Electrical Gremlins! Engine noise in radio, DIC resets itself! Bill Curlee. help!
06-07-2009, 11:59 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Electrical Gremlins! Engine noise in radio, DIC resets itself! Bill Curlee. help!
Ok, I have a few issues here...
First and foremost, I have a bad problem with hearing engine noise in my radio. It started a few weeks ago, and I traced it back to some plug wires that got pinched. I relocated my coil packs, and had them next to the battery on the passenger side. The wires were fixed, I trimmed them to length and the noise pretty much went away. It started to come back, so I decided to relocate my battery to the trunk to make more room and get the coils away from my fuse box.
So yesterday I installed the Lingenfelter battery relocation kit (pain in the ***!!!) and moved my coils AGAIN. I also shortened the wires so everything was an exact fit, and looks good. However, my radio problem has only gotten WORSE. It's even worse tonight than it was last night. So strange...
Today I moved the coils back temporarily near the stock location, and put the short Magnecor wires that were on the car before I relocated the coils. I even removed the coil pack extension, and had a buddy hold the plastic part of the bracket I made while I started the car.
Radio problem STILL there.
I did not do anything on the drivers side, the coil is still relocated but everything looks good on that side, and nothing is near any electronics. I will double check again tomorrow, but they look perfect to me.
Could the be something other than my spark plug wires?
Also, since I relocated my battery, my DIC keeps resetting itself. I leave it on oil temperature all the time, and now when I start the car it is defaulting back to odometer. What gives with that? 2 month old AC Delco professional battery. I ran the ground cable straight from the battery up to the side of the block where the factory ground is, and ran a new strap from the front of the drivers side head to a spot on the frame. It should be grounded GOOD. The positive cable is ran from the battery and bolted directly to the starter, and the little pigtail runs up to the spot on the side of the fuse panel. All of my connections are nice and tight. My car did the same thing with my old optima battery last year (in the stock location) and stopped when I bought this AC professional one.
Anyways, do you electrical geniuses have any ideas? I'm pretty bummed right now!
First and foremost, I have a bad problem with hearing engine noise in my radio. It started a few weeks ago, and I traced it back to some plug wires that got pinched. I relocated my coil packs, and had them next to the battery on the passenger side. The wires were fixed, I trimmed them to length and the noise pretty much went away. It started to come back, so I decided to relocate my battery to the trunk to make more room and get the coils away from my fuse box.
So yesterday I installed the Lingenfelter battery relocation kit (pain in the ***!!!) and moved my coils AGAIN. I also shortened the wires so everything was an exact fit, and looks good. However, my radio problem has only gotten WORSE. It's even worse tonight than it was last night. So strange...
Today I moved the coils back temporarily near the stock location, and put the short Magnecor wires that were on the car before I relocated the coils. I even removed the coil pack extension, and had a buddy hold the plastic part of the bracket I made while I started the car.
Radio problem STILL there.
I did not do anything on the drivers side, the coil is still relocated but everything looks good on that side, and nothing is near any electronics. I will double check again tomorrow, but they look perfect to me.
Could the be something other than my spark plug wires?
Also, since I relocated my battery, my DIC keeps resetting itself. I leave it on oil temperature all the time, and now when I start the car it is defaulting back to odometer. What gives with that? 2 month old AC Delco professional battery. I ran the ground cable straight from the battery up to the side of the block where the factory ground is, and ran a new strap from the front of the drivers side head to a spot on the frame. It should be grounded GOOD. The positive cable is ran from the battery and bolted directly to the starter, and the little pigtail runs up to the spot on the side of the fuse panel. All of my connections are nice and tight. My car did the same thing with my old optima battery last year (in the stock location) and stopped when I bought this AC professional one.
Anyways, do you electrical geniuses have any ideas? I'm pretty bummed right now!
06-08-2009, 11:38 AM
#2
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Ha!!
I can help you with the DIC rest issue. You have one or more of the following issues:
When you have the reset issue, current draw of the starter/car causes the battery voltage to drop LOW during the initial power up of the starter. The starter will draw approx 350-400 amps during the initial crank moment and then will reduce a little as the engine starts to crank. While the current draw is HIGH, battery output will drop to its lowest point that it can support or to the lowest voltage that a bad connection in the circuit can support. Battery voltage output is inversly proportionsal battery current draw. Some of the things that cause issues during starting are:
-Battery that can not handle the current draw of the starter. Have the battery tested (even though its new) and make sure that it has the proper current output and correct voltage output during the current test.
