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I would have gone with the 112, but I have read so many stories even some from Lou/Louis that with the 112 you'd have to flycut the pistons. Which is why I went with the 114 instead. Plus your power band comes on quicker
I did a head/cam swap last Nov. I put in a 228/232 .588/.595 111+1. It had a nice sounding idle but really shook the car hard at idle. I left it in for about a month. I took it out and put in a 224/228 .581/.588 114+2. The new cam drives so much better than the 1st one did. It still shakes a little bit, but nothing like the 1st one did. You can still tell that there is a cam in the car with the new cam. I can drive the new cam down around 1000 rpm in any gear without surging or bucking. I don't feel like I lost a lot of hp. I am more than willing to give up a few hp for a better driving car.
I would have gone with the 112, but I have read so many stories even some from Lou/Louis that with the 112 you'd have to flycut the pistons. Which is why I went with the 114 instead. Plus your power band comes on quicker
From Anthony at LG:
Personally unless the cars are side by side, I can't tell the difference in idle. The 112 will make it's peak power numbers 500 rpm lower in the power band but they both should make the same power.
There is no reason you should have to worry about putting anything in neutral at a light as long as the car is tuned right and it has the correct stall (if it's an auto car).
If you don't mind the idle....a 112 would make it's peak more in the streetable rpm range.