Passenger door lock and window inop......
#41
I had a very tough day. Cleaned the grounds and Splice PAcks in the engine bay. Was able to get low ohms reading from the Oil level sensor connector and had my Battery checked out it is in good condition. I pulled the Oil Level Sensor pin out of the PCM connector and it had NO effect on engine running. Motor may start if it does it dies, and most of the time I have no fuel pressure. Tomorrow I will begin by testing fuel flow, before the pressure regulator, I think I hear the pump run but have no pressure. If that fails to show fuel flow I will check it at the Fuel Filter. I have swapped the relays around and cleaned and checked the connector. Is it possible the fuel line has come off the fuel pump in the tank??? More tomorrow.
My door jamb connectors are wrapped in Orange tape do I need to take that off to inspect the connectors????
My door jamb connectors are wrapped in Orange tape do I need to take that off to inspect the connectors????
#42
Racer
wire problems
Hey guys i have a 2002 coupe and had the same problem , no speakers and no door locks or window. The dash went nuts and car would not idle right, I fixed the wires in the door jams and cleaned the grounds in the front kick panels and under the hood on the frame rails . Sence doing so i have not had anymore problems with the doos or the dash.the only other problem I have is the antilock brake and traction control lights stay on.thats another problem though , like a bad control unit.
#43
Race Director
It will cost you $165. to get the rest of the story!
Here is the deal. There are two plugs inside the door jam. You need to remove the rubber boot on both ends (it easily pops out) and pull on the wiring harnesses to fish the connectors out of the body. It will look some thing like this:
Look at the connectors and see if you see any bare wires like this:
If so pull the insulation back down and use some electrical tape to isolate the bare wire. You can also use some liquid electrical tape to insulate it. Ant boat store or hard ware store should have it.
let me know how you make out,
Oh,,by the way,,, the drivers side is most likely just like that one. I would do that one too!
BC
Here is the deal. There are two plugs inside the door jam. You need to remove the rubber boot on both ends (it easily pops out) and pull on the wiring harnesses to fish the connectors out of the body. It will look some thing like this:
Look at the connectors and see if you see any bare wires like this:
If so pull the insulation back down and use some electrical tape to isolate the bare wire. You can also use some liquid electrical tape to insulate it. Ant boat store or hard ware store should have it.
let me know how you make out,
Oh,,by the way,,, the drivers side is most likely just like that one. I would do that one too!
BC
Could this actually "short circuit" the PCM to cause other random codes/issues?
The following users liked this post:
westman (05-11-2021)
#44
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
#45
2001 Z06 Intermittent door lock issues. Both Doors. Help
Greetings and Salutations. Awesome website. Excellent information and very knowledgeable subscribers on here , so I am hoping I can get some assistance as I have tried all that has been suggested with no success.
I have a 01 ZO6 that is giving me fits with the door locks both manually in the car and with the remote.
I have reviewed the issues of the wiring and shorts and connectivity wit no success in the suggestions. Checked the fuses on the psgr side of the car. Tried to resync the remote that was not successful. Pulled battery in remote. Took door swithes out and re connected.
I cannot lock the doors unless I do it manually by moving the door lock control myself on both doors. I can only unlock the driver side door with the remote. I can only UNLOCK the driver side door with the door unlock button. On the passenger side I can only unlock with door lock button. No remote recognition what so ever on the passenger side.
Seem like a relay is bad or a larger fuse. I am out of ideas and need some help. If it was a total failure then I could just start swapping out parts.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Carl Stuber
www.batterytoppers.com
I have a 01 ZO6 that is giving me fits with the door locks both manually in the car and with the remote.
I have reviewed the issues of the wiring and shorts and connectivity wit no success in the suggestions. Checked the fuses on the psgr side of the car. Tried to resync the remote that was not successful. Pulled battery in remote. Took door swithes out and re connected.
I cannot lock the doors unless I do it manually by moving the door lock control myself on both doors. I can only unlock the driver side door with the remote. I can only UNLOCK the driver side door with the door unlock button. On the passenger side I can only unlock with door lock button. No remote recognition what so ever on the passenger side.
Seem like a relay is bad or a larger fuse. I am out of ideas and need some help. If it was a total failure then I could just start swapping out parts.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Carl Stuber
www.batterytoppers.com
#47
Check my older post as well, this is what happened to me. When it would freak out all guages would sweep and reset, check engine, whole 9 yards.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...k-careful.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...k-careful.html
#48
So my passenger door didn't lock at first. And now the window doesn't work. I think it's a timing thing and not this rubber boot issue. My door still unlocks....and I can hear my relays working when I hit the door buttons.