- The wiring run that you installed from the relocated battery to the OEM battery location is inadequate for the currebt draw of the starter.
- Poor connection or inadequate connection between the connection points of the new cable install.
- Poor or inadequate ground connection between the engine and the frame.
- If I were you, I would MAKE SURE that you have adequate gage ground wires from the engine to the chassie and chassie to the battery. Ground the battery to the frame where the battery lives now and between the engine and the frame where the battery use to live. What size wires did you use to supply power to the main fuse boxes? That wire has to be as big if not bigger than the OEM wire that ran from the OEM battery location. Look at the B+ connection on the engine compartment fuse center. There will be TWO wires on that terminal. One is battery voltage and the other one is the wmain feed wire to the passengers foot well fuse box. That connection MUST be in good shape and properly connected to battery voltage
Another possible issue that has NOTHING to do with the battery or battery cables is, the ignition switch. If the switch connections inside the ignition switch is/are burnt, the switch will NOT provide the proper voltages to modules during the start or run switch positions and that low or momentary loss of voltage WILL cause the IPC to go into low voltage shutdown (during the time of low or inadequate voltage which could be in milliseconds) and reset the DIC and HUD. If you have the memory package, you might even see the seat and radio memory has also reset!
As for the radio noise,,,this might sound mickey mouse but give it a try. Cover the wires in alumim foil (for testing only) and ground the foil and see if it reduces and or eliminates the issue. Then remove the foil one wire at a time and see whichone causes it to come back.
Do you have the pulg boot shields installed??? What type of spark plug wires did you use??? I hope it isnt solid strand wire! If so, thats the issue.
I hope I explained this properly and that it helps solve your issue!
BC
I can help you with the DIC rest issue. You have one or more of the following issues:When you have the reset issue, current draw of the starter/car causes the battery voltage to drop LOW during the initial power up of the starter. The starter will draw approx 350-400 amps during the initial crank moment and then will reduce a little as the engine starts to crank. While the current draw is HIGH, battery output will drop to its lowest point that it can support or to the lowest voltage that a bad connection in the circuit can support. Battery voltage output is inversly proportionsal battery current draw. Some of the things that cause issues during starting are:
-Battery that can not handle the current draw of the starter. Have the battery tested (even though its new) and make sure that it has the proper current output and correct voltage output during the current test.
- The wiring run that you installed from the relocated battery to the OEM battery location is inadequate for the currebt draw of the starter.
- Poor connection or inadequate connection between the connection points of the new cable install.
- Poor or inadequate ground connection between the engine and the frame.
- If I were you, I would MAKE SURE that you have adequate gage ground wires from the engine to the chassie and chassie to the battery. Ground the battery to the frame where the battery lives now and between the engine and the frame where the battery use to live. What size wires did you use to supply power to the main fuse boxes? That wire has to be as big if not bigger than the OEM wire that ran from the OEM battery location. Look at the B+ connection on the engine compartment fuse center. There will be TWO wires on that terminal. One is battery voltage and the other one is the wmain feed wire to the passengers foot well fuse box. That connection MUST be in good shape and properly connected to battery voltage
Another possible issue that has NOTHING to do with the battery or battery cables is, the ignition switch. If the switch connections inside the ignition switch is/are burnt, the switch will NOT provide the proper voltages to modules during the start or run switch positions and that low or momentary loss of voltage WILL cause the IPC to go into low voltage shutdown (during the time of low or inadequate voltage which could be in milliseconds) and reset the DIC and HUD. If you have the memory package, you might even see the seat and radio memory has also reset!
As for the radio noise,,,this might sound mickey mouse but give it a try. Cover the wires in alumim foil (for testing only) and ground the foil and see if it reduces and or eliminates the issue. Then remove the foil one wire at a time and see whichone causes it to come back.
Do you have the pulg boot shields installed??? What type of spark plug wires did you use??? I hope it isnt solid strand wire! If so, thats the issue.
I hope I explained this properly and that it helps solve your issue!
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 06-08-2009 at 11:42 AM.
