks.


.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Fozzy_Bear
Mike,
Eric is installing a unit that was originally bought for a 01-04 onto a 2000 corvette. Since you have been nice enough to speak up, do you have any input on possible pitfalls he might encounter.

Or, more specifically, is drilling a 5/8" hole for his sensor the only thing he needs to do, or is there something less-than-obvious that he should look out for?

I figured I'd ask in public since "Honker" and "issue" are in the title of this thread, and a lot of people who search for similar information may come across this later.

thanks.
I spoke with Eric on the phone today. Nothing major is required to install 1997-2000 Honker in 2001-2004 car or 2001-2004 Honker in 1997-2000 car.

The only difference in the components is that the early Honker uses smaller diameter bellows and coupler and associated clamps than the later Honker in order to accommodate the early car's smaller diameter MAF sensor.

I gave Eric the part numbers for the parts he'd need to use the 2001-2004 Honker on his 2000 Corvette. Anyone else that needs to make the change can either call us directly (860-434-9002) or call his local Callaway dealer to purchase the required parts. I'm not at work now, but I think the cost for bellows, coupler and stainless clamps is under $50.00.

Regarding the 5/8" hole, if you use the properly-sized coupler for the 1997-2000 application, it already includes the hole in the proper location for the IAT sensor so you don't have to drill any holes. We strongly recommend that you use the proper bellows and coupler in order to avoid air leaks and the consequent DTC's.

Thanks for asking. Hope this helps.
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