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In the beginning it was fun, lately its about survivial.
I'm just going to slow down and clean up the mess that I made and work on one item at a time until I complete that task instead of trying to do everything at once.
My garage looks like a "A" bomb went off in it. Tools, parts, nuts and bolts everywhere. I can barely navigate walking in the garage without tripping over something.
Have you tried contacting a few of the vendors that install the APS kit to see if they have any tubing to fit your needs ? I thought Cartek re-worked those tubes when they built Orange Crush a few years back.
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Thanks man!! Hopefully tomorrow I'll button the front back up, then I'm just waiting for the mounts to show up. I did hit one snag though and I'm not sure what I'm going to do about it yet, that being the shredded intake tube for the drivers side turbo. Gotta figure out a new something for that one (and it looks like it's filters on turbo's for now) unless I can get some crush proof tubing. Something I'm looking at is the following as APS used pieces of something VERY similar on the forward sections of it's kit: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/cruflt250.html This is the thick rubber stuff (4" radius for the turns) that I may be able to snake all the way forward. Can't seem to find a 2.75 though and I'm worried a 2.5" diameter is going to cause a bottle neck.
Best of luck with your project too man! Fun, ain't it??
FYI just beaware that the PFADT rear trans brace WILL transmit nhv (noise harshnes vibration ) some quite severe .have one in mine its a beautiful weell made functional piece little$$ but worth it i get some gear noise f/tranny but livable and since vibration is an sssue TAKE THAT INTO CONSIDERATION PS THERE WAS A THREAD FOR MORE INFO
My garage looks like a "A" bomb went off in it. Tools, parts, nuts and bolts everywhere. I can barely navigate walking in the garage without tripping over something.
Have you tried contacting a few of the vendors that install the APS kit to see if they have any tubing to fit your needs ? I thought Cartek re-worked those tubes when they built Orange Crush a few years back.
I should send you a pic of my garage. At one time about 3 weeks ago I had three cars up on jackstands as I was doing brakes on our Celica, the Vette with all for in the air, and the Trans Am with the front in the air (no motor, long term project). Now I'm down to the two cars (Vette and T/A) but it still looks like a dirty bomb full of car parts went off in there. Living the dream though!!!
Haven't contacted any vendors. I know what Cartek did and it won't work for me due to clearances. I know I can fit the filters directly on the turbo's, I just hesitate to as I would like to be able to drive the car when I feel like it (I.E. after a rain, if I get caught in the rain, ect). VegasRed (sammy) had posted a link to the stuff he used and I'm looking at it, but dang it's pricey (about $13 a foot) and the link I posted while being 1/2 as expensive is also rated for higher temps.
I should send you a pic of my garage. At one time about 3 weeks ago I had three cars up on jackstands as I was doing brakes on our Celica, the Vette with all for in the air, and the Trans Am with the front in the air (no motor, long term project). Now I'm down to the two cars (Vette and T/A) but it still looks like a dirty bomb full of car parts went off in there. Living the dream though!!!
Haven't contacted any vendors. I know what Cartek did and it won't work for me due to clearances. I know I can fit the filters directly on the turbo's, I just hesitate to as I would like to be able to drive the car when I feel like it (I.E. after a rain, if I get caught in the rain, ect). VegasRed (sammy) had posted a link to the stuff he used and I'm looking at it, but dang it's pricey (about $13 a foot) and the link I posted while being 1/2 as expensive is also rated for higher temps.
I'm sure this will all work itself out in time, but at this point, are you wishing you had just gone with a built 402 ?
I should send you a pic of my garage. At one time about 3 weeks ago I had three cars up on jackstands as I was doing brakes on our Celica, the Vette with all for in the air, and the Trans Am with the front in the air (no motor, long term project). Now I'm down to the two cars (Vette and T/A) but it still looks like a dirty bomb full of car parts went off in there. Living the dream though!!!
Haven't contacted any vendors. I know what Cartek did and it won't work for me due to clearances. I know I can fit the filters directly on the turbo's, I just hesitate to as I would like to be able to drive the car when I feel like it (I.E. after a rain, if I get caught in the rain, ect). VegasRed (sammy) had posted a link to the stuff he used and I'm looking at it, but dang it's pricey (about $13 a foot) and the link I posted while being 1/2 as expensive is also rated for higher temps.
I know what you're saying. At one time I had (4) C5's in my driveway in various stages of repair. I'm gald that phase of my life is over and I'll never get that spread out again.
I've just got the one vette to take care of now and that's plenty. Being that the APS choked off due to lack of air flow a 1/2" diameter smaller tubing will probably make it worse.
Originally Posted by lucky131969
I'm sure this will all work itself out in time, but at this point, are you wishing you had just gone with a built 402 ?
Why do a think a built 402 is the answer. I happen to have a 416 but want turbos because of the control you get with your power by using wastegates.
I think a very aggressive N/A motor on the street is a poor choice, especially in stop and go traffic.
I also am converting to an automatic. I'll see how the 416 is on power who knows, I may just skip the turbos all together and stay NA.
I'm sure this will all work itself out in time, but at this point, are you wishing you had just gone with a built 402 ?