06-08-2009, 03:00 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
-Battery that can not handle the current draw of the starter. Have the battery tested (even though its new) and make sure that it has the proper current output and correct voltage output during the current test.
I will do that tomorrow afternoon, I can drive it up to the parts store
- The wiring run that you installed from the relocated battery to the OEM battery location is inadequate for the currebt draw of the starter.
The cable LPE provided is FAR heavier than what came out. It is almost twice as thick, I believe it is 1 gauge welding cable
- Poor connection or inadequate connection between the connection points of the new cable install.
I have the battery bolts on good, I tried a few different ones to see if it made a difference.
- Poor or inadequate ground connection between the engine and the frame.
I have a big fat ground strap running from the front of the passenger side head to the frame, I am going to add another one on the other side.
- If I were you, I would MAKE SURE that you have adequate gage ground wires from the engine to the chassie and chassie to the battery. Ground the battery to the frame where the battery lives now and between the engine and the frame where the battery use to live. What size wires did you use to supply power to the main fuse boxes? That wire has to be as big if not bigger than the OEM wire that ran from the OEM battery location. Look at the B+ connection on the engine compartment fuse center. There will be TWO wires on that terminal. One is battery voltage and the other one is the wmain feed wire to the passengers foot well fuse box. That connection MUST be in good shape and properly connected to battery voltage
I checked that spot last night where the 2 cables meet. The positive cable LPE provides runs straight from the battery to the starter, and has a heavy pigtail that runs to the fuse block.
Another possible issue that has NOTHING to do with the battery or battery cables is, the ignition switch. If the switch connections inside the ignition switch is/are burnt, the switch will NOT provide the proper voltages to modules during the start or run switch positions and that low or momentary loss of voltage WILL cause the IPC to go into low voltage shutdown (during the time of low or inadequate voltage which could be in milliseconds) and reset the DIC and HUD. If you have the memory package, you might even see the seat and radio memory has also reset!
The problem started IMMEDIATELY after moving the battery. This is the kit I installed:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570171613-post18.html
I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the switch, I am leaning towards the engine to frame ground at this point.
I did notice the radio noise got worse when the battery was moved, which again leads me to believe it has something to do with the ground strap.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rom-radio.html
Someone else had the same radio problem, and the alternator was suggested. I wonder if it could be the culprt?
I used MSD wires, PN 32079 which are designed for this particular application.
Thank you so much for all of your help and contribution to this forum! If we ever meet up at a cruise or something, you have a steak dinner and beer coming from me!
I will do that tomorrow afternoon, I can drive it up to the parts store
- The wiring run that you installed from the relocated battery to the OEM battery location is inadequate for the currebt draw of the starter.
The cable LPE provided is FAR heavier than what came out. It is almost twice as thick, I believe it is 1 gauge welding cable
- Poor connection or inadequate connection between the connection points of the new cable install.
I have the battery bolts on good, I tried a few different ones to see if it made a difference.
- Poor or inadequate ground connection between the engine and the frame.
I have a big fat ground strap running from the front of the passenger side head to the frame, I am going to add another one on the other side.
- If I were you, I would MAKE SURE that you have adequate gage ground wires from the engine to the chassie and chassie to the battery. Ground the battery to the frame where the battery lives now and between the engine and the frame where the battery use to live. What size wires did you use to supply power to the main fuse boxes? That wire has to be as big if not bigger than the OEM wire that ran from the OEM battery location. Look at the B+ connection on the engine compartment fuse center. There will be TWO wires on that terminal. One is battery voltage and the other one is the wmain feed wire to the passengers foot well fuse box. That connection MUST be in good shape and properly connected to battery voltage
I checked that spot last night where the 2 cables meet. The positive cable LPE provides runs straight from the battery to the starter, and has a heavy pigtail that runs to the fuse block.
Another possible issue that has NOTHING to do with the battery or battery cables is, the ignition switch. If the switch connections inside the ignition switch is/are burnt, the switch will NOT provide the proper voltages to modules during the start or run switch positions and that low or momentary loss of voltage WILL cause the IPC to go into low voltage shutdown (during the time of low or inadequate voltage which could be in milliseconds) and reset the DIC and HUD. If you have the memory package, you might even see the seat and radio memory has also reset!
