How to replace the (p1416) air check valve??
11-10-2017, 01:03 AM
#241
When mine threw a code for the passenger side valve years ago, I pushed few shots of PB Blaster through the hose in the direction of the check valve in the back of the engine. I figured PB Blaster would be better at breaking up gunk than WD40. The PB Blaster cleared it right up, and I think it's been at LEAST 5 years, now.
A few weeks ago I removed the intake manifold to change the oil pressure sensor. While back there, I removed the check valve to replace it, just to be safe. Turns out the auto parts store had given me the wrong model valve, and no one else in my area had one, so I examined mine closely.
I compared the valve's operation to the driver's side check valve which I had previously replaced, by blowing with my mouth through both of them in both directions and I couldn't tell the difference. A few tiny pieces of carbon came out, but that was it. Apparently, the PB Blaster really had done the trick, so I just put it back in. I did contemplate switching them, since the drver's side valve was newer, but I seriously couldn't see a difference between the newer driver's side valve and the one that was 16 years old. In fact, I put the 16 year old valve back where it was behind the engine.
A few weeks ago I removed the intake manifold to change the oil pressure sensor. While back there, I removed the check valve to replace it, just to be safe. Turns out the auto parts store had given me the wrong model valve, and no one else in my area had one, so I examined mine closely.
I compared the valve's operation to the driver's side check valve which I had previously replaced, by blowing with my mouth through both of them in both directions and I couldn't tell the difference. A few tiny pieces of carbon came out, but that was it. Apparently, the PB Blaster really had done the trick, so I just put it back in. I did contemplate switching them, since the drver's side valve was newer, but I seriously couldn't see a difference between the newer driver's side valve and the one that was 16 years old. In fact, I put the 16 year old valve back where it was behind the engine.
So PB Blaster instead of WD-40 and carb cleaner down drivers side and/or passenger's side hose straight to the valves?
How many squirts aprox. ?
Thanks in advance. 👍
11-10-2017, 01:19 AM
#242
Melting Slicks
I think I just did like 3 to 4 squires. You want to shoot into the side in which the pump blows TOWARDS the valve, so the stuff gets into the side of the valve diaphragm that opens, because I'm pretty sure they tend to get stuck closed. I hope that makes sense.
11-10-2017, 11:14 AM
#244
Thanks.
11-10-2017, 11:24 AM
#245
Melting Slicks
I don't have my car with me right now, but if I remember correctly, the hose going to that valve is rubber on that side (someone should correct me if I'm wrong) , so in lieu of compressed air, you might be able to lift the rubber hose a bit and use gravity to help get the liquid more towards the valve when you spray.
11-10-2017, 08:24 PM
#246
I don't have my car with me right now, but if I remember correctly, the hose going to that valve is rubber on that side (someone should correct me if I'm wrong) , so in lieu of compressed air, you might be able to lift the rubber hose a bit and use gravity to help get the liquid more towards the valve when you spray.
Is there any benefit in spraying the driver's side valve (bank 1), or should I just head on to Bank 2 behind the intake manifold?
Any picture where passenger's side valve is located and where to release hose from connector?
What PB Blaster should I use? They have like 10 lines of products... 🤔.
Thanks again. Amazing support here always on any issue . 👏.
11-10-2017, 10:29 PM
#247
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St. Jude Donor '08
When I first started this A.I.R repair post, I had a MISCONCEPTION about the construction of the valves. I "ASSUMED" that they were hard valve with a spring and a seat.
I took one apart and it does NOT work like you would expect.
There is a rubber disk that bends open when the pump runs to allow air into the exhaust system. When the pump shuts off the rubber disk seals the opening.
As the rubber disk ages and is exposed to heat, it gets HARD and less flexible. When it gets hard, it does not bend open properly and allow enough air to get into the exhaust system to pass the test PCM A.I.R. test.
Chemical treatment is only a band-aid. Valve replacement is the ONLY true solution to resolve the issue. I have only had success using brake parts cleaner and or carb cleaner to soften up and clean the rubber disk.
Bill
I took one apart and it does NOT work like you would expect.
There is a rubber disk that bends open when the pump runs to allow air into the exhaust system. When the pump shuts off the rubber disk seals the opening.
As the rubber disk ages and is exposed to heat, it gets HARD and less flexible. When it gets hard, it does not bend open properly and allow enough air to get into the exhaust system to pass the test PCM A.I.R. test.
Chemical treatment is only a band-aid. Valve replacement is the ONLY true solution to resolve the issue. I have only had success using brake parts cleaner and or carb cleaner to soften up and clean the rubber disk.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 11-10-2017 at 10:30 PM.
11-11-2017, 12:36 PM
#248
When I first started this A.I.R repair post, I had a MISCONCEPTION about the construction of the valves. I "ASSUMED" that they were hard valve with a spring and a seat.
I took one apart and it does NOT work like you would expect.
There is a rubber disk that bends open when the pump runs to allow air into the exhaust system. When the pump shuts off the rubber disk seals the opening.
As the rubber disk ages and is exposed to heat, it gets HARD and less flexible. When it gets hard, it does not bend open properly and allow enough air to get into the exhaust system to pass the test PCM A.I.R. test.
