Sent to Bill but thought I would get input/experience from others also ...

I read the long posts but still a little unclear where I should start to trace down this problem. Have been getting ABS, Active handling, and Traction System messages every single time I start the car for the past couple months. Prior to this I would get them only occassionally along with a few other random messages. My blinkers and fuel guage also do not work periodically but that has not occurred for a couple months now and seems unrelated so not worried about these for now. Anyways, here are my codes and i did clear them and only the C1214 came back and again immediately along with the three messages mentioned above:

10 PCM - P0101 H, P1431 H, P1571 H, P1689 H
28 TCS - C1214 H C, C1277 H
40 BCM - B0432 H
58 SDM - U1040 H
60 IPC - U1040 H

How do I have three messages and only one current code ???

Any help to fix these or specific grounds, cables, etc. to check would be greatly appreciated.

'02 C5 coupe ...

 

If you have a 1214 DTC, your pretty much screwed. You need to either purchase a NEW EBTCM which is $$$EXPENSIVE$$$$ or spend $150 bucks and have Brian (ABS Fixer ) repair the module with a better relay and lifetime warranty.

BC

 

Electronic Brake Control Module
(if you want the photos that illustrate the following, PM me your email address)
The most common code for the EBCM is C1214 - Sol Valve relay Contact or coil CKT Open. This code is set when the system voltage is less than 8 volts for 0.23 seconds. Since our goal is to fix this for the lowest price possible, we'll start checking things we can fix for free

The EBCM sits between the engine and radiator. The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out. The EBCM is a dry module, meaning that you can change it out without having to worry about bleeding the ABS system. All of the brake fluid is contained within the BPMV. The coils fit over small spools that have valves inside them. The valves are operated by an electromagnetic field supplied by the coils.
Start by doing a quick visual inspection of the wires. If there are any obvious signs of damage, you've likely found the problem. One member had a problem with the wires rubbing the serpentine belt
Also check to make sure the wire harness has a good connection. If the connection appears solid disconnect it (see step 3 in the replacement instructions below) check the pins to ensure that they have not been bent or damaged in any way. If there is any sign of corrosion, clean it off. Once everything looks good, reseat the harness.


Next, let's move on to the grounds. The EBCM is grounded to the chassis on the left frame rail, just forward of the engine. It's the Black box. As you can see, it's real easy for dirt and moisture to get in that area which isn't exactly good for electronic components. Even if you never drive your car in the rain, it'll still get wet when you wash it, and that could be enough



Start by unbolting the chassis ground, then take the chassis ground connector apart.


Corrosion that can build up in the ground connector. Even if they don't, go ahead and clean it up with a wire brush before putting it back together. Also clean off the chassis and bolt to make sure you've got a good clean ground.

*If you are having any other electrical issues, it's a good idea to check the grounds.

It's unlikely, but before you break out you credit card and forking over your hard earned money, it's a good idea to check the fuses. One fuse box is located under the hood beside the battery, the second one is under the passenger side of the dash. Remove the floor mat and you will see the access panel. Just pull the fuses out and do a quick visual check.
At this point, we know all of the wires are good, but for some reason enough voltage is not getting to the system. It is possible that your battery is not functioning properly. If your battery is a couple of years old, has been drained and recharged a couple of times it might be a good idea to go ahead and replace your battery. This is a long shot for EBCM issues, but I think it's worth a shot before spending several hundred dollars for a new EBCM and you're going to have to replace it eventually anyways. Old batteries can cause a variety of minor electrical issues and you likely have a bunch of history codes for minor issues if the battery is causing the problem.


Now on the EBCM itself. If the electrical contacts inside the relay are dirty or burnt, the vibration from striking the module may change the symptoms or may clear them up for a while. This is by no means a fix or a cure all, in fact it could make it worse or it may not do anything, it's just something to try. Use a small plastic hammer or something similar, lightly tap the front of the EBCM on the lower right corner of the module. The area will be on the right hand side of the lower electrical connection.




At this point, You've got to additional possibilities. Replace the EBCM or replace both the EBCM and the BPMV. The service manual calls for you to measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV, if that checks our okay, you replace the EBCM if not you replace them both. Since most people do not have the equipment to do this the best we can do is to replace the EBCM. If that doesn't work, you'll have to go back and replace the BPMV.

The procedure for replacing the EBCM is very simple. The only special tool you need is a T-20 torx screw driver. I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was to long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV

1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - you will probably need to remove the airbridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) , then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness. At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down.
4 - The service manual call for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restrict the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides.
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screw driver to brake the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes you see in picture 3 have a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. push the new EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - reconnect the wire harness
10 - put the intake back on
At this point, the AH/TC/ABS should work normally. If not, you've also got a problem with the BPMV. Although you could replace the BPMV yourself, you have to bleed the ABS system which requires Tech II. For those of you like me that don't have access to Tech II, you've got 2 options. Replace the BPMV yourself and tow the car to a shop with Tech II to have it bled, or just take it in to have the BPMV replaced. The advantage is that you've already done all of the trouble shooting so you want have to pay the mechanic to diagnose the problem for you.



Replacement part sources

New EBCMs. Below is a list of part #s and estimated prices from Fred Beans to give you an idea of what you should pay.

Part Number: 10343433
All 2003-2004: $465.58

Part Number: 12216561
All 2002: $610.16

Part Number: 12208997
All 2001: $612.80

Part Number: 9367071
All 1999-2000 w/o Control Active Brakes: $486.40

An alternative to buying a new one is to have your original rebuilt.
For EBCM repair/replace

Call Brandon

877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER



or: www.absfixer.com



$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as You own it

 

Thanks both for all the help. I will check it out a little more for anything obvious now that I know where to look and if no luck will start with absfixer.

Thanks again ...

 

I had the same problem, same messages, same code, plus I would be thrown into reduced power mode sometimes.

What kind of air intake do you have? What MAF do you have? stock or modified TB / intake manifold?

 

Heres a pic of a 2002 EBTCM/BPMV. Yours is simular.






The Ground for the EBTCM is at Chassis Ground G-101



The EYELET Wire below the tab is the ground for the module:



G-104/108 is also a ground for the system: Look next to the battery:



BC

 

I have the Halltech Trap with the snorkel that puts the filter in the from bumper and opened up vents in the bumper for cold air intake. Stock MAF and only other mod is Corsa exhaust. Everything else is stock/looks department. I do have an Optima Red that has gone dead one me (left a light on for long period) but seems fine for over a year now. I have never been thrown into reduced power mode.

 

Thanks for posting those great pics, Bill Curlee...I will add them to my EBCM tutorial collection. As for AZvetteman, the EBCM in my 2002 was defective at 22,000 miles, about 2 years ago......so, you are due.

 

If you want more just let me know. I hace many!

 

Got my module back from absfixer.com a couple weeks or so and it did take care of the problem for the most part. Initially it cleared the ABS light and the Active Handling/Traction light. The Handling/Traction light came back the next day when I started it up. Drove a few days with it on till I figured out I needed to clear the codes to get it to clear again and it then stayed off for a week or so. Handling/Traction light came back on again yesterday as I was driving (actually was braking to stop at a regualted freeway entrance). Looked at the codes and now I am throwing a 1291 "Open Brake Lamp Sw Contacts During Deccel "which I wa snot throwing before ??? Seems to fit the situation ... now what to check for fix ??? I did reset the codes and made it in to work again no lights/codes so this is likely going to remain intermitted.