The problem started IMMEDIATELY after moving the battery. This is the kit I installed:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570171613-post18.html
I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the switch, I am leaning towards the engine to frame ground at this point.
I did notice the radio noise got worse when the battery was moved, which again leads me to believe it has something to do with the ground strap.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rom-radio.html
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Sounds like the filtering capability of your alternator is suspect. Your getting AC ripple in your DC circuit. There are also capacitors in the alternator that could be bad. If you have a bad alternator, take your car to a certified Alternator repair shop and have them check the alternator. If it is BAD, have them repair your alternator.
Try this:
Get a digital volt meter and measure the output of the alternator using the AC Voltage scale. You can read the output of the alternator from the large terminal on the back of the alternator. You should see ZERO AC volts. Make sure that you scale the meter down to a low voltage scale cause the AC voltage only needs to minute to cause problems like you see. You should see about 14 Volts DC.
Do you hear the noise with the engine off???
BC
Try this:
Get a digital volt meter and measure the output of the alternator using the AC Voltage scale. You can read the output of the alternator from the large terminal on the back of the alternator. You should see ZERO AC volts. Make sure that you scale the meter down to a low voltage scale cause the AC voltage only needs to minute to cause problems like you see. You should see about 14 Volts DC.
Do you hear the noise with the engine off???
BC
I used MSD wires, PN 32079 which are designed for this particular application.
Thank you so much for all of your help and contribution to this forum! If we ever meet up at a cruise or something, you have a steak dinner and beer coming from me!
06-08-2009, 03:39 PM
#4
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Call me,,,I have some ideas. PM Sent
06-08-2009, 11:59 PM
#5
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Talked to Mike and I asked him if the coil brackets were re-grounded to the engine. There NOT! So,,,he's going to add ground/s and see if that gets rid of the noise.
BC
BC
06-09-2009, 12:28 AM
#6
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This thread has been a great read... Well laid out questions and possible solutions.
Please let us know how it goes.
p.s.- weren't you switching the spark wires to Taylors?
Please let us know how it goes.
p.s.- weren't you switching the spark wires to Taylors?
06-11-2009, 12:19 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
After a set of MSD's, Magnecors, and Taylors, I am convinced it is not the plug wires.
I did notice the sound is present in radio, and CD, and is quiet but still present when I start the car, but after running for a few seconds gets much louder. I can't even listen to music at a reasonable volume without hearing whining in the background.
Also, I ran an additional ground strap from the front of the passenger side head to another bolt on the frame, thinking something was grounded poorly, and my DIC is still resetting itself.
I switched everything out to Taylors today, with no improvement whatsoever
There went $100 on nothing 
The plus side is... I can make a spark plug wire so fast now...I wonder what else it could be?
Last edited by Mike94ZLT1; 06-11-2009 at 10:59 AM.
06-11-2009, 03:35 PM
#9
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Did you check the alternator output for AC Voltage? Use a digital multimeter and set it to AC volts. If theres ANY, that could cause it. If you dont see any, I would still have an alternator/starter shop fully test it open circuit.
BC
BC
06-11-2009, 07:02 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
No, haven't had a chance yet, I need to get my hands on a digital multimeter. If I drive it up to autozone can they test all that there, or am I better off yanking it and taking it somewhere?
06-11-2009, 09:18 PM
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Yes they can! Their machine is pretty good.
BC
BC
06-12-2009, 08:28 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I figured the scanner thing out. Anyways, I am getting AC coming off the alternator! It reads 14 volts DC, but I am getting between 28 and 35 of something when I set it to AC voltage with the black probe grounded to the frame and the red probe on the big bolt on the back of the alternator. I will get my alternator rebuilt, and report back!
06-14-2009, 08:18 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Something weird is going on... I tested the alternator in my gf's Trans Am, and other than reading 13 volts instead of 14 volts her AC readings were identical. Showed mid 30's when I set the voltmeter to AC. I could not test my jeep, because the alternator is in a stupid spot, but I am going to test a few other cars and see what I find.
06-14-2009, 11:06 PM
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Mike
I just saw the post with the meter picture. You should have your meter leads in the COMMON and V omega MA hole. The 10 ADC is only for series current AC readings.. Re-test the voltages with the meter in the middle hole and common hole on the meter and in the VAC 250 scale and see what you get.