Nope. The size of the motor has nothing to do with it and the 377 was a very carefully weighed decision based on others results both above and below that size with the APS setup. The turbo's on the APS setup just aren't big enough to keep up with the air demands of the 400+ CID motors. It performs sure, but it leaves power on teh table. Why do you think that the highest (that I know of at least) APS TT car is a 347 instead of the couple of 402's running with them? I figured that the 377 would make a great middle ground and to my knowledge has yet to be done with the APS setup.
I have a feeling that I would have run into this problem no matter what motor I put into the car.
Nope. The size of the motor has nothing to do with it and the 377 was a very carefully weighed decision based on others results both above and below that size with the APS setup. The turbo's on the APS setup just aren't big enough to keep up with the air demands of the 400+ CID motors. It performs sure, but it leaves power on teh table. Why do you think that the highest (that I know of at least) APS TT car is a 347 instead of the couple of 402's running with them? I figured that the 377 would make a great middle ground and to my knowledge has yet to be done with the APS setup.
I have a feeling that I would have run into this problem no matter what motor I put into the car.
I scanned too fast to get caught up....sorry I misread....
Oh that's nice......I have ONE of the four steering rack bushings. Got the rack slid almost back into place and noticed that I knocked one of the bushings out. Never checked for the rest but there's NOTHING to be found. Gonna check local for some and then order a DRM set if I can't find something local.
*edit* Found an old post with a Carquest PN (K6349 references directly to Moog's Part number).....referenced that at Advance Auto Parts. Going to pick up a new Moog Bushing/Sleeve set for $14 here momentarily. Wife nixed me spending $40+ on a DRM solid......I kinda gotta listen to her at this point.
Last edited by Fastbird; Aug 10, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
Oh that's nice......I have ONE of the four steering rack bushings. Got the rack slid almost back into place and noticed that I knocked one of the bushings out. Never checked for the rest but there's NOTHING to be found. Gonna check local for some and then order a DRM set if I can't find something local.
*edit* Found an old post with a Carquest PN (K6349 references directly to Moog's Part number).....referenced that at Advance Auto Parts. Going to pick up a new Moog Bushing/Sleeve set for $14 here momentarily. Wife nixed me spending $40+ on a DRM solid......I kinda gotta listen to her at this point.
Oh that's nice......I have ONE of the four steering rack bushings. Got the rack slid almost back into place and noticed that I knocked one of the bushings out. Never checked for the rest but there's NOTHING to be found. Gonna check local for some and then order a DRM set if I can't find something local.
*edit* Found an old post with a Carquest PN (K6349 references directly to Moog's Part number).....referenced that at Advance Auto Parts. Going to pick up a new Moog Bushing/Sleeve set for $14 here momentarily. Wife nixed me spending $40+ on a DRM solid......I kinda gotta listen to her at this point.
DRM bushing goes in the passenger side. There is no bushing in the drivers side.
DRM bushing goes in the passenger side. There is no bushing in the drivers side.
Yah, I forgot about the drivers side being a solid mount, but I was still down 50% of the bushings. Got the new part, going to finish up the rack and try to bleed the power steering tonight before I call it an evening.
Feel like I';m with you at your garage, keep at it, if you look hard you can prob. see that light at the end of that long tunnle, think i see it remember,fight you hardest...run the best....lookin forward to the final chapter ...GOOD LUCK!!!
No need to bleed power steering, just poor fluid in and leave the cap off. Start motor and let the pump do it's thing. Turn the steering wheel a couple of times in each direction slowly and you'll be done.
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Yah, I forgot about the drivers side being a solid mount, but I was still down 50% of the bushings. Got the new part, going to finish up the rack and try to bleed the power steering tonight before I call it an evening.
Here's a couple of pics of the clearance issue's I'm fighting. I know it's hard to see, but this it looking up at the turbo manifold to turbo flange and the transmission tunnel. The dented in section is where the flange should be sitting but you can make out how it's up higher along the high spot on the tunnel. The waffle heat shielding on the tunnel has been removed for the pics, again, to illustrate how tight the clearances suddenly got. What you can't see is up higher the clearance is almost non-existent.
No, those will be in tomorrow. This is what I was working against prior. I can only hope that there's something funky going on with my motor mounts because I can't for the life of me find even a remote reason why the motor is sitting high other than the mounts. After research, the 317 heads are the same as the 243's only with a taller chamber, no height difference.
Also, today or tomorrow, the new owner of Sammy's car (VegasRed) is bringing it by for me to compare clearances. I think I'm more stoked about getting to see that car in person than I am getting to compare clearances on the turbo kit....
*Edit* What gives with the extra bushings?? Are they spares or a softer or firmer setting??
Also, today or tomorrow, the new owner of Sammy's car (VegasRed) is bringing it by for me to compare clearances. I think I'm more stoked about getting to see that car in person than I am getting to compare clearances on the turbo kit....
*Edit* What gives with the extra bushings?? Are they spares or a softer or firmer setting??
Hope this doesn't throw a curve in troubleshooting your vibration problem, ,since these motor mounts transfer more vibration at low rpm...