So I probably don't have "this" issue, right? I'm about to get the relays replaced as my next step and most likely I'll do the window regulator.
So I probably don't have "this" issue, right? I'm about to get the relays replaced as my next step and most likely I'll do the window regulator.
#49
Burning Brakes
So my passenger door didn't lock at first. And now the window doesn't work. I think it's a timing thing and not this rubber boot issue. My door still unlocks....and I can hear my relays working when I hit the door buttons.
So I probably don't have "this" issue, right? I'm about to get the relays replaced as my next step and most likely I'll do the window regulator.
So I probably don't have "this" issue, right? I'm about to get the relays replaced as my next step and most likely I'll do the window regulator.
#50
Advanced
Member Since: Jul 2008
Location: Irvine CA
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
St. Jude Donor '09
Thanks to all, I wish I had seen this thread along time ago, happened to me, took it to a dealer who replaced the passenger door control module ($500) and it fixed the problem for one day, now 4 months later I read this thread, go out and shake the rubber boot a few times, didn't work, so I made sure I had a grip on the wire inside and shook it hard, amazing it started working. This weekend I will pull the boots on both sides and tape up any bare wires.
Thanks again to all contributors on this thread.
Bill
Thanks again to all contributors on this thread.
Bill
The following users liked this post:
boostedfury (01-02-2021)
#51
Racer
I've had this problem re-occuring on almost a daily basis. every time i wiggle the accordian boot, it goes away for a while. last year, I used liquid electric tape and gobbed it all over the bare wiring and on all the other wire ends where they enter the connector... and it came back.
A number of times I proved it to be in the passenger boot by trying the window, no go, then openning the passenger door and sitting on the rocker panel and try the window again, no go, then give the accordian a wiggle and try the window and yes down it goes. I have proven this a few times, and I checked my connections yesterday, they all look great. this is baffling me. I may have to seperate the connectors tonight and have a real good look inside, and also, as someone earlier suggested, send some wire lume up the wire as far as it'll go.
Is there really a ground connection under the dash that's associated to this harness?
A number of times I proved it to be in the passenger boot by trying the window, no go, then openning the passenger door and sitting on the rocker panel and try the window again, no go, then give the accordian a wiggle and try the window and yes down it goes. I have proven this a few times, and I checked my connections yesterday, they all look great. this is baffling me. I may have to seperate the connectors tonight and have a real good look inside, and also, as someone earlier suggested, send some wire lume up the wire as far as it'll go.
Is there really a ground connection under the dash that's associated to this harness?
#52
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Aurora IL
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Same issue with me on the passenger door. Removed boot, liquid taped the bare wire and all is good. Man, what a great forum and huge thanks to Bill for the technical assist!
#53
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2005
Location: Bakersfield Ca
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Greetings and Salutations. Awesome website. Excellent information and very knowledgeable subscribers on here , so I am hoping I can get some assistance as I have tried all that has been suggested with no success.
I have a 01 ZO6 that is giving me fits with the door locks both manually in the car and with the remote.
I have reviewed the issues of the wiring and shorts and connectivity wit no success in the suggestions. Checked the fuses on the psgr side of the car. Tried to resync the remote that was not successful. Pulled battery in remote. Took door swithes out and re connected.
I cannot lock the doors unless I do it manually by moving the door lock control myself on both doors. I can only unlock the driver side door with the remote. I can only UNLOCK the driver side door with the door unlock button. On the passenger side I can only unlock with door lock button. No remote recognition what so ever on the passenger side.
Seem like a relay is bad or a larger fuse. I am out of ideas and need some help. If it was a total failure then I could just start swapping out parts.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Carl Stuber
www.batterytoppers.com
I have a 01 ZO6 that is giving me fits with the door locks both manually in the car and with the remote.
I have reviewed the issues of the wiring and shorts and connectivity wit no success in the suggestions. Checked the fuses on the psgr side of the car. Tried to resync the remote that was not successful. Pulled battery in remote. Took door swithes out and re connected.
I cannot lock the doors unless I do it manually by moving the door lock control myself on both doors. I can only unlock the driver side door with the remote. I can only UNLOCK the driver side door with the door unlock button. On the passenger side I can only unlock with door lock button. No remote recognition what so ever on the passenger side.