I recommend having the alternator tested for:
AC Voltage output = Bad DIODE/s
Current Output
DC current Output
Anyone of those being bad would indicate a problem. A good alternator/starter rebuild shop will be able to FULLY test and repair your alternator.
BC
I just saw the post with the meter picture. You should have your meter leads in the COMMON and V omega MA hole. The 10 ADC is only for series current AC readings.. Re-test the voltages with the meter in the middle hole and common hole on the meter and in the VAC 250 scale and see what you get.
I recommend having the alternator tested for:
AC Voltage output = Bad DIODE/s
Current Output
DC current Output
Anyone of those being bad would indicate a problem. A good alternator/starter rebuild shop will be able to FULLY test and repair your alternator.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 06-14-2009 at 11:20 PM.
06-15-2009, 12:55 AM
#17
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Mike
I just saw the post with the meter picture. You should have your meter leads in the COMMON and V omega MA hole. The 10 ADC is only for series current AC readings.. Re-test the voltages with the meter in the middle hole and common hole on the meter and in the VAC 250 scale and see what you get.
I recommend having the alternator tested for:
AC Voltage output = Bad DIODE/s
Current Output
DC current Output
Anyone of those being bad would indicate a problem. A good alternator/starter rebuild shop will be able to FULLY test and repair your alternator.
BC
I just saw the post with the meter picture. You should have your meter leads in the COMMON and V omega MA hole. The 10 ADC is only for series current AC readings.. Re-test the voltages with the meter in the middle hole and common hole on the meter and in the VAC 250 scale and see what you get.
I recommend having the alternator tested for:
AC Voltage output = Bad DIODE/s
Current Output
DC current Output
Anyone of those being bad would indicate a problem. A good alternator/starter rebuild shop will be able to FULLY test and repair your alternator.
BC
I figured while I am messing with it, I would try a few things. With the windows up and the car off, I DO hear some noise coming from the radio! A constant low hum, like the long power cable is picking up some kind of interference, like you said. However, it is so quiet I wouldn't be able to hear it with the engine running, and if it isn't harming anything I am going to leave it alone. I could also find one of those RF bypass things and put it on the back of my radio.
Back to the DIC resetting itself... You suggested a ground issue, and said to ground the battery closer to where it is located. Well, I made a nice ground strap about 6 inches long and grounded the battery to the LPE bracket that holds it in place, which is bolted directly to the frame. I did test this ground with my handy new meter, and it is a good ground. So now it is grounded both to the engine block and the LPE bracket / frame. The engine is grounded to the frame in several locations with straps running from the passenger side head to the frame, the drivers side head to the frame, and I'm pretty sure there's another factory one somewhere else. The DIC is STILL resetting!
I don't know if there is anything else I can try. It is more of an annoyance than anything else, and if it isn't hurting anything I suppose I could just leave it, however if it has the potential to cause issues I think I might just move this battery back up front where it came from.
UGH!
Last edited by Mike94ZLT1; 06-15-2009 at 12:58 AM.
06-15-2009, 07:11 AM
#18
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Recommend that you check the Ignition Switch Output. One of the reasons modules shut down/reset is loss of voltage or seeing a voltage below 9 VDC. I believe that your seeing a low voltage during the start phase. Sounds like the contacts could be dirty.
After you resolve the alternator issues, check out the ignition switch.
Bill
After you resolve the alternator issues, check out the ignition switch.
Bill
06-15-2009, 07:59 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Recommend that you check the Ignition Switch Output. One of the reasons modules shut down/reset is loss of voltage or seeing a voltage below 9 VDC. I believe that your seeing a low voltage during the start phase. Sounds like the contacts could be dirty.
After you resolve the alternator issues, check out the ignition switch.
Bill
After you resolve the alternator issues, check out the ignition switch.
Bill
06-15-2009, 09:45 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Dropped the alternator off at a shop this morning, and the gentleman tested it for me. He said there was a slight issue with my voltage regulator, however nothing that should be causing any type of noise over my radio.
He did say there was other test equipment he would like to check it on, and asked if I could drop it off for a few. So... I'm waiting to hear back from them.
He did say there was other test equipment he would like to check it on, and asked if I could drop it off for a few. So... I'm waiting to hear back from them.