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Bringing up an old thread, if you want OEM quality and excellent performance, perfect fit and easy maintenance, the Callaway Honker is the one. Callaway's reputation and service is excellent. Worth the money. Buy it once and you'll never have to replace it.
Bringing up an old thread, if you want OEM quality and excellent performance, perfect fit and easy maintenance, the Callaway Honker is the one. Callaway's reputation and service is excellent. Worth the money. Buy it once and you'll never have to replace it.
Yes I do. I've had it for many years, easy to do maintenance too. When I had an issue they were fantastic to deal with, stood up and did the right thing. I'll tell you more in person. I'd buy it again!
I recently installed a Callaway Honker on my 04 coupe. Nice quality and fit - looks factory. One word of caution: be precise when marking for the cutout. Fit depends on the air box base being precisely located, so take your time with the install and get it right. There isn't much wiggle room to work with once the base is installed on the radiator shroud.
You are changing from hot air entering the Intake manifold which the PCM has software to make your fuel trims run within specs to having hot air entering into the Intake manifold at with more volume (Dual Cone diameter) but moving slower. Therefore making for a very rich mixture--but it looks pretty. Since the stock tune in the Corvette is designed to run at various parts of the country, the PCM has software to make minor adjustments to the air/fuel mixture. When the car is running pig-rich the PCM can adjust it to just run rich.
Bottom line is if performance isn't an issue and your are just a boulevard cruiser, not a problem. If you are looking to add performance, a TRUE cold air package (usining outside ambient air), head/cam and/or headers, or forced/sprayed induction is the only way to go.
The only way to measure the true efficiency of the engine at different rpm levels is to make a scan/log with the correct performance parameters.
Last edited by Gordy M; 05-12-2017 at 01:29 PM.
Reason: scan log
You are changing from hot air entering the Intake manifold which the PCM has software to make your fuel trims run within specs to having hot air entering into the Intake manifold at with more volume (Dual Cone diameter) but moving slower. Therefore making for a very rich mixture--but it looks pretty. Since the stock tune in the Corvette is designed to run at various parts of the country, the PCM has software to make minor adjustments to the air/fuel mixture. When the car is running pig-rich the PCM can adjust it to just run rich.
Bottom line is if performance isn't an issue and your are just a boulevard cruiser, not a problem. If you are looking to add performance, a TRUE cold air package (usining outside ambient air), head/cam and/or headers, or forced/sprayed induction is the only way to go.
The only way to measure the true efficiency of the engine at different rpm levels is to make a scan/log with the correct performance parameters.
Good deal, definitely want some gains out of it if I'm going to do it. Kinda figured it's some cheap stuff as well.
For what it's worth, I was at Catto Mills, TX Saturday for the Pump Gas Invitationals hosted by Texas Speed Syndicate to visit a buddy and watch him run his C5 FRC TT 427. One thing I noticed there on most of the vettes (C5, C6, C7, Z06, ZR1) was that their intake pipes, while custom, were all aluminum as well. Kind of makes me wonder how bad of an idea metal really is on an intake. I know ABS would be more ideal and reason theirs is metal is due to needing custom stuff, but maybe the cheap intakes worse part is the actual air filters themselves?
I've read the two air flows cause issues, but haven't seen any dyno results.
I remember seeing some way back when this topic was new, they did dyno less. Theory was the dual filter caused turbulence. The top 3 were in no particular order, VaraRam, Honker, and the Halltec TRAP (which is no longer produced)
One more option if you want to try to save some $$$.
I want to order an air intake system for my new C5. I was wondering from your experience, which one is the best one between K & N or Vararam? Or perhaps their is another?
Also I want to get a bigger TB. Looking around online 85mm is the upgrade?
Thank for in advance for your input.
Rod
02' Corvette
I have the Vararam Powerduct with a K&N Universal taper shape filter. It does put the filter out in front like the stock one so it is in a cooler area. There is a difference in the power over stock. I don't have loud pipes so it is not a placebo. Not tons but on the top or over 4000 you can feel a small boost. My experience with adding larger T/B's you may lose some bottom end torque, or throttle response but should feel some power up top with a stock engines. It is a velocity thing.
Also if you are going to put a filter on a premium car why would you buy a Ricer junk filter. Only the best should go on our Vette's. Our cars are not a throw away Civic. I have been running K&N's on every car I have owned for probably 20+ years. Why risk destroying your original engine with bad filtering.
Just to add to my Comment on the Vararam Powerduct
All I can tell you is that I have ran a couple of cars post doing this. I am sure it is not the reason I hung with these cars but it might of helped some. This is the only mod I have. Stock exhaust as well. #1 was the newer 2010 SS Camaro Manual and it was loud (Catback?) - 426hp+? Highway it was even to the point I decide I was going fast enough. Did not look but in 5th it was screaming. Too Fast! Then I ran him after leaving the highway from a 10 mph roll and same thing! #2 was a 2012 5.0 412 hp Mustang GT Vert. Going from 40mph this too a stale mate.