Seem like a relay is bad or a larger fuse. I am out of ideas and need some help. If it was a total failure then I could just start swapping out parts.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Carl Stuber
www.batterytoppers.com
#54
Racer
I just fixed mine!!! in the passenger side accordian boot, the two connectors one back one blue, I found in the black one, there is a heavier gauge black wire and orange wire. the others are smaller gauge. So obviously the power and ground for both the window motor and door computer. and with a close inspection I found that inside the connector, the female side of the black and the orange were relaxed and making poor contact. This made the computer drop out. I proved this by starting the car with that connector completely disconnected, and sure enough all the exact same alarms on the DIC came rolling in. so anyways, I went in with a small screwdriver from the other side of the connector, where the wire enters, and i forced the female spring flange outward so it would make a tight connection again. Not a permanent fix, but if the problem ever comes back, I know exactly where to look. heat was a factor becuase the metal in the connector was blued.
#55
You guys are great!!! had mine go out after stopping to eat on a road trip. When i started up all kinds of warnings and lights came up so i shut it down and restarted...all the warnings left but then the passenger door was without power the rest of the trip home. I got online when I got back and about 15 min later had it up and going again.
Thanks so much.
Thanks so much.
#57
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I've had this problem re-occuring on almost a daily basis. every time i wiggle the accordian boot, it goes away for a while. last year, I used liquid electric tape and gobbed it all over the bare wiring and on all the other wire ends where they enter the connector... and it came back.
A number of times I proved it to be in the passenger boot by trying the window, no go, then openning the passenger door and sitting on the rocker panel and try the window again, no go, then give the accordian a wiggle and try the window and yes down it goes. I have proven this a few times, and I checked my connections yesterday, they all look great. this is baffling me. I may have to seperate the connectors tonight and have a real good look inside, and also, as someone earlier suggested, send some wire lume up the wire as far as it'll go.
Is there really a ground connection under the dash that's associated to this harness?
A number of times I proved it to be in the passenger boot by trying the window, no go, then openning the passenger door and sitting on the rocker panel and try the window again, no go, then give the accordian a wiggle and try the window and yes down it goes. I have proven this a few times, and I checked my connections yesterday, they all look great. this is baffling me. I may have to seperate the connectors tonight and have a real good look inside, and also, as someone earlier suggested, send some wire lume up the wire as far as it'll go.
Is there really a ground connection under the dash that's associated to this harness?
The REAL problem is:
A poor connection in the door connectors!!! lOOK AT the FEMALE pins IN THE DOOR CONNECTOR AND SEE IF THEY ARE deformed and cause a POOR CONNECTION. like this:
Look for beut/deformed FEMALE PINS in the door connectors and fix them. Use a metal pick and bend them back in place.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 06-10-2012 at 09:44 AM.
The following users liked this post:
boostedfury (01-02-2021)
#58
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
I MUST ADMIT partial blame for this MYTH. The bare wires in the door connector is NOT the cause for this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The REAL problem is:
A poor connection in the door connectors!!! lOOK AT the FEMALE pins IN THE DOOR CONNECTOR AND SEE IF THEY ARE deformed and cause a POOR CONNECTION. like this:
Look for beut/deformed FEMALE PINS in the door connectors and fix them. Use a metal pick and bend them back in place.
Bill
The REAL problem is:
A poor connection in the door connectors!!! lOOK AT the FEMALE pins IN THE DOOR CONNECTOR AND SEE IF THEY ARE deformed and cause a POOR CONNECTION. like this:
Look for beut/deformed FEMALE PINS in the door connectors and fix them. Use a metal pick and bend them back in place.
Bill
#59
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: Hartselle AL
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
2 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09
What would be the issue if it is just the passenger lock (actually just un-lock) not working or very rarely working?
My windows are fine just the passenger unlocking.
My windows are fine just the passenger unlocking.
#60
Heel & Toe
I MUST ADMIT partial blame for this MYTH. The bare wires in the door connector is NOT the cause for this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The REAL problem is:
A poor connection in the door connectors!!! lOOK AT the FEMALE pins IN THE DOOR CONNECTOR AND SEE IF THEY ARE deformed and cause a POOR CONNECTION. like this:
Look for beut/deformed FEMALE PINS in the door connectors and fix them. Use a metal pick and bend them back in place.
Bill
The REAL problem is:
A poor connection in the door connectors!!! lOOK AT the FEMALE pins IN THE DOOR CONNECTOR AND SEE IF THEY ARE deformed and cause a POOR CONNECTION. like this:
Look for beut/deformed FEMALE PINS in the door connectors and fix them. Use a metal pick and bend them back in place.
Bill
THIS! I got tired of twisting the tube and then wrapped the wires thinking a wire was shorting but when I examined closer, this female socket had way to much play. I bent the friction pin to close the gap and FINALLY it is fixed..... Thank you Mr. Curlee!