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ping.....ping......my car freaking PINGS!!!!!

Old 05-21-2008, 09:57 AM
  #21  
rraulston
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let us know what they charge you and if there is any difference
Old 05-21-2008, 10:21 AM
  #22  
rcknusa
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Originally Posted by rraulston
let us know what they charge you and if there is any difference
I sure will. I am going to call and see if I can drop the car off tonight and pick it up after work tomorrow. Hopefully they have a slot open. I do not see this taking more than an hour or two.
Old 05-21-2008, 10:28 AM
  #23  
rcknusa
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Just got off the phone with the dealer. He told me it could take several hours. He was not able to get me in until the 27/28 but I will not be able to do that so asked for 6 June. I will report back at that time.
Old 06-09-2008, 01:48 PM
  #24  
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Finally had the PCM reprogrammed this weekend. Cost $100. Time 2 hours to get to it and then another 1.5 hours to program. They had a terrible time. Come to find out the previous owner had put an aftermarket chip or programming and the GM code reader would not read them. Then took 12 tries to get the PCM to accept the over ride by to GM programming. I think the gas gauge problem is fixed I am at less than 1/2 tank and no problems yet. The P0332 code came back that evening but have not had the code since. I do not know if it needed to reset itself a few times or if the trigger to set the codes has actually occurred. The drive home tonight should be a very good test.
Old 06-09-2008, 04:40 PM
  #25  
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Thanks, Let us know if the pinging is gone or mostly gone now that you have had reprogrammed. I am interested to see if it worked.

Thanks
Old 06-11-2008, 02:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by oneshot
Thanks, Let us know if the pinging is gone or mostly gone now that you have had reprogrammed. I am interested to see if it worked.

Thanks

I never had any pinging that I could hear. The knock sensors detected something or just sent an errant code. The engine light comes on after acceleration. I set the cruise at 78 going up the mountain, car runs fine. As soon as I get to the top of the mountain and start to descend the engine light comes on and the code is thrown. Car is still running fine. Cannot figure out what is happening. Gas gauge seems to be working fine though.
Old 06-11-2008, 08:46 PM
  #27  
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Could be bad O2 sensors setting of the CEL. Also for the ping I'd run a can of SeaFoam through the PVC.. put a search in for how to use Sea Foam.
1. Pour entire can of Sea Foam through the brake boost hose while car is running. It will smoke like hell.
2. Let the car sit overnight if possable.
3. take it out after sitting and run it hard until the smoke clears..
4. Change oil and filter.
5. may want to change out spark plugs.
If above fails you may need to change the knock sensors or get a tune.
Good Luck..
Old 06-12-2008, 11:49 AM
  #28  
03redzo6
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you should also try cleaning your maf
Old 06-12-2008, 03:45 PM
  #29  
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:22 PM
  #30  
rcknusa
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Originally Posted by SLPRC5
Could be bad O2 sensors setting of the CEL. Also for the ping I'd run a can of SeaFoam through the PVC.. put a search in for how to use Sea Foam.
1. Pour entire can of Sea Foam through the brake boost hose while car is running. It will smoke like hell.
2. Let the car sit overnight if possable.
3. take it out after sitting and run it hard until the smoke clears..
4. Change oil and filter.
5. may want to change out spark plugs.
If above fails you may need to change the knock sensors or get a tune.
Good Luck..
I need to change the oil soon so I will go ahead and run another can of seafoam through it. Not really sure what that will do for the knock sensors though.

Originally Posted by 03redzo6
you should also try cleaning your maf
I just cleaned it but will do so again. Seems as if there is a real correlation between the outside temperature and the load on the motor. Very strange.
Old 04-29-2009, 03:12 PM
  #31  
ls1fc3srx7
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Check your grounds on the main harness. If the one ground on the back of the head, usually located on the driver side is loose, it will cause the coil packs to cut in and out, causing it to ping. Just went through this problem on a c5 we did a head cam package on.
Old 04-29-2009, 04:09 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Gordy M
Find someone with full feature scanning software and take a 20 minute ride. With a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear romps till it pings should isolate the problems. it could be the tune, injectors, fuel filters etc.

I'm reading this far down (post #13) and providing a very professional answer. Before you spend TONS of cash trying numerous things that may or may not solve your issue............Have the engine data Logged and figure out what is ACTUALLY happening!!!!

DATA LOGGING is FREE! Just find some one with EFI Live or HP Tuners. As suggested above, ,, 20 mins or less, you will have your answer.

