Headlight switch failed. Decided to repair instead of replace…
#61
Burning Brakes
Just wanted to let everyone know that this multifunction switch is very similar in other GM products.
I have a Pontiac 2002 Grand Prix, and I had a problem with the brake lights not working and when I checked the wiring schematics I found them to be very similar to the Corvette. I pulled the switch, cleaned the contacts, and all is well! Thanks for the info!
I have a Pontiac 2002 Grand Prix, and I had a problem with the brake lights not working and when I checked the wiring schematics I found them to be very similar to the Corvette. I pulled the switch, cleaned the contacts, and all is well! Thanks for the info!
#62
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Thanks for the info! Great write-up.
Just wanted to add that switch and relay contacts (and old ignition points as well), should never be "sanded". They should be "dressed" with a very fine tooth file. And then cleaned with a chemical contact cleaner. Carbon tetrachloride (also known as carbon tet) was used way in the past, but there are newer and less toxic cleaners now.
Sanding contacts can leave non-conducting sanding grit/abrasive embedded in the contact surface, causing intermittent contact and arcing (what you are trying to get rid of). Sanding also tends to round off the flat mating surfaces of the contact, whereas proper dressing will restore them to the correct parallel position to each other.
Plasticman
Just wanted to add that switch and relay contacts (and old ignition points as well), should never be "sanded". They should be "dressed" with a very fine tooth file. And then cleaned with a chemical contact cleaner. Carbon tetrachloride (also known as carbon tet) was used way in the past, but there are newer and less toxic cleaners now.
Sanding contacts can leave non-conducting sanding grit/abrasive embedded in the contact surface, causing intermittent contact and arcing (what you are trying to get rid of). Sanding also tends to round off the flat mating surfaces of the contact, whereas proper dressing will restore them to the correct parallel position to each other.
Plasticman
#63
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Results may vary.
I'm really glad so many people have been able to put off spending money on a new switch.
I hope more people post up their success stories along with tips and tricks that can make the job easier for the next person.
Long live the Corvette Forum
#64
Le Mans Master
Yup I was having problems just this morning after fixing it 3 different times
I will end up buying a new one.
Luckily I have the Sentinel option so I can get the running lights on even if it does take a dump again.
I will end up buying a new one.
Luckily I have the Sentinel option so I can get the running lights on even if it does take a dump again.
#66
Burning Brakes
Good work, you must have great perseverance! I went hrough this a couple of months ago and it's not easy. I replaced the switch rather than go through the trouble of guessing at the repair and having to take it all apart again. You saved yourself a few hundred dollars though.
#67
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Headlight switch failed. Decided to repair instead of replace…
Did this very easy repair and works perfect! Local dealer wanted $800.00 to repair. Even if you replace with new it will only cost you about $180.00
#69
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Yep, did the stalk mod yesterday. I actually took the switch apart while it was in the car instead of totally removing it w/ the harness. Of course I did disconnect the wiring 1st. Seems to work fine now and I'll test it more tomorrow. One thing I struggled with was getting the bottom part of the plastic steering cover to separate from the top piece. I found after removing those 2 torx bolts (t 25 bolts) I had to pull down on the bottom piece closest to the steering wheel 1st and once that was opened I then pushed that bottom piece back toward the instrument cluster to get those hooks to disengage.
The other tough one was that t25 bolt on the the switch. I found it easiest to put my T25 torx head piece on the bolt and use a 1/4 in open end wrench to turn it. That worked great for me. Definitely don't try to use anything but a T25 for that bolt or you will strip it. Thanks for the tips everyone!
The other tough one was that t25 bolt on the the switch. I found it easiest to put my T25 torx head piece on the bolt and use a 1/4 in open end wrench to turn it. That worked great for me. Definitely don't try to use anything but a T25 for that bolt or you will strip it. Thanks for the tips everyone!
#70
after completely draining a brand new battery, i think this is going to be my new favorite CF thread...
from reading these posts, i have a melted plastic cog
i'm going to try to temp fix it while i order a new assembly
i'm really getting tired of all the little things, but i'd rather fix door reflectors and headlight switches than rebuild my transmission again
from reading these posts, i have a melted plastic cog
i'm going to try to temp fix it while i order a new assembly
i'm really getting tired of all the little things, but i'd rather fix door reflectors and headlight switches than rebuild my transmission again
#71
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Just wanted to update for some people in the same boat as me when looking to solve electrical problems. Im not sure if it was mentioned already in this thread, but if this repair doesnt fix your problem with shorting or random things not working, then there are a few other routes to look into that may have some relevance.. if any.
