I need some advice on bolting in a racing seat. I am concerned that the stock seat bolts/studs are a bit short.
In my case I have to use the rear studs to hold the rear seat bracket. Then I am using a harness bar that needs to be bolted to the floor using the left side stud. Then I need to use the bolt to somehow mount the lap belts.
I don't think the bolts is high enough to accommodate all these things.

So i was wondering if anyone has removed this bolt and replaced it with a longer and stronger bolt. The existing bolt attachés to a bracket under the car and goes through the floor. Does anyone know if that bolt is permanently attached to the bracket or could I just put two nuts on the bolt and back it out of place. I figure it will take some mussel so I want to know if it will work before I apply excessive force.

Thanks,

JayB

 

For your race seat I would go with Hardbar seat rails and then connect everything to them. I can take some pics this weekend of the rails and stuff since I will be installing mine with my Kirkey road race deluxe seats.

What Harness bar are you running???

 

No, do not plan to use the Hardbar mounts. I am using a manual track on a Kirkey seat. My seat must be adjustable.
Have any idea about removing the bolts? Using a Crow Harness I have laying around may change later.

 

You can change the bolts. I did. I put a socket underneath the bolt head and held it in place with a floor jack. That way when you hammer the bolt out from the top, it will not deform the plate going across.



Steve

 

Great that's what I needed to know. I see from the pictures of the bolts there appears to be tack welds on them. Did you break the welds by just hammering down from the top or did you try to twist them free first or was there a chisel from the bottom involved?

 

Wicked Weasel,
Thanks so much for the tip of using the socket under the "brace". I used your method and the bolts pooped right out. I used a claw hammer, I had planed to use a BFH but it was in another room so I went with the light weight hammer and it worked fine.

I only did one modification on your method. I screwed large "connector bolts" over the stud so I had a larger surface to bang on.

Now to get some grade 8 nuts bolts and fender washers (for underneath).

Jay B

 

I just ordered this seat and plan on using an extra manual seat track from a donor car. How did you mount your seat to your rail?

http://www.saferacer.com/ultra-shiel...?productid=399

 

I bought the Kirkey mount

http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.ph...wh=10&pn=99204

Which will work on your seat. Then got two strips of steel from a local hardware store. The strips run from front to back and bolt to the locations formerly used to mount the stock seats.

I bolted the Kirkey brackets to the steel strip. Not hard took some time, but works well.
The problem I have is that my seat is a 20% lay back that I had in my Cobra Roadster.
http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.ph...&code=Series36

It grabs you just under your arm pits very tightly. I had measured my butt before I ordered my seat and came up with 16 inches. When the seat arrived I found I measured wrong and I have a 17 inch butt. A tight fit all around. I may buy a 18 inch model next.

It is very hard to get in and out of. In the roadster I went out up and out. In the Vette, I have to slid the seat back then put the wheel up and crawl out. Very hard to enter or exit. This is not a daily driver, mostly a track car so not to much of a problem.

The problem is the 20% lay-back. I use all of the lay-back, I could ,have tilted the seat forward but the problem is the seat back hit the ceiling of the car.

I am getting rid of my lay-back seat and going for a Road Race seat or maybe a drag seat. But using the sliders may make it to tall.

The stock manual tracks could be modified. Or you could buy sliders form Summit and lay them flat on the floor, which will give you more head room.