Lowering my C5

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Nov 19, 2007 | 12:33 PM

Warnberg

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Lowering my C5

I picked up the front and rear lowering kits this last weekend and am working on the front now. So here is my question, do I have to remove the front leaf spring in order to replace the stock bolts with the lowering bolts, the instructions are not real clear and I do not see any way to get them out without removing it.

Thanks

Nov 19, 2007 | 01:23 PM

briann510

Melting Slicks

Joined: Aug 2005

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Warnberg

The front spring does not need to be removed, but you will either need a spreading tool to spread the spring end away from the lower A arm (which I dont know of anyone that has done it that way yet) or separate the lower or upper ball joint and then bring down the whole lower A arm away from the spring. Its a great opportunity to replace the shocks at the same time.

Nov 19, 2007 | 01:42 PM

Got uid0

Le Mans Master

Joined: Mar 2002

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St. Jude Donor '17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warnberg

try ls1howto.com ?

Nov 19, 2007 | 02:05 PM

Warnberg

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Quote:

Originally Posted by knowledgefreak

try ls1howto.com ?

thanks

Nov 19, 2007 | 11:33 PM

jeanlucpicard

Burning Brakes

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From: The Woodlands Texas

When I replaced my OEM springs with VBP Extreme springs I simply marked my alignment washers, dropped the upper and lower A-arm bolts on teh passenger side only, popped the OEM spring out of the car installed the new VBP and was back on the road in under 3 hours - and that included doing the rear spring as well. Marking the alignment washers allows you to set the alignment back to its original setting. I have a Firestone lifetime alignment but my method worked out just fine.

While you are doing the lowering, spend $400 and replace that weak sister OEM front spring with a 1050psi or 1100psi VBP spring. My car handles better, the bumps are less harsh and so forth with the VBP spring.

Nov 20, 2007 | 08:13 AM

Warnberg

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Update, I decided not to change the front bolts out yet... I will but not right now, I'm figuring I'll do everything at once, new rotors, calipers, pads, front and rear leaf springs and shocks all the way around.

So I just cranked the stock bolts all the way up, that gave me about 1 to 2 inches lower in the front. Working on the rear today.

Nov 21, 2007 | 10:12 AM

Warnberg

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update: For those of you considering lowering your car, you can lower it on the stock bolts (front and back) about 1 to 2 inches. Mine was about 2 inches lower when finished. All you have to do is crank the front stock bolts down until they bottom out and unscrew the rear nut on the bolt. I left about 4 threads showing on the bolt in the rear. It doesn't look like it drops the car that much when done but drive it a bit to get the car to settle, you will find it will now hit the front air dam in places you could once clear. To me the car handles better now that it is lowered. If you want or decide to go lower you will need the aftermarket front and rear bolt kit and be prepared to possibly have an alignment done when you are finished, reason for this is in order to replace the front bolts you will need to either remove the front leaf spring or remove the upper A-Arms to get the bolt out.

Thanks

Nov 21, 2007 | 08:01 PM

n5554t

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I would think twice because I've replace the air dam at least 5 times and I have a new fender to install...due to hitting a pot hole and had to purchase a special jack just to get under the car. Wish I had left it alone.....