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SES, abs inop, electrical issues

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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #1  
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Default SES, abs inop, electrical issues

Weird electrical problems with this car. The ses light remains on all the time. Code shows bad o2 sensors. My issue is with the abs inop and traction control. When they come on my a/c and heat dont work either.
Why would the abs and traction control sensors control the a/c and heat. Sucks driving with no heat in the winter. lol When the abs and traction control are working so does the a/c and heat.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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How are the battery volts? If they are too low, those will go out. Check the battery, altern, and the grounds at both places.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by golfinz
How are the battery volts? If they are too low, those will go out. Check the battery, altern, and the grounds at both places.


Sort of sounds like the ABS and HVAC issues are being caused by a problem common to both of them. Use the on board diagnostics to see the codes on the car. A $300 code scanner will only give you powertrain codes so they are no good for checking the codes you have. If you see a lot of communication codes and codes indicating voltage problems in the doors and other failure codes then its highly probable you have a voltage or ground problem.

Bill
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn


Sort of sounds like the ABS and HVAC issues are being caused by a problem common to both of them. Use the on board diagnostics to see the codes on the car. A $300 code scanner will only give you powertrain codes so they are no good for checking the codes you have. If you see a lot of communication codes and codes indicating voltage problems in the doors and other failure codes then its highly probable you have a voltage or ground problem.

Bill
Yep. When I was driving 2 days ago my volts dropped down to 10/9.5/9 and I lost my abs/tcs and power to my gauges
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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DAMN!!!!!!!! You have a bunch of electrical related issue!!! You MUST solve that issue before you can do ANYTHING ELSE! Once the B+ (module voltage drops below 9 ish VDC, modules drop off line and set DTCs Some modules will not function properly when they have DTCs set. HVAC is one of them.

Start with the battery Have it tested! Take it to an Autoparts store and have them test it.

Clean the battery cable connections and Carefully inspect the cable ends for corrosion or corroded crimp connections under the red and black rubber cover shields that cover the crimped battery cable end connections.

When you reconnect the cable to the BATTERY you MUST "TORQUE" the connections to "11 ft/lbs" to get the correct battery cable connections on the battery.

The alternator main charge wire (big red one on the back of the alt) connectc to the starter solenoid and then it gos to the battery. Make sure that the solenoid connections are clean and tight also. Very common issue there too.

Resolve your charging / operating voltage issue,,, clear all your DTCs and see if you still have an issue. If you do,,,post the DTCs and we can go from there.

Clear ALL the DTCs Post your results after you do the above repairs.

Heres a write up about your DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



These are the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!!



http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html <http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html>

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html





Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\



Here is another very good site:



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!


BC
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Mine did all kinds of fun things when it turned out the battery was completely dead. I got a new one and I keep it on a tender when not in use. It would lock and unlock the doors when it wanted to and move the seats up and down it was haunted i tells ya

So, moral of story: get a new battery.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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did the diagnostic check and it says no communication for the

28 - TCS
58 - SDM
99 - HVAC
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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could it be a bad pcm since there is no communication? I had one corroded ground fixed it but no change.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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Sorry your having problem with your vette,i had the same issue change the battery,then remove your ignition switch and clean the contacts there is a sticky from bill curlee how to do this that should fix all the electrical issues with traction abs on and ac inop.
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