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I pulled my ignition switch and cleaned the black deposits off the switch contacts as you described (Thank You for all your posts!).
The car still does not start, so looking for a little more help before I replace the starter.
I put the switch back together, installed it and with the ignition switch set to on, here are the voltage readings I get.
On the DIC it reads 11.8 volts
Battery Reads 12.08 volts
Under Hood Fuses:
Fuse #17, 18, 19 & 22 read 12.05 volts.
Fuse #13 & 16 read 12.01 volts.
By the time I got into the I/P Fuse box these were the readings:
Battery Volts: 11.97
Fuse #19 read 11.91 volts
Fuse #21 & #22 read 11.87 volts.
Thanks in advance for your help and feedback.
BTW / without lifting the car, how can I 'whack' the starter to see if that works while in Crank position. Also is there a way to pull a resistor and jump the starter?
I pulled my ignition switch and cleaned the black deposits off the switch contacts as you described (Thank You for all your posts!).
The car still does not start, so looking for a little more help before I replace the starter.
I put the switch back together, installed it and with the ignition switch set to on, here are the voltage readings I get.
On the DIC it reads 11.8 volts
Battery Reads 12.08 volts
Under Hood Fuses:
Fuse #17, 18, 19 & 22 read 12.05 volts.
Fuse #13 & 16 read 12.01 volts.
By the time I got into the I/P Fuse box these were the readings:
Battery Volts: 11.97
Fuse #19 read 11.91 volts
Fuse #21 & #22 read 11.87 volts.
Thanks in advance for your help and feedback.
BTW / without lifting the car, how can I 'whack' the starter to see if that works while in Crank position. Also is there a way to pull a resistor and jump the starter?[/QUOTE]
I know you can see the starter from the top as I use to THUMP my 02 Z starter from the TOP with a piece of REBAR that I tapped up with electrical tape. Wooden dowl or Rebar. Grab an assistant and THUMP it.
I pulled my ignition switch and cleaned the black deposits off the switch contacts as you described (Thank You for all your posts!).
Thanks in advance for your help and feedback.
Wiggle the big red wire coming from the fuse box under the hood and going to the starter before you try the broom stick and see if this will allow the car to start.
If that does not allow it to crank wiggle the same wire closer to the starter just beyond and outside of the battery box.
I have found this to be where my "issue" is but I have not traced the whole wire to see where my intermittent no crank issue is.
I have used BCs write up to clean my key switch but I still have a no crank issue 2 or three times a month.
I usually take time to pray and ask for the car to crank and it will. TRUE.
Bill, thank you for the switch refurbish right up. I followed your instructions step by step. Before trying the switch fix I had bought a new battery and had the starter refurbished. Up to dealing with the switch nothing had worked, after installing the refurbished switch, nothing still. I turn the key, the dash lights up, the gas pump is pumping, I hear some electrical clicks but it still wont start. After the switch fix I hear exactly the same sounds as before.
I use my C5 much less than before, so it has been sitting for months at a time. The last time I took it out was last July. In January I tried, once more, to get a set of fobs installed. I had tried before but the system always said that (I can't remember the exact words) the security system was turned off. After that I tried several other moments, and I always got the same message. I tried again in January and I got a different message, I can't remember exactly, but it said that the fobs didn't get installed. It didn't say that that the security system was turned off. I thought that I would get it installed some other day. Three weeks ago I was taking the Vette to a show and that's when I found out that it wouldn't start. I'm guessing that the security system is blocking the start, I don't know what else to do. Please help...
Last edited by TropicalVette; 03-07-2018 at 05:21 PM.
Bill, I have a '98 6 speed. I have the won't start syndrome. Bought a new battery, rebuilt the starter and refurbished the switch, as per your instructions and no dice. It still won't start. I turn the switch, the dash lights up, I hear the gas pump and some electrical sounds but it won't turn over. I suspect a security system fault. What can I do?
I created an ignition switch removal video. Hopefully that shows how to remove it easy enough and then use Bill's writeup on how to clean the contacts. Was a very easy job once you figure out how to get the switch out.
I changed the battery, got a new starter, pulled the switch and cleaned it up, didn't work so I bought a new AC Delco switch, checked all the fuses and it still won't start. I'm guessing that the security system is engaged and I can't turn it off. I will appreciate any help, please.
