First question: I cleared my codes about 5 months ago and on Saturday went back to check them and found absolutely no codes at all. Is this normal?

Second question: If you are running lean and having problems with pinging or knock retard, will you get codes on the DIC to let you know? What about running too rich?

I ask because I have recently been playing around with MAFT settings and can't consistently check my changes with Autotap. Maybe I should just go back to my stock MAF and remove the MAFT. Any help or comments would be appreciated.

 

I had pinging at WOT over 4k rpm. Tried decarbonization, SMH PCV, back to screen in MAF, TR55 plugs, 172 stat with 175 fan controller. Still had pinging.

I'm happy to say I found something that cured my pinging.

MORE OCTANE.

I run 2 1\2 gallons of unleaded 110 Octane(Blue Fuel)with every tank.

My car now flat out runs strong with not even the slightest detonation.

Bottom Line. The 92 octane fuel around these parts does not cut it with the Z06.

 

arizona z06,

depending on your performance mods, what did you gap your plugs at? i had a problem when i first put in the TR-55's and was getting 4 to 5 degrees of knock. i re-gapped after talking to ngk and now i am not getting any knock.

 

Gapped at .50 on the TR 55's. What did you gap at? With the heat we have out west and our questionable fuel mixtures, it's a fine line we walk on. Believe me, the difference 3 or 4 Octane makes is substancial. Zona

 

I'm curious as to the original question - will we get codes if the engine detects pinging?

F

 

This whole ping/knock issue is way out of hand.
In people attempting to better performance, now add this real crappy new smog gas people have to beware what is going on in their engine.

Since Ca started using this junk gas I have been testing and tuning and what a fricking mess.

Knock is one issue but to make it worse is Type A errors such as multi misfires are being triggered.

Some people try to solve these issues with fooling the PCM with a phony IAT with a contant resistor value, this is not a fix for all possible mods an engine may have.
Others do it by using a thermostat with a lower opening temp value.

The big problem with a lot of this is these engines were designed to mandates, of CARB, SAE, EPA.
All forcing nameplates to have monitors (PCM functions) to watchdog and flag what you've done so that smog stations can tell what your up to in messing with those state and federal mandates.

When the engine is started it goes though some test modes and warmup cycles. An example is to have DTC cleared, the engine has to go through 3 trips and warmup cycles.
A valid trip ( assuming your PCM code has not been mucked with for these mandatory FTP ( federal tests) ) is engine started and is not valid until the water temp has gone from 160 to 200 degrees.
If the thermostat is lowered, the engine never meets the 200 ( or rarely does) degrees and thus the DTC never gets to the 3 valid trips ( or takes much more time to get to 3 valid trips) to be cleared out correctly.

This was one way the smog pigs plotted to catch you been a bad boy, for smog station now have to test for DTCs, and can tell if your engine has not been following their rules and also if you dump the battery to try and hide your tracks, certain tests PCM runs then will show an incomplete and again you are caught.
One test is called the I/M, it takes several trips before they are completed, so again if you blow the PCM's Keep Alive Memory (KOM) out, the tests and conditions for errors have to start all over again to meet the proper trip cycles.

Here is a real example of a report of a I/M test and if I had gone to a smog station they would have seen the incompletes and fail me without ever doing the smog tests.



This was reported by the Ease powertain Scanner and shows why you want a real scanner that does tests like this and complies with the standards set forth for OBD-II compliant scanners.

As a member of SAE, I have been reading all the standard documents and there is a lot to know about what the smog pigs have done to catch us changing functions beyond what they dictate of our engines performance.

John

 

Matt,
Hey, if you need any help with anything, let me know. I also have the shop manuals for my '99 if they can be any assiatance. We need to get this fixed, we have the RT66 show approaching in October...... :jester

Dave

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. Still have a question though. Will the detection of knock retard or pinging come up as a code? I ask because I don't have consistent use of Autotap and therefore can't really say if I am having a problem.

David, the RT66 show is DEFINITE. I'll let you know if I need those shop manuals. :yesnod: Planning any more mods to the car Dave? Let me know. I'll be off work from Wednesday through Monday. Got some Zaino claybar and will be doing the works on Wednesday. Also, planning on changing out the transmission and differential fluid with Redline on Thursday. :chevy

 

to answer your question i went with .45 based on my mods recommended by ngk. to answer your question, i don't think you could throw enough knock to set a code. at that point i think you will find a missing cyclinder or spark condition. 6 to 8 degrees i don't think will do it