Chemical treatment is only a band-aid. Valve replacement is the ONLY true solution to resolve the issue. I have only had success using brake parts cleaner and or carb cleaner to soften up and clean the rubber disk.
Bill
I took one apart and it does NOT work like you would expect.
There is a rubber disk that bends open when the pump runs to allow air into the exhaust system. When the pump shuts off the rubber disk seals the opening.
As the rubber disk ages and is exposed to heat, it gets HARD and less flexible. When it gets hard, it does not bend open properly and allow enough air to get into the exhaust system to pass the test PCM A.I.R. test.
Chemical treatment is only a band-aid. Valve replacement is the ONLY true solution to resolve the issue. I have only had success using brake parts cleaner and or carb cleaner to soften up and clean the rubber disk.
Bill
Thing is, the P0492 I'm getting indicates that it's the more complicated to replace- passenger's side one... Ugghhh... How much is a valve btw and are they available from autozone for instance?
11-11-2017, 08:04 PM
#250
Melting Slicks
(BTW, I used the PB Blaster formula designed to loosen bolts and such.)
Yes, Autozone has them for about $30, BUT, make sure they sell you the correct one. If you look a the valve closely, there is a number stamped on it. Look at the driver's side valve, as they are both the same. You can even take the driver's side one off, or take a picture, if you like, so you can compare that to the one they sell you. FWIW, my 2000 Suburban's check valves look the same, but I have not yet directly compared them. If they are the same, they might actually be cheaper and not have the "Corvette tax". I should really compare them, so we all know.
11-11-2017, 08:09 PM
#251
Melting Slicks
11-11-2017, 08:20 PM
#252
Either way, how complicated is it to replace the passenger's side one? Is squirting PB into passenger's side easy to do for now?
Thanks for advice on parts cost and model number MrLeadfoot.
11-11-2017, 11:21 PM
#253
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Member Since: Dec 1999
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St. Jude Donor '08
Unless he ownned a C5, I seriously doubt anyone would really know unless you cobbled it together with tape and bailing wire.. When I FIRST purchased my 98 C5, I was heasiant about doing anything to the engine. Especially when it was under warranty.
Taking the intake manifold off really isnt that difficult. That will allow you to access all the AIR stuff for the passengers side valve.
bc
11-12-2017, 11:36 AM
#254
Melting Slicks
I failed a smog test because I had an oil catch can installed, even though it did not affect the PCV system. I was irritated by this, to say the least, and that's when I had my first discussion with a smog shop about emissions system requirements.
I took the catch can out, and went to a different shop. I watched while the guy looked over everything. I'm not sure if he had a diagram to where all components are supposed to be, but it sure looked like he knew exactly where to look for everything, because he was indeed looking and feeling around the back of the motor. I wouldn't be surprised if they have diagrams they are supposed to follow. I passed, of course, and I later told him what happened at the other shop. He told me that the emissions system cannot be altered in any way, without exception. I told him the catch can did not affect the PCV system, and in fact might actually help to lower emissions, but he said that didn't matter and that the smog laws were very strict, and that they could lose their license if they passed me with a catch can installed.
Since you have to pay whether you pass or fail, I, personally, wouldn't take a chance and go through the trouble of rerouting the passenger check valve. If you reroute it, and fail the test, then you have to take off the manifold again to put it back, which means you had to do that twice. They don't seem to go out that often, so over the life of your car, it's possible you only have to do the job once, if ever. So, it's not worth the extra work or risk, in my opinion.
I took the catch can out, and went to a different shop. I watched while the guy looked over everything. I'm not sure if he had a diagram to where all components are supposed to be, but it sure looked like he knew exactly where to look for everything, because he was indeed looking and feeling around the back of the motor. I wouldn't be surprised if they have diagrams they are supposed to follow. I passed, of course, and I later told him what happened at the other shop. He told me that the emissions system cannot be altered in any way, without exception. I told him the catch can did not affect the PCV system, and in fact might actually help to lower emissions, but he said that didn't matter and that the smog laws were very strict, and that they could lose their license if they passed me with a catch can installed.
Since you have to pay whether you pass or fail, I, personally, wouldn't take a chance and go through the trouble of rerouting the passenger check valve. If you reroute it, and fail the test, then you have to take off the manifold again to put it back, which means you had to do that twice. They don't seem to go out that often, so over the life of your car, it's possible you only have to do the job once, if ever. So, it's not worth the extra work or risk, in my opinion.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; 11-12-2017 at 11:40 AM.
11-12-2017, 11:41 AM
#255
11-12-2017, 10:16 PM
#257
02-19-2018, 02:29 PM
#260
Melting Slicks
04z.. P0492
Need smog check this week
Please if someone could clarify, P0492 is the check valve behind block?
I'm confused where to spray PBblaster... Disconnect the rubber line from Y joint on drivers side near brake booster and spray it down there? What is downstream from the check valve? Does it literally go to the check valve and then to exhaust manifold?
Need smog check this week
Please if someone could clarify, P0492 is the check valve behind block?
I'm confused where to spray PBblaster... Disconnect the rubber line from Y joint on drivers side near brake booster and spray it down there? What is downstream from the check valve? Does it literally go to the check valve and then to exhaust manifold?