I felt like I ran into a dead end with electrical problems when searching and this was all I could find about fixing electrical problems, other than the grounding issues.
Bill has a thread about repairing your Ignition Switch as well:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Another helpful link is photos of the grounding locations on the car that may cause some issues.
http://pages.infinit.net/vette747/Ground
I am yet to rechecking the rest of the grounds, but I have a signal short issue with the passenger side front blinker not blinking - even though the bulb (non LED) is new and replaced.
Other things now include a short in the entire blinker system with it "sticking" solid on w an annoying buzzing noise.
Along with this is my biggest issue of the "Charge System Fault" thus not charging my battery correctly.
Sorry for the rant - but I just wanted to cross reference those links as I have read and re-read numerous forum threads trying to find a fix for my problem without having to take it to the dealer, only to have them tell me to buy a new part that doesnt fix anything in the end.
Frank.
I felt like I ran into a dead end with electrical problems when searching and this was all I could find about fixing electrical problems, other than the grounding issues.
Bill has a thread about repairing your Ignition Switch as well:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Another helpful link is photos of the grounding locations on the car that may cause some issues.
http://pages.infinit.net/vette747/Ground
I am yet to rechecking the rest of the grounds, but I have a signal short issue with the passenger side front blinker not blinking - even though the bulb (non LED) is new and replaced.
Other things now include a short in the entire blinker system with it "sticking" solid on w an annoying buzzing noise.
Along with this is my biggest issue of the "Charge System Fault" thus not charging my battery correctly.
Sorry for the rant - but I just wanted to cross reference those links as I have read and re-read numerous forum threads trying to find a fix for my problem without having to take it to the dealer, only to have them tell me to buy a new part that doesnt fix anything in the end.
Frank.
#72
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St. Jude Donor '08
Frank
First thing to try is a new multifunction switch. There a very common problem and cause a ton of weird blinker issues. Theres a post that shows you how to repair the switch your self:
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...f-replace.html
Next,,,,Try this to resolve your charging system fault:
Run a 10 gage jumper wire from the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator ( large connection under the rubber boot) to the POSITIVE battery terminal. If your charging voltage inproves the circuit from the ALT to the BATT is corrupt. Look here for the answer:
That circuit goes thru the main connection on the starter solenoid and that connection can have numerous issues
Clean that connection and make sure its tight.
BC
First thing to try is a new multifunction switch. There a very common problem and cause a ton of weird blinker issues. Theres a post that shows you how to repair the switch your self:
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...f-replace.html
Next,,,,Try this to resolve your charging system fault:
Run a 10 gage jumper wire from the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator ( large connection under the rubber boot) to the POSITIVE battery terminal. If your charging voltage inproves the circuit from the ALT to the BATT is corrupt. Look here for the answer:
That circuit goes thru the main connection on the starter solenoid and that connection can have numerous issues
Clean that connection and make sure its tight.
BC
#73
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Bill -
Wow! Well - I was trying to find some time around to getting to the Big 3 Power mod which does include the Power from Alternator to the Postive Battery Post. I will still check the starter. (EDIT:Link to Big 3 upgrade - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...ig-3-pics.html)
BTW - what angle are you taking that photo from? I see teh header, but I cant picture how to the thing you seem to be holding or touching.
Another problem came up when I decided to check the voltage on the BATT Terminal for the Alternator.. it reads a very low voltage output.. something like 2-3volts.
-I have tried a few times testing the alternator before last year and it tested out fine. On top of that, it sometimes works for charging during the non rainy season (now is the rainy season for me, the same as last year whhen the problem first occured) At times it gives a super high output and i get a High Voltage Error that I correct and reduce temporarily w the Rear Defroster Button.
-It seems to be a temperamental problem that happens when its raining (same w the signal short issue) but eventually becomes fine after a little while of drying off.
It's been an on off issue for me for about a year now and solving it would make me so happy! =]
-Frank.
