edcmat-l1

Well that answers that.....
Pull the connectors back apart, and make sure none of the male pins are bent. Also, look real closely at the female pins, and make sure none look opened up, which will cause them to not make good contact with the males.

phils C5 vette

Ouch, Ive got one badlly bent male. Let me see if I can straighten it out and see what it does

Bob K

Here are the code descriptions.

P1220 TP sensor 2 Circuit -A

P1221 TP Sensors 1,2 Performance -A

I hope it helps.
Bob K.

edcmat-l1

BINGO HOPEFULLY

phils C5 vette

Your the man ED !!!!!!!!!!

The codes cleared and didnt show back up after I fixed the bent one.

That was it. Let me take it for a quick spin now

edcmat-l1

<-ME.......Phil->

On a side note, any of you guys watch "Scarred" on MTV2? Its my favorite show!LOL
Its about skate boarders and snow boarders and such eatin it. These guys are constantly f**kin themselves up!! Its hilarious. Check it out, you will LYAO for sure!! Caution: pretty graphic. All real footage. They show guys break stuff and bones stickin out. Susan thinks I'm sick cause I laugh about that stuff!!

pdd000

congrats im waiting for pics

phils C5 vette

First things first

THANK YOU ED FOR JUST BEING POSITIVE IT WAS A LITTLE FIX

Ive got no code ( outside my normal ones. I must have a ground loose )

The car runs a little better from idle to 3000 RPMs

But from 3000 RPMs and up, It really really pulls much better.

I was getting some KR (3*) at a couple WOT runs.



Thanks again Ed

Time for some beer and a shwoer!!

PS. It still need the torquer II cam I have on my bench

WKMCD

That's what I said on the phone....You and your bent male connectors.

phils C5 vette

No you said you ran out of singles at the all male review

WKMCD

Now how could I run out with you stuffing my G string..

McLeod

How does this subject keep coming up?

edcmat-l1

Theres a visual I could done without!

phils C5 vette

Chicks and Kevin dig me

Where's the thread on how to post pictures and Ill put something together

chpmnsws6

A little something to add- no reason to thread lock the intake bolts. After several intakes on SEVERAL different cars, none have ever come back with leaks or bolts that have been backed off. It is also a very long skinny bolt, and the stress of the thread lock could twist the bolt enough to bake it unusable/sheered off (Even though with the many heat cycles of the engine, the thread lock won't be very effective anyway... but that is a whole new subject).

The 90/90 picked up a good deal over the LS6 on my Stock Internal car.

phils C5 vette

My rear passenger bolt was hand tight on my LS6 Monifold.
I would have never known if I didnt change manifolds.

The manifold was taken off during a recent heads and cam change.

I also have to figure out what to do with the leftover PVC hole that used to connect to the LS6 throttle body

Tap it into the airbridge. Go to autozone and pick up a mini air filter for the hose and mount it. Or F- it and just let it be

phils C5 vette

Well I worked the tune a little this morning and took the car for a drive.

The power is much much better. A 45 minute drive and the log was pretty clean except for one time at WOT at a high RPM, I hit 7* of KR. Several WOT runs before that and I had none. I can except that.I disable the LTFTs nd that kept the fuel under control. I could still pull some timing.

The RPMs cycle very quickly from 4500-6500. I bumped up my rev limiter to 6700 RPMs from 6600 RPMs. The car could easly pull right passed 6700 RPMs if I let it without dropping off. I had a couple WOT shifts right at 6500-6600 RPMS.

The car really runs good now. It was 71 degrees this morning. I was crawling down my street at 7-9 MPH with the A/C on and the car didnt care.

Honestly, after driving it like I did today, I cant justify switching to the Torquer II cam I bought. Tony Mamo was right ( again)

My set up is just right for me with a middle of the road size cam 228R, very good flowing heads ( AFR) , FAST ported 90/90 set up. I cant see using much more power on the street.

Once again, I have to thank Ed for coaching me, McLeod for explaining wha he did last month with his FAST, and WKMCD for F-ing with me while Ipanic for an hour on why my car threw a couple codes.

Damon, Im going to post my TV2 for sale unless your brother wants it. PM me.

Ill now have to start looking at better brake systems

Cobra4B

Awesome.... even though I don't "need" more power a nice set of heads and a FAST 90/90 would be the final touch.

phils C5 vette

Start from the bottom picture first and work your way up.

FAST system with Vararam hooked up all complete
FAST 90/90 in place with the MAP Relocation and LS2 harness. I have to clean this up
better picture of the little hose
the B(*^tch f a little vacuum hose
brake hose hooked up
inside the ARF heads. everything looked clean after 4000 miles
Installing the FAST gaskets
FAST 90/90 set up on the bench. Take note on which side the TB motor is on
relocation unit on the FAST
plug at the rear of the FAST to relocate the MAP. You have to bore that hole out a good amount for the plug to fit
Tape off the intake ports and view of lines and oil pressure sensor
Manifold out open view. Took about 45 minutes
Pulling the manifold out to disconnect the Brake hose, vacuum line, and MAP harness
Injectors unplugged
disconnect the fuel rail and cover with balloons
Start of the project

Chalky

Congrats on the install. What did you tq the intake bolts down to?

You might want to keep and eye on the heater control vacuum line. Mine split at the 90* angle and created a nice leak. I ended up cutting the 90* boot at the joint and slipped a 5/16" or 3/8" hose over the vacuum line, cut off the remaining boot where the hole was and slipped the remaining piece of the boot into the hose and attached it back to the intake.