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Ok, well the rear finally came out the car this week. I can say my DTE I had was built in the single rib case. Not sure how much that may influence how it broke though. The new replacement C5 Z06 rear that went in was with a 3 rib case though. Now I just need to see what is still good inside my DTE rear.
Not much for them to evaluate. They will not warranty stuff from racing. So I am just going to GM and buying another Z06 rear.
Are you serious...they wont warranty a product that was designed to withstand higher horsepower because you used it to race? Thats downright funny....Um I will build you a bad *** hardened diff for XX THOUSANDS of dollars but if you race it we wont warranty it.....pass that sh*t off to your grandmother then...that dont make a lick of **** sense. I bet they took your money though....Im thinking of buying one for my mom for Christmas cuz she wont drive it the way it was designed to be driven..HARD
Are you serious...they wont warranty a product that was designed to withstand higher horsepower because you used it to race? Thats downright funny....Um I will build you a bad *** hardened diff for XX THOUSANDS of dollars but if you race it we wont warranty it.....pass that sh*t off to your grandmother then...that dont make a lick of **** sense. I bet they took your money though....Im thinking of buying one for my mom for Christmas cuz she wont drive it the way it was designed to be driven..HARD
Why would you be surprised at this? Ford offers the new Mustang GT500 in with a 725hp option called the "super snake", but no factory warranty with the high horsepower option....
hell my "budget" home built 4.10 diff has over 1,000 1.6x 60' passes and never a problem. 100% stock internals except for the gear. If the diff is the "fuse" and the "weak link" why spend 2k on it?? I beat the hell out of my car and that just proves the durability of OEM components. I just disassembled the diff and it looks as new as the day I put it in!!! All splines are good on all OEM shafts and the clutch friction and steel plates look PERFECT!! Food for thought.. This guy even has the DTE brace that is supposed to make the rear near "bulletproof" and this happened. If you need to replace your aluminum case every 3 years because of fatigue, what does that say about the other aluminum stressed components in the c5?? I also find it ironic that people are buying a diff to handle hp to race yet when it breaks, it is the consumers fault for actually using the car as intended..
Why would you be surprised at this? Ford offers the new Mustang GT500 in with a 725hp option called the "super snake", but no factory warranty with the high horsepower option....
Simple......because its a FORD.....I thought you knew
hell my "budget" home built 4.10 diff has over 1,000 1.6x 60' passes and never a problem. 100% stock internals except for the gear. If the diff is the "fuse" and the "weak link" why spend 2k on it?? I beat the hell out of my car and that just proves the durability of OEM components. I just disassembled the diff and it looks as new as the day I put it in!!! All splines are good on all OEM shafts and the clutch friction and steel plates look PERFECT!! Food for thought.. This guy even has the DTE brace that is supposed to make the rear near "bulletproof" and this happened. If you need to replace your aluminum case every 3 years because of fatigue, what does that say about the other aluminum stressed components in the c5?? I also find it ironic that people are buying a diff to handle hp to race yet when it breaks, it is the consumers fault for actually using the car as intended..
MN6 w/ LS7 clutch.. Best 60' is a 1.62 average is 1.65x. Launch at around 5500 I'd say..
Big difference between a "stock" LS7 clutch that you are running and a Ram Twin disc that the OP had when he broke his car. Your clutch will be alot more forgiving and thus alot easier on parts.
Big difference between a "stock" LS7 clutch that you are running and a Ram Twin disc that the OP had when he broke his car. Your clutch will be alot more forgiving and thus alot easier on parts.
there is no difference if there is no slip. And based on my HPtuners log there is no slip... I will say a lot of it has to do w/ launch technique. I never fully "dump" the clutch. I always have the drivetrain loaded at the line w/ the clutch pedal off the floor and just to the point of engaging. I then bring up the RPMs and let off the clutch pedal quickly.
there is no difference if there is no slip. And based on my HPtuners log there is no slip... I will say a lot of it has to do w/ launch technique. I never fully "dump" the clutch. I always have the drivetrain loaded at the line w/ the clutch pedal off the floor and just to the point of engaging. I then bring up the RPMs and let off the clutch pedal quickly.
Dave
Well, if you have a stock differential, with no hardened output shafts, you've obviously developed the right technique.
I don't know. I see as many if not more DTE diffs break than stockers. The argument can be placed that people who have DTE diffs race but i'm just calling it like I see it..
I don't know. I see as many if not more DTE diffs break than stockers. The argument can be placed that people who have DTE diffs race but i'm just calling it like I see it..
Maybe it's not only because the folks that have DTE diffs race, but they have the confidence that they can dump the clutch at 6500 rpm without breaking. Combine that with poor launching techniques and I think you have the recipe for disaster regardless of what rear end you have.
All just my .02
Agree with that no doubt. I just feel that the OEM parts can handle quite a bit more power than people think and I feel I have proven that. I wonder what these people who are breaking these things are 60'ing.
I wonder what these people who are breaking these things are 60'ing.
Dave
Well that depends on how many people are willing to help push the car once they break it.
Seriously though. I'll bet it's not better than 2-2.5 tenths and unless you're trying to break a record or have tons of money and a pocket full of don't-give-a-crap, then I'd rather have your 60' times and a lasting rear end.
Well, most of my 60 foot times have been low 1.6s with me launching at 3500 rpms. I try not to launch harder to keep the diff from breaking, but with the way the twin disk grips and the lack of room to slip it things happen. I can say though, each time I broke a diff something different has failed. The first one I killed was because the cross shaft in the posi broke. This one was due to the case failure.
You will always break parts no doubt, but to spend 2k on something that seems to break just as much as your stocker is a joke. And to have no manufacturer backing when said 2k part breaks is also a joke. I'm just happy my stock diff can support my 1.6x 60's w/o a problem..
at the idiots that think parts shouldn't break at the track.
they shouldn't on a well built car. I've NEVER been stranded at the track w/ my car and I'd say I have over 5,000 passes under my belt. One time I did have to duct tape a valve cover hole from when a rocker loosened up and shot through/ but I did manage to make a few more passes before I went home w/ said duct tape. Also remember a time that I blew out the back intake seal under boost and had to put a stock back there to absorb any oil that was trying to spray out. Made my best pass ever w/ that sock.. Memories..
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