I'm ordering the Hotchkis swaybar kit and I want to know whats the best shocks to go with it. I want it to be tight but not too tight

 

For good all around performance, Bilsteins.
For the best of all worlds, HAL adjustables.
Please email or call us if you would like more info. Thanks!

Nate

 

I just received some Koni single adjustables. I'm installing next week and will let you know what I think.

 

IMO the best value are the Bilstein sport shocks. I am really happy with mine.

Joe

 

Adjustable shocks is the best way to go if you want to get the most out of your car both on the roadracing track and dragracing track.

I'm sure the HAL's/Konis are good but why not take the step to Ohlins Racing shocks ? It's not as exotic as it sounds, they are used by the winning teams in World Rallying, Touring cars, CART, by several top teams in Sportscar racing, Formula Atlantic, Formula 3, Formula Ford, NASCAR, American LeMans, Late Model and in several other categories all around the world. Ohlins shock absorbers have dominated the car racing scene for several years and have captured over 80 World Championship titles.

I'm using their 2-way(compression/rebound) 20 position adjustable 46HRC shocks (Coilovers). If you want to go more extreme you would use their tt44 4-way adjustable shocks but it's not needed in a street car.
http://www.ohlins.se

Why not dare to do something different :D



[Modified by seanr, 9:34 PM 12/14/2001]

 

C5xdup,

Note on Koni adjustments, adjustment from one side of adjuster hat window opening to other side is a "sweep". Approx 8 sweep adjustment range. Never run with adjustment at extreme soft or stiff position. Always back off 1/2 sweep from the extreme ends of adjustment, otherwise adjuster may bind up. Has been known to happen from time to time, backing of 1/2 sweep prevents this.

Recommend starting setting for Koni's:

Full soft for street (less 1/2 sweep)

For autox/track, full stiff up front (less 1/2 sweep) and 1-1/2 sweeps from full stiff in rear

Adjust to suit your preference from there.

Also, you will not reuse OE dustcover, which also serves as a stop on the OE shock to mount against the top isolater chassis bushing. Some people put a washer on the top of the Koni to replace that stop, but I do not recommend using a washer. Just letting the Koni's adjuster hat be the stop against the isolater bushing is sufficient and ensures maximum compression travel. You may want to add an extra washer or two between the nut and the isolater bushing to clamp down good on it and make the shock do its job, rather than the bushing flexing and moving. I also recommend using anti-sieze on the fine mounting stud threads to prevent galling. Finally, whatever you do make sure you have the front suspension compressed enough so that while tightening the top stud mount the shock does not reach full extension as the isolater bushing squeezes down, otherwise the mounting stud threads will start to carry the suspension spring load and possibly strip. The wheel/hub travel is almost double the shock travel on the C5, so you have to jack the control arm quite a good way up to prevent this situation

Happy install and kick-butt driving,





[Modified by TeamZ06, 2:09 PM 12/14/2001]

 

seanr,

How long have you had the coil-overs? Any complaints? I've heard that the mount points might not be strong enough, long term.

 

Cost and weight???

 

cjones,

I had my car delivered brand new (juli 2000) from DRM with Bilstein non-adjustable coilovers. Since when I've put about 7000miles at the roadracing tracks(about 2000 with the Ohlins) + about 2000miles on the street. I have not had any problems with the shock mounts. DRM have used coilovers in their race cars for many years without any problems.

I think that the stories about the mount points comes from guys who have asked GM about using coilovers. GM would never say ok to coilovers because the car is developed and tested with standard shocks. They would never take a official responsibility using coilovers.

I have not heard or seen anyone with problems so I will continue using coilovers. If you are very concerned about the reability it's very easy to modify the shockmounts to make them stronger.

:seeya

 

Would do the HAL shocks.

Michael

 

EB_Z06,

The difference in weight between an aluminum and steel shock in a 3000 lb car with big chunks of unsprung weight is irrelevant. It would matter in a Formula car, but not in a stock street car. Typically only about a 1 lb difference between identical shocks.

Don't know Ohlins pricing, but a quality DA shock will run about $800 - $1500 per CORNER depending on brand and application plus the spring and hardware costs. I would guess $1500 -$2000 each for the QA.

I would think there'd be a lot more US support for Koni, Penske, etc, but they all knock each other so who's to say which is better.

 

While adjustable shocks are better, the driver must know how to tune them properly which I am sure 99% of Corvette drivers cannot. More adjustments means more ways to screw it up and affect handling negatively. I used to run Ohlins on my racebikes and they are really good but I'd never spend that kind of bread on shocks for a street car.

Joe

 

TeamZ06,

Thanks for the install tips and setting recommendations! I was wondering where to start and this will definitely help.

~John

 

I agree with cruizmisl, the best buy for the money are the Bilsteins.

 

EB_Z06,

The cost is about $600 for each corner. I do not know about the weight but I think Team_Z06 is right saying most brands are within 1lbs.

Ohlins have several dealers around the US but they do not have as many as Bilstein or Koni, but .... you have to sacrifie a little to get the best :D

 

seanr,

Right now I have the base suspension on my 99 conv. I'm having a MMS 388 with Stage 3 heads installed in about a month along with a Yank 3k so I'm a bit worried about straight line traction around town.

Will the coil overs help straight line traction any? I'm thinking Hals are the way to go for straight line traction but they are kind of expensive compared to the Bilsteins.

Thanks for the input on the shock points, good to hear that people aren't having problems. There are a few folks selling coilovers now, are the DRM's any better or are they all about the same?

 

I'm impressed with the handling with my Bilstein/Hotchkis setup.


[Modified by Gary2KC5, 4:22 PM 12/17/2001]

 

SeanR

The price is lower than I was expecting for an Ohlins DA. Is that price shock-only or is the spring and hardware included too?

 

CRUZMISL,

How was the ride after the Bilstein install? Did you lower at the same time? Less harsh/more harsh? I am thinking about lowering the car about an inch all the way around and don't want to sacrifice ride quality... if that is possible. I have heard only good things about the Bilstein's... did you go for the Heavy Duty ones or the Sports? :cheers:

Patrick :seeya

 

TeamZ06,

The base starting price for the 46HRC is about $485 in sweden (without the spring). A Hyperco spring is about $60. You have to add the $60 to my setup of $600 if you do not have the spring, you will also have to add the cost for mounting hardware but that can only be a couple of $. You get a completely different situation if you go with the tt44 or tt40 model with a 3-way adjustment as standard, 4 way as an option. They are very high $$$.

For me the 46HRC with 2-way adjustment is enough. I had a hard time adjusting them because it's not an easy task to learn how different adjustments affects the handling. I needed proffesional help to get them right but I'm learning :) Now I have four different settings I use, street, roadracing, autoXing and dragracing.

If you go with a three way or 4-way adjustable shock you must be VERY experienced or you must get proffesional help to get them right, it's hard enough getting the 2-way right :)

:seeya