vsocks1

This is tonight's project - Meziere EWP!
I have read the LS1 How to on the install.
The instructions don't say anything about drilling the thermostat but looks like LS1 says to drill two 3/16" holes.
Any comments or advice would help! Any other tips?
Also, what is the closest switched 12 volt for my relay?

chuckster

Check under the lid of the fuse box next to the Battery.. There are lots in there.. Not sure what is switched or not..

If you want to go through a grommet right behind the battery on the firewall there is a great switched Power source with its own connector free to use..

This can be found upper left behind the passenger footwell compartment. The YELLOW is hot in Ignition " ACC and ON " Its fused with a 20 amp fuse in the instrument panel fuse panel. Its fuse# 11 "ASRYOFF"

The orange is HOT at ALL Times and powered with a 20 amp fuse in the instrument panel fuse panel. Its fuse# 7 "C/LTR"

Black is a normal chassis ground and grounded at G-202 (Courtesy of Bill Curlee)

vsocks1

Oh crap.....nothing is easy.
My waterpump hits the power steering bracket. Now I have to get the dremel and grind a little off the bracket!

Cobra4B

I know my buddies Casey (CSVette) and Gary (GBVette) both have EWPs and both drilled the t-stat for proper flow.

vsocks1

Yeah I finally got ahold of Meziere and they recommended drilling two 3/16" holes in the stat. I asked why it wasn't in the instructions and he said "lots of guys don't even run a stat". I then asked....so why did you include one with the EWP?
And.........it is not drilled!

vsocks1

Got it installed - now I just have to wire it up! Need to find the closest/easiest switched 12 volt source....have my grounds and 12V hot all figured out!! Hopefully something around the battery fusebox. Not sure I want to run up into the passenger footwell. Plus I already used that source for my line lock.

chevy406

Just a couple minutes studying your picture tells a lot of what you have been doing and where you have been spending extra money over the past months. Looks like a nasty project going together. I am sure you are getting anxious to complete it and fire it up.

Cobra4B

Looks good... now go update your build thread

vsocks1

Would like to wire the switched 12V right in the battery box fuse panel. Can I just use this add a circuit in fuse #22 to trigger my Meziere relay?

Here is a picture of the add a circuit and Meziere relay. I will get the hot under the eyelet right by the battery. Can someone please give an opinion on this?





Fuse #22 I believe is switched hot but currently has 15 amp mini fuse. Thought it wasn't used so maybe I can change the fuse. The add a circuit says 10 amp max. I just noticed!

Y2Kvert4me

Yes, you can use that.

The switched power source is only going to trigger your relay. A 1 amp source would suffice for that.

The high current side of the relay is what will power your pump, and that would be the lead you're connecting direct to the battery. Make sure you fuse that lead as close to the battery as possible.

vsocks1

Can you verify #22 is switched like I want? Also, it is unused so then I can use my tap and replace the 15 A mini fuse with a 5A and a 10A in the new holder? Thanks for the help! I hate to redo stuff!!

vsocks1

Searched and found that #22 in battery fusebox is switched and live but unused. Decided to try that and use my add a circuit to trigger the waterpump relay!

Big_George_S

Vsocks, I'm planning on doing the same. Did you ever look for an under the hood source in the fuse and relay box there? How did you run the wire out of the fire wall from the #22 fuse. If I have to use that one I will but would rather find something under the hood.

Big_George_S

Ok for those of you who are looking for an ACC or a "Key on Source" as some would call it it looks like the opitions listed above are just about it. I did not find an unused fuse in the under the hood box that was a key on source and since I have a 2004 I did not have the pigtail either so I went after fuse #22. Getting through the firewall is not all that difficult. Remove the battery and you will find the through the wall bundle. I was able to push the wire through from the engine side and find it on the inside very easy, note you do not have to remove the BCM or the fuse block the wire will come out just above the fuse block. Also note you do not need to remove the access panel in the fender well either. Use an "add a circuit" attach your jumper wire, route and close up the inside. Once in the engine bay you now have a key on source that you can use for your water pump or other accessories.

evo2ls1

Nice pics, how much power to these cars pick up with the static loss of power with the EWP

Big_George_S

Manufacture claim is 12 to 14 hp. The real benefit is the imporved cooling which should help keep the engine in the proper heat range to produce max HP. That would be the reason why I installed the pump I've had STC twin turbos installed and tend to run hot at the track so trying to keep the engine cooled down.

evo2ls1

Post up any results or IAT's if they decrease after install

Big_George_S

Update.

Just finished the install of the EWP yesterday. Still need to do a driving test but here are a couple an installation suggestion.

Have a buddy help you when you got to mount the WP. There are two gaskets one on each side of the water pump (left and right) since they are o-ring style they are only held in place by the mounting bolts and not gasket material. You need four hands to keep these in place while trying to manuver the WP into position to bolt it on.

If you are hooking up the inlet and outlet for the cabin heater not they are different sizes. It is easy to not see size difference between the two black inlets sent with the kit. Note the larger of the two goes to the front of the pump with the smaller on to the rear. This is easy to overlook as you are removing and reinstall all the various hoses that are crammed into the front of the car.

I have a Benpack sissor lift and needed to lift and lower the car a couple to times to access the under side to the car. I would highly recommend using a lift it will save you a bunch of time if you need to jack up then lower the car multiple times.

All that being said I'm a shade tree machanic with no formal training but was able to complete the install using the service manual and the directions provided by Meziere. As noted above I install the EWP relay. I did this first and not at the same time I installed the actual pump. If I would have tried to to both it would have been a day and half project so plan your down time if you plan on tackling this project at home.

zeevette

I didn't know the coolant temp was affecting the IATs. Seems like they'd be seperate issues.

Big_George_S

Ok so I've had the car on the road for a couple of days now. Did some highway and local street driving. Now that it is winter and temps are down to low 70's to high 60's (I know is SoCal though, this is considered sweater weather here) it will run a bit cooler than summer time.

To recap what has been installed.

• Meziere WP319 GM LS1 High Flow Pump
• 160 degree Tstat
• Dwitt high volumn fans
• Dwitt high volumn radiator
• Fan on at 190 off at 185
• SacCity Coolit VR3

Remember I'm running STS twin turbochargers dynoed at 440hp rearwheel, CARB legal (yes I passed smog)

Results: The car runs about 15 degrees cooler that is to say when I was seeing 198 I'm now seeing 185 or lower on the highway. The temp will run up to 190 the fans wil come on the temp will build up to 194 to 196 then will drop down to 175 then the cycle will start again.

I'm seeing oil temps running at 195 to 200.

Which leads me to a Question. What is the optimal or target oil temp for best performance?