Opinions wanted!

 

I have the SW longtubes. They fit good, look good and give me good flow for additional horsepower. And the price was decent too. I guess you could pay much more but not get a whole lot more.....unless, money is no obstacle. I give them a

 

Dynatechs have longer primaries which will result in more torque.

 

I run Dynatechs. It's a high quality very complete system with hi-flow cats and X-pipe. Fit and finish is excellent. Check my sig for additional mods.

 

I run Stainless Works on two cars and have been very satisfied with them, no problems, leaks nor cracks to date.

 

I run stainless works and they are excellent. Regardless of what other folks tell you, there is very little difference in all the headers on the market as it relates to power and torque. The tune after install of headers is the key.

 

 

Yes sir, I made a similar post in a thread a month or so back about how just about every longtube on the market would make the same power with the same size primaries etc.

I am more concerened with fit, finish, lasting and other opinions.

Thanks guys for all the help keep it coming!

 

Talk with the racers, they will tell you these headers hold up. I had a 1 3/4 pair for over two years with no problems, no rust, no cracking etc. I now have the 1 7/8 on my 427 and they are just as good! They have been around a long time and make a quality product. You just do not see a lot of folks put them on as they do not advertise a great deal. One of the most simple installs you will see.

 

One of the biggest things I look for on header design is the type of collectors they use. Most of the normal header company's that have been in the business for years, like to cut corners and use the cheaper style lower flow collectors... Basically all the tubes are cut straight off at the end of the primaries before going into the collector. I'm not a fan of those because the air has no direction after the primaries, and can go any which way it wants. Nicer headers will have a "scavenger spike" inside the collector between the 4 primaries. This helps direct the air flow to the center of the collector... getting it out of the header with the least amount of restriction possible. Here's a cut away view of this scavenger spike I am talking about...



Then we have the collector itself. This is what a traditional collector looks like...



This is the kind of collector you'll see on a good quality header like American Racing, or LG. It's a merge collector that shrinks down right after the primaries then goes back up to the size of your exhaust, essentially speeding up the air flow in the exhaust, and in turn causing your car to make more power.



This is just my experience from what I've seen in making headers. Another thing we could go into is coatings, and how much I dislike them on headers Ceramic coated headers always seem to cause detonation. Why? Well everybody jumps on this bandwagon of wanting to keep underhood temps down. Which is great, I love it, whatever you can do to keep underhood temps down is going to help make the motor produce more power. But what we're doing by ceramic coating the headers is we are locking that heat inside the exhaust... Not allowing it to dissipate... This heat now acts as an agent in producing detonation. Almost every car I've ever tuned that had ceramic coated headers, was not able to take as much ignition timing as a car with uncoated stainless steel headers. So the power was greatly reduced because instead of tuning for all out power, I had to tune for detonation. Extra fuel, and less timing... Things that have a great effect on what kinds numbers your car will put down on the dyno, and at the track.


Chuck @ HPE
281-448-1300

 

VERY interesting discussion in general, and especially interesting point regarding the coatings.

 

Interesting... this may be a deterrent for drag racing... but for those of us who run HPDE's and run the car near WOT and near redline for 30 min sessions keeping heat out of hte engine bay is very helpful.

Most LT headers run very close to the clutch lines and really heat the fluid... even with mine wrapped w/ DEI heat tape I still have to flush the clutch often.

I'd think a coated header would simply move the heat down stream and further down the exhaust.

 

i like my dynatechs!!!!

 

 

 

EXCELLENT fit finish and trim with my stainless works system!

NO issues at all!







BC

 

I had a little fit issue with my pass. side SW header. The collector was a tad too far to the pass. side causing the x pipe to barely touch the heat sheild making a rattle. Also caused the foward pass. side o2 sensor to be barely touching the tunnel.
The guys at Extreme did some mild re-adjusting for me with a long bar and tac welding.
I probably should complain to SW and get a new right header. Except that means me re-metal finishing a new header. Grinding off the SW badge, cutting off the unnecessary/unused dipstick mount and Jet-Hot coating the new header. Not to mention getting under there and installing the new one!

 

Love my Dynatech 's too

 

 

Dynatechs here and couldn't be happier.