Thanks for sharing.I followed your instructions last month and it worked like a charm. I was a little bit nervous about tearing into it but came out just like you said it would, thanks again for helping us keep our dreams alive.
I changed the battery, got a new starter, pulled the switch and cleaned it up, didn't work so I bought a new AC Delco switch, checked all the fuses and it still won't start. I'm guessing that the security system is engaged and I can't turn it off. I will appreciate any help, please.
Use the DIC and read and post ALL OF YOUR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!
That will tell you if the security system is causing the issue!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!
I always read my DTCs prior to turning OFF the ignition switch. If you have any messages on the DIC,, PRESS RESET until they are gone!
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect.)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.
My dash says service abs, service traction control, and security light blinks. Car wont start. I believe i have cleaned the ignition where necessary, put it all back together, car stil wouldnt start. I replaced the starter, still nothing. Do i need a new key perhaps? Im trying to avoid the dealership. Battery is good, and new and charged. Im at a loss now. Here is my thread in case im hijacking this one...
1. It is NOT necessary to disassemble the lower portion of the switch!! There is NOTHING in there electrical related!"
So.... I have already installed a NEW switch (picked one up on eBay for $60) so car is running again. But I would like to save the old switch mechanism if I can. I polished the old contacts and thought I would check the back side contacts(?) as well. Attached is a picture of the inside of the part your NOT SUPPOSED TO OPEN UP.
Do you know the holes the pins go in and the pin and spring position/orientation inside the switch? I would love to be able to keep the old one as a spare if possible, but if it is a loss now, not a big deal.
1. It is NOT necessary to disassemble the lower portion of the switch!! There is NOTHING in there electrical related!"
So.... I have already installed a NEW switch (picked one up on eBay for $60) so car is running again. But I would like to save the old switch mechanism if I can. I polished the old contacts and thought I would check the back side contacts(?) as well. Attached is a picture of the inside of the part your NOT SUPPOSED TO OPEN UP.
Do you know the holes the pins go in and the pin and spring position/orientation inside the switch? I would love to be able to keep the old one as a spare if possible, but if it is a loss now, not a big deal.
Thanks in advance for the help!
chuckw (greast)
I figured it out! Only five holes the springs and pins can fit into and the pins need to rest on the wheel as it turns. Springs against the wheel wouldn't work. Now I have a spare with clean contacts. Hope I never have to use it.
Could somebody please clarify how to measure the resistance? I have searched the entire thread. I've even asked an electrician, a electrical engineer (for NASA), and an experienced car builder. No one understands the instructions.
Bill says to "ohm out each contact" in all 4 key positions. My first question: How many contacts are there?
Once I know all of the contacts, I can use my multimeter to measure the resistance. My meter has 5 settings for Ohms: 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, 2000k. Should I set it to 2000k?
If I had to guess.. in order to test contacts 5&D, I would put my leads on the male pins D & A. Then cycle the key through all 4 positions making sure that it measures between 0-1 ohm. Is that correct?
And to test contacts 3 & E, I would put my leads on pins E and B??????
Could somebody please clarify how to measure the resistance? I have searched the entire thread. I've even asked an electrician, a electrical engineer (for NASA), and an experienced car builder. No one understands the instructions.
Bill says to "ohm out each contact" in all 4 key positions. My first question: How many contacts are there?
Once I know all of the contacts, I can use my multimeter to measure the resistance. My meter has 5 settings for Ohms: 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, 2000k. Should I set it to 2000k?
If I had to guess.. in order to test contacts 5&D, I would put my leads on the male pins D & A. Then cycle the key through all 4 positions making sure that it measures between 0-1 ohm. Is that correct?
And to test contacts 3 & E, I would put my leads on pins E and B??????
Guys, and Bill, thank you so much for your help regarding all the issues due the ignition switch, and of course all the information that you have posted to fix them. THIS FORUM IS A GREAT AID TO SAVE A LOT OF MONEY AND LEARN!!!!
I am trying to replace my ignition switch but can not figure out how to remove the existing cylinder lock. Bill Curley’s article on how to rejuvenate the switch is excellent, but now that I have a new switch I would like to use it. Any info on how I can remove the cylinder and place it in the new switch will be greatly appreciated. Currently have a C5 interior in shambles. Hope I am posting this message in the proper place. Thanks all.
01-11-2018, 06:44 PM