Wow! Well - I was trying to find some time around to getting to the Big 3 Power mod which does include the Power from Alternator to the Postive Battery Post. I will still check the starter. (EDIT:Link to Big 3 upgrade - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...ig-3-pics.html)
BTW - what angle are you taking that photo from? I see teh header, but I cant picture how to the thing you seem to be holding or touching.
Another problem came up when I decided to check the voltage on the BATT Terminal for the Alternator.. it reads a very low voltage output.. something like 2-3volts.
-I have tried a few times testing the alternator before last year and it tested out fine. On top of that, it sometimes works for charging during the non rainy season (now is the rainy season for me, the same as last year whhen the problem first occured) At times it gives a super high output and i get a High Voltage Error that I correct and reduce temporarily w the Rear Defroster Button.
-It seems to be a temperamental problem that happens when its raining (same w the signal short issue) but eventually becomes fine after a little while of drying off.
It's been an on off issue for me for about a year now and solving it would make me so happy! =]
-Frank.
Last edited by linf94112; 01-21-2010 at 11:56 PM.
#74
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Your the FIRST person to catch the oddity of the pictue!
The starter was removed from the block for a header install. It actually pulled forward (towards the front of the block) and flipped up to get the picture of the wires on the solenoid.
Your having ALL the ugly symptoms of a poor connection between the alternator and the battery.
Heres a schematic for you:
BC
The starter was removed from the block for a header install. It actually pulled forward (towards the front of the block) and flipped up to get the picture of the wires on the solenoid.
Your having ALL the ugly symptoms of a poor connection between the alternator and the battery.
Heres a schematic for you:
BC
#75
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Bill -
Damn.. so.. removing the starter to be able to access and clean the connections.. is this possible without having to take the passenger header off?
It's going to be a total PITA if header has to come off... I have LG Long Tubes that are connected into Cats, which are connected into the X-pipe.. and the only location to start unbolting is before the rear axle.. lol.. not to mention filing off the tack-welds on both sides of the exhaust pipes.. lol.
The schematic helps a ton.. but I also have another interesting question..
Under my regular operating conditions when the power isn't charging a good 12+ volts, but something more like 11.x volts.. there would randomly be a sort of motor "whine" noise that starts up and the battery volts then raise to a safe 13.x volts reading.. what is that thing that all of a sudden begins whining as if it finally turned on?
Frank.
Damn.. so.. removing the starter to be able to access and clean the connections.. is this possible without having to take the passenger header off?
It's going to be a total PITA if header has to come off... I have LG Long Tubes that are connected into Cats, which are connected into the X-pipe.. and the only location to start unbolting is before the rear axle.. lol.. not to mention filing off the tack-welds on both sides of the exhaust pipes.. lol.
The schematic helps a ton.. but I also have another interesting question..
Under my regular operating conditions when the power isn't charging a good 12+ volts, but something more like 11.x volts.. there would randomly be a sort of motor "whine" noise that starts up and the battery volts then raise to a safe 13.x volts reading.. what is that thing that all of a sudden begins whining as if it finally turned on?
Frank.
#76
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NO! You should be able to access the solenoid connections without starter removal. Just MAKE SURE that you disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable before you service the starter connections or your new forum will be SPARKEY or FLAME.
We removed the starter to get the damn header in. Man it was a PITA
I also installed it with the header in position but not tight.
We removed the starter to get the damn header in. Man it was a PITA
I also installed it with the header in position but not tight.
#77
Thats an outstanding post. Definitely one for the DIY thread in Tech.
Great job[/QUOTE]
Great job[/QUOTE]
#79
Instructor
turn signal blues
I baught a used multi function switch from a forum member and finally got to install it today I used DeeGee's post it was great made things very simpe however the new one had its own set of problems . I tried to repair my old one and have had no luck. The problem that I a have is the passanger side rear turn signal doesnt work front works in hyper flash mode started with replacing bulbs and now switch. Any suggestions before I buy a new one?
#80
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I baught a used multi function switch from a forum member and finally got to install it today I used DeeGee's post it was great made things very simpe however the new one had its own set of problems . I tried to repair my old one and have had no luck. The problem that I a have is the passanger side rear turn signal doesnt work front works in hyper flash mode started with replacing bulbs and now switch. Any suggestions before I buy a new one?