Hunnicuttz

I just have a standard radio shack soldering iron and some people say they used a cold heat iron. What is the best way to solder this? I dont want to mess it up!

Genocid

It's really personal preference, if you're used to a standard iron & can use it without overheating the board or components then go for it.

If you're like me and not a soldering expert, or haven't done it for a long time I think the cold heat style is a good way to go.

I also agree with the other statements for people that have not soldered anything ever before, don't start with this. Have an experienced friend help or pay the $35 (+ core refund) from the previously linked supporting vendor to do it for you. Especially since you'll probably have to buy the gun anyway

Glad to hear so many people have fixed their units, I had no idea there were really that many people with this problem! Good work all

Hunnicuttz

i went to radio shack and go the switchable 15watt and 30watt soldering iron and kept it on 15watt and it worked great! now my display is like new, Thanks!!!!

bburn

Another newbie here! Did the fix early this morning and it worked like a charm! I disassembled, soldered, put everything back together and ate a bowl of cereal all in less than 1 hr. Temp display is very bright now. I found this fix very easy due not to my skills but to the generous time and info given by the members of this awesome forum. I look forward to learning a lot more in the near future!

Thanks!!!

Mister MAGoo

I did this on my 98 this afternoon - the display is fixed but now the blower motor speed control is all dicked up. I have zero control over the blower speed, and it just goes up and down at random.

I didn't know about disconnecting the battery cable before removing this thing and I just saw the schematic where the blower motor speed control switch is directly linked to battery power.

Any advice on how to "reset" the system or fix this issue? Thanks.

red97vette

awesome!

Genocid

If it were me I'd send the unit in to the previously mentioned form vendor that rebuilds them if a simple unplug the battery -> unplug the unit -> reconnect the unit -> reconnect the battery doesnt do the trick.

mickey_7106

would i be able to re-use the LED/bulbs from my stock radio for the HVAC unit? that radio has been sitting for years in my attic. plus that wayi will have the correct parts

tstar

You could give a try, typically I've found you have to replace all the bulbs at once with new ones though. For some reason they start popping like popcorn if you don't. Not literally... they burn out quickly though.

Tim

bobthetomato

Fixed my ac unit with your help. Thanks for taking the time to document it. Took about an hour, start to finish. I used a simple old small soldering pencil (~$8 at Radio Shack if you need to buy one). Tip gets hot and stays hot, just don't touch it. Thanks again.

FASST LN

This fixed my HVAC display as well.
Thanks!!

Quil

I fixed mine as well this weekend. Sweet relief! Great writeup.

T_Terrazo

Wow...never would have believed it was this simple. Worked on my 2004 today!

Genocid

Well glad this is still helpful.

Thanks to everyone that did the origional leg work I gathered all the information from, and thank you all for your kind comments.

I don't think I'll be checking back on here anymore as I've sold my car since I have an order in for a new '10 SS Camaro. There are a lot of people far more knowledgeable than me on here, I've had a good time with this great crew.

Thank for all the fish!

tstar

Hey you started this mess!

Besides you'll always be a Vetter at heart, pop in every now and again and say Hi!

Tim

rockinSeat

Hi All, my display went dim for a couple of days and then completely dark. I had a friend who is good with electronics reheat the 8 241 resistors with an SMD. He said he checked the connections afterward with a multimeter and they all looked good, so I was kind of surprised when I plugged the unit back in and the display was still dark.

Are there any other components that could likely be the problem? Does anyone have a schematic for the board? Or any other ideas?

Thanks,
Sean

tstar

No it's the resisitors... Do you know how he reheated them? Have him look at it again and this time bench test it first by applying a ground on pin one and 12 volts at 5, 12 and 16. When the unit is powered, have him push down on the resistors and I bet you the display comes back...

Tim

Bill Curlee

I saw my first 2010 Camaro last Saturday. I know you will be back. Most likely in the C5, C6 or C7 section. Theres no way a Camaro can make your paulse race like a Vette!

We will miss you! (until you return!)

Bill Curlee

rockinSeat

Thanks for the quick reply Tim - I can't wait to try the fix again. On the back of the box where the pins come through, I see two rows: C & D, and the outer columns are marked 1-16; so i assume pins 1, 5, 12, & 16 are in row C and the column markings are correct?

One more question - it appears my display board with the buttons is just sitting in the front plastic panel, is it supposed to be screwed down like the power board is screwed into the rear plastic panel?

Thanks so much,
Sean

MagRedConv

Add me to the list. I've been meaning to do this for a year now!