Just Finished H/C Install, Code P0106?
#1
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Just Finished H/C Install, Code P0106?
Just got done adding a G5X3 cam, with port and polished ls6 heads with PRC dual Springs and .04 cometic. I also installed LG Pro, 25% powerbond pulley and ported TB. Had to fly cut .025 on the intake side non on exhaust
The car idles choppy but good for the cam i have not driven it yet, but i keep on getting code P0106 and P0300, i know the P0300 is common for such a big cam but is the other one part of it to? Do i just need a tune?
I am sure i connected the MAP and vacum line in the bak of the Intake.
Going to get it tuned before the friday so i guess we will see if it just needs a tune.
Any guesses at what the numbers will be?
The car idles choppy but good for the cam i have not driven it yet, but i keep on getting code P0106 and P0300, i know the P0300 is common for such a big cam but is the other one part of it to? Do i just need a tune?
I am sure i connected the MAP and vacum line in the bak of the Intake.
Going to get it tuned before the friday so i guess we will see if it just needs a tune.
Any guesses at what the numbers will be?
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St. Jude Donor '03
The P0300 (and flashing CE light) is normal at idle for a big cam. It will be tuned out. You should not see it while driving, or holding it at a steady rpm above the choppy idle point.
If you drive the car, you will probably also toss a P0101 (MAF) code. This one is also somewhat normal for the mods you've done and should also be cured with the tune..
The P0106 is a MAP sensor code, not normal, and is one that suggests a possible intake or vacuum leak. Do you hear any odd noises (ie; whistling sound) while it's running? I know it's probably hard to tell, as it certainly sounds completely different than what you were used to.
If you drive the car, you will probably also toss a P0101 (MAF) code. This one is also somewhat normal for the mods you've done and should also be cured with the tune..
The P0106 is a MAP sensor code, not normal, and is one that suggests a possible intake or vacuum leak. Do you hear any odd noises (ie; whistling sound) while it's running? I know it's probably hard to tell, as it certainly sounds completely different than what you were used to.
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
You may be getting false MAP readings because you have a vacuum leak elsewhere on the intake manifold----try spraying some starting fluid or brake clean around the intake-to-head sealing surface--Did you connect the large snap connector on the Drivers side frt on the intake manifold ??brake booster line ??PCV line ??
Starting fluid will make the motor rev-up--brake clean will make it die--
Starting fluid will make the motor rev-up--brake clean will make it die--
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There is not a noticable whistle, but i am going to check the intake manifold-head area for leaks with some starter fuild since i did not change the rubber o rings out.
Could if be the map sensor its self since i used engine degreaser on the manifold then rinsed with gasoline, since if was full of oil residue?
Get it tunned tommorow so we will see what happens.
Could if be the map sensor its self since i used engine degreaser on the manifold then rinsed with gasoline, since if was full of oil residue?
Get it tunned tommorow so we will see what happens.
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Not to bad, but i did it dirty way, i got a used valve and put 80 grit (for dry use) paper and then used a drill to spin it, or you can also just spin it with some vise grips applying pressure downward. Like if it was the special cutting tool.
The hardes part was measuring how much i was removing since i only had a caliper and its a bit tricky to get consistent numbers.
But i guess thats my falt for not having the right tools.
The hardes part was measuring how much i was removing since i only had a caliper and its a bit tricky to get consistent numbers.
But i guess thats my falt for not having the right tools.
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A dial indicator, except i was measuring how much the was dropping, you can do it with a caliper it just takes longer since you have take a couple of measurements. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=709183
#11
Melting Slicks
Code P0106 is pretty normal for a larger cam. It can be tuned out. Both HPT and EFIlive have P0106 min/max fail tables, that need to be adjust, because with a cam with that profile, the idle vacuum is such that the computer doesnt like it.
You dont need to turn off the code, or anything like that. You (your tuner) need to tweak the tables, setting the max fail at 0 and 10% throttle versus 800/1600 rpm, up to around 85 Kpa, where as the stock settings are something like 65 or so @ 0%/800 rpm.
Any tuner worth his weight will know this, and know how to tune it out.
HTH
Ed
You dont need to turn off the code, or anything like that. You (your tuner) need to tweak the tables, setting the max fail at 0 and 10% throttle versus 800/1600 rpm, up to around 85 Kpa, where as the stock settings are something like 65 or so @ 0%/800 rpm.
Any tuner worth his weight will know this, and know how to tune it out.
HTH
Ed
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St. Jude Donor '03
Is it possible those cell values changed in the stock tune over the years?
I ask because I never had to alter these tables, and with my cam it typically idles around 70-75kpa I have a 2001 coupe, G5X4 cam, milled/ported 5.3s, etc....
I just looked at the ETC predicted MAP mex table, and in my original factory tune, the 0%TPS/800rpm cell is 84.9 kpa. the 10%/800 cell at 98.0 kpa.
If stock 0%/800 was 65kpa at some point, I certainly would have discovered this issue too.
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#13
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Code P0106 is pretty normal for a larger cam. It can be tuned out. Both HPT and EFIlive have P0106 min/max fail tables, that need to be adjust, because with a cam with that profile, the idle vacuum is such that the computer doesnt like it.
You dont need to turn off the code, or anything like that. You (your tuner) need to tweak the tables, setting the max fail at 0 and 10% throttle versus 800/1600 rpm, up to around 85 Kpa, where as the stock settings are something like 65 or so @ 0%/800 rpm.
Any tuner worth his weight will know this, and know how to tune it out.
HTH
Ed
You dont need to turn off the code, or anything like that. You (your tuner) need to tweak the tables, setting the max fail at 0 and 10% throttle versus 800/1600 rpm, up to around 85 Kpa, where as the stock settings are something like 65 or so @ 0%/800 rpm.
Any tuner worth his weight will know this, and know how to tune it out.
HTH
Ed
#14
Melting Slicks
Interesting.
Is it possible those cell values changed in the stock tune over the years?
I ask because I never had to alter these tables, and with my cam it typically idles around 70-75kpa I have a 2001 coupe, G5X4 cam, milled/ported 5.3s, etc....
I just looked at the ETC predicted MAP mex table, and in my original factory tune, the 0%TPS/800rpm cell is 84.9 kpa. the 10%/800 cell at 98.0 kpa.
If stock 0%/800 was 65kpa at some point, I certainly would have discovered this issue too.
Is it possible those cell values changed in the stock tune over the years?
I ask because I never had to alter these tables, and with my cam it typically idles around 70-75kpa I have a 2001 coupe, G5X4 cam, milled/ported 5.3s, etc....
I just looked at the ETC predicted MAP mex table, and in my original factory tune, the 0%TPS/800rpm cell is 84.9 kpa. the 10%/800 cell at 98.0 kpa.
If stock 0%/800 was 65kpa at some point, I certainly would have discovered this issue too.
These tables were not there at all until 2001, and the max fail was dropped from 01 to 02 and up (newer).
Just little tidbits you learn from doing this stuff everyday.
#15
Melting Slicks
You should be good, dont sweat it. If you're going to one of the big name shops out there, you're in good hands. Just make sure they tune it in SD and then turn the maf back on. MAF only tunes suck!
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St. Jude Donor '03
I certainly don't profess to be a tuning expert..just speak from experience from the stuff I've learned with my own car.
Thanks for clearing this issue up for the OP, I'm sure he's relieved.
#17
Melting Slicks
Thats half my job. Clearing up BS, dispelling incorrect information. Hope all goes well with his tune.
#20
Melting Slicks