It may NOT be pinging. Could be a mechanical issue. Could be pinging because of carbon. There are NUMEROUS answers that can cause spark Knock.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; 04-29-2009 at 04:16 PM.
Old 04-29-2009, 04:36 PM
  #33  
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Adding seafoam thru the BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE, is NOT the way to properly decarb your engine. The booster hose gets vacuum off of the very REAR of the intake manifold. The air enters in from the front. The vacuum port at the rear of the manifold is directly over cyl/s 7 & 8

At the most cylinders 7 & 8 are sparkling clean! Cylinders 1,2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 are most likely not effected by your seafoam treatment.

Feed the seafoam in from the PCV vacuum port. Its at the FRONT of the manifold. Allowing the engine to actually RUN on seafoam doesnt do much more than clean the inside of the intake manifold. Raw seafoam needs to SIT in the cylinders. When the cylinder runs on seafoam, its acts just like normal gasoline. If you introduce seafoam into the engine and monitor your fuel injector operating frequency, you will see it drop right off to almost nothing. The seafoam replaces the fuel that the fuel injectors normally provide..

What you need to do is have someone bring up the engine RPM to about 3000 RPM. When its steady at that RPM, start feeding the liquid into the manifold via a hose on that PCV nipple. Once you have about 1/3 of the can used up (Inside the manifold is nice and clean), have the person turn OFF the engine and allow the engine to spin to a stop. The manifold will still be drawing a vacuum and raw seafoam will be pumping through the cylinders. Once the engine stops,, button it back up by reinstalling the PCV hose and let it sit over night. The raw seafoam will break down the carbon. When you crank the engine the next day,,,it will studer and smoke until all the seafoam is gone.

Be careful while adding any raw liquid into the engine. Just dropping the hose into the can, may add too much liquid. I allow the engine vacuum to siphon it out and monitor how much the vacuum line is sucking up.

Recommend you change your oil after the treatments.

This is the method that I use and it has always worked very very well for me.
Old 04-30-2009, 12:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Adding seafoam thru the BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE, is NOT the way to properly decarb your engine. The booster hose gets vacuum off of the very REAR of the intake manifold. The air enters in from the front. The vacuum port at the rear of the manifold is directly over cyl/s 7 & 8

At the most cylinders 7 & 8 are sparkling clean! Cylinders 1,2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 are most likely not effected by your seafoam treatment.

Feed the seafoam in from the PCV vacuum port. Its at the FRONT of the manifold. Allowing the engine to actually RUN on seafoam doesnt do much more than clean the inside of the intake manifold. Raw seafoam needs to SIT in the cylinders. When the cylinder runs on seafoam, its acts just like normal gasoline. If you introduce seafoam into the engine and monitor your fuel injector operating frequency, you will see it drop right off to almost nothing. The seafoam replaces the fuel that the fuel injectors normally provide..

What you need to do is have someone bring up the engine RPM to about 3000 RPM. When its steady at that RPM, start feeding the liquid into the manifold via a hose on that PCV nipple. Once you have about 1/3 of the can used up (Inside the manifold is nice and clean), have the person turn OFF the engine and allow the engine to spin to a stop. The manifold will still be drawing a vacuum and raw seafoam will be pumping through the cylinders. Once the engine stops,, button it back up by reinstalling the PCV hose and let it sit over night. The raw seafoam will break down the carbon. When you crank the engine the next day,,,it will studer and smoke until all the seafoam is gone.

Be careful while adding any raw liquid into the engine. Just dropping the hose into the can, may add too much liquid. I allow the engine vacuum to siphon it out and monitor how much the vacuum line is sucking up.

Recommend you change your oil after the treatments.

This is the method that I use and it has always worked very very well for me.
Bill knows what he's talking about.

Other info -

Top Engine Cleaning

PAY ATTENTION to Posts #13 & #21 in the thread below -

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...d-tonight.html

Fogging and sitting 12 hours in very important to dissolve hardened carbon


And this thread –

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-got-pics.html
Old 04-30-2009, 03:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Surprised no one has mentioned the Seafoam clean-out.
I had to use seafoam on my 99 c5 my 02 Zo6 and my wifes lexus.. Carbon deposits are the culprit, which causes pinging regardless of knock sensors.. Not to say knock sensors go bad,, they do.. Try the seafoam in the gas tank,, It works better than any product out there... I always thought carbon deposit build up was only found in motors driven by little old ladies, and if you have a leadfoot you would not have to worry about this problem,, Not true.. Dump a can of Seafoam in the tank $9.00 a can and well worth it. Do it before you need an oil change.. Seafoam will turn brand new oil into black nasty carbon filled oil after you run it through the tank

Last edited by David426; 04-30-2009 at 04:04 PM.


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