redrckt97

after months of worrying over a ticking sound in my 97 - which got louder lately, I replaced the header gaskets last night. Good news is it did stop the ticking even though there were no obvious splits and the old ones (factory manifold gaskets). Cylinder 7 did show signs of leakage - dark areas around the contact circle. This was Not an easy job for a "shade tree" mechanic like me with only hand tools. Did learn one big lesson to share (maybe everybody but me would already know this). On the drivers side, I took all the (6) bolts out without Too much trouble (removed air plumbing, plug wires and back 2 coils), but when I took the last bolt out the headers dropped back and down about a quarter inch ...it was total PITA to get them lined back up so the bolts would go back in - much prying, pulling, pushing, cursing finally got them started but even then there was enough side load that it was hard wrenching all of them all the way back in.. especially in that confined space. Lesson learned = on the pass. side I left the bolt on one end loose but not out, I swung the gasket up and then started the new one at the other end while the old one still held the headers up in place... once the first one was started, then removed the last old one and swung the gasket down into place to finish. Maybe an old guy should leave it to the pros? I've seen many threads about "ticking" so thought I should share that this was the problem - DIY is up to you.

corvettebob1

Hears a better trick yet, remove the old gasket then start the rear bolt first then start the front bolt.
With the header pulled back from the head take the new gasket and slot both end bolt holes and slip the gasket between the head and the header.
Now start all the other bolts and tighten in the proper sequence working from the middle to the ends.
Note: Never remove all the bolts at the same time always keep one end bolt in place!

redrckt97

wish I had asked you-all Before attempting!

SJSZ06

Since I did my own header install (ARH LT's), replacing a gasket is no big deal.

Other vehicles I have worked on have gaskets that have slots for the two end holes.
I don't know why these don't.

hattitude

While slightly more expensive....... I used ARP studs to solve this problem.

When using the studs it's easy to to put the gasket over the studs, put the header over the gasket, the studs will hold the weight of the header while you start a nut or two to hold it all together. Then just tighten them all up.

I knew I was doing the header install by myself so I used the studs to make my job easier.

LoneStarFRC

Easy. Costs. GM - rightfully so - didn't want the additional expense of having two different gaskets in their inventory........one for the assembly lines where the engine is out of the car and access is easy........and another for the replacement market with end-holes slotted.
The biggest advantage I see, in an assembly-line environment, is that the solid end holes assure positive alignment of the gasket/manifold interface each and every time and with the speeds etc involved on the assembly line, a slotted gasket may or may not get aligned 100% of the time. Multiply the costs involved for two different gaskets times 10s of thousands of engines built every year and you're talking real money.

HTH