345hp versus these 400+ hp cars? Amazing and at the time I the thought my Vette needed to be hopped up. But what for? When it runs like a 400+hp newer car? Engineering or LS1 was rated low for Insurance. Aero and weight - again 20 year old Engineering vs 2013!
My costs may be a bit off, but most of what is stated here is based upon my experience with aftermarket intake systems for the C5....
If you live in California, think twice about the Vararam, as it can be a royal pain to install/uninstall/reinstall for smog tests. If you live in a state that doesn't have visual inspections, then also take a look at the following (grouped by cold air and non-cold air, but in no particular order) and my comments, if any:
Vararam: Brings cold air in through the fog light panel area to a panel-type filter. Owners have had good luck with system on the dragstrip, but plan on spending hours to install and a bit more to get everything lined up well. Downside: Eliminates engine bay-cooling air that would've come in from the fog light panels (Z06 or coupe/vert with opened-up panels), so the engine bay may end up being toastier, especially if you add headers later. $300-$400 (NOT smog legal in CA)
Vortech Rammer: Brings cold air up from in front of the radiator and into an enclosed box. Its filter is quite a bit smaller than the Halltech Warhead or Blackwing unit. $250 (NOT smog legal in CA)
Callaway Honker intake system: This one relocates the MAF so that it is just in front of the throttlebody. It directs cold air from underneath and costs about $500. I believe this unit is 50 states legal (smogwise) for non=Z06 C5s. Excellent design and quality. If cost is no object, this bad boy should be at the top of your list.
K&N FIPK: This is more of a semi-cold air system, as the cold air intake opening is more of a slit. Its filter endcaps are carbon fiber. However, it is configured similarly to the Halltech Stinger-R and is 50-states legal. $350
Reverse Zip-tie: Allows cold air to be drawn in from underneath, but the bare filter is exposed to potential damage from larger objects. The advantage here is that you may pass smog if the tech doesn't know "which way is up".
Warm air systems: (Easy installation)
Halltech Stinger-R: Not only contains the massive Warhead filter, but also includes a larger-than-stock airbridge and smooth throttlebody coupler. For $350.00 or less, this system represents one of the best bangs for the buck. Fortunately, if you don't like Z06 screens in front of cored-out fog light panels, (for about $40) you can add cold air induction. See my procedure at http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm
This is what I did and a swap to smog-legal status is very easy to do, as I have kept my Z06 intake box.
Halltech Venom: This intake system features an even larger filter than that of the Stinger-R, TRAP, and Blackwing. Like the Callaway Honker, it relocates the MAF sensor to just in front of the throttle body. Its filtering ability is very good, if not excellent.
Blackwing: Includes just a large filter, but an excellent one at that. Its cost is close to that of the Stinger. Like the Stinger, it is not smog-legal in CA, but can easily be swapped with the OEM box before the smog check is due.
Volant Twin Cone: This system gives you more open filter surface area than any stock box does and is well suited to an engine bay that gets cold air in from the fog light panels, as the filters are more or less in the air flow path. $265
2002+ Z06 airbox cover: A larger opening allows more air to be drawn in through the filter. Expect up to a 5 RWHP gain from this simple swap. $50
Zip-tie: An easy and inexpensive mod (eliminates the OEM box’s upper lid), but its sealing ability is questionable at best.
According to Jim Hall of Halltech, at 95-degrees IAT, the Blackwing (and other non-CAI intakes) will lose 1 degree of timing. At 135-degrees a full 12 degrees is pulled on the LS1 which equals 10 RWHP.
I measured before and after air intake temperature data with a stock Halltech Stinger and then with the same intake but with my CAI mod. The difference was staggering:
After sitting in traffic/slow-moving for 10 minutes or so, my stock Halltech setup was pulling in air that reached 145+ degreesF. Even after driving at highway speeds for 15 minutes, the intake temps never fell below 110F or so.
After installing my CAI mod, sitting in traffic/slow-moving for 10 minutes or more never produced more than 110 degrees F intake temps. After driving on the highway for less than a few minutes, the intake temps went all the way down to ambient temperatures (about 80 degrees F).
As far as horsepower gains, most aftermarket intakes will produce about the same horsepower gains if the intake air is kept relatively cool. During the many dyno runs I have seen, each car had its hood open and a large fan blowing air on the radiator. Vararam-equipped C5s produced the same gains as the Halltech and Blackwing-equipped C5s.
As was mentioned, the gains are only achieved permanently if the intake air is kept below a certain level. If not, much, if not all of your gains will be "dialed back" by the ECU.
Ebay specials: Most intake system air "runners" are made of plastic, not because it is the cheapest (it often isn't) material, but because the last thing most people want is the engine bay heat being transferred to the intake air via a metal runner. Many of the inexpensive Ebay intakes I've seen have metal runners - not good, IMO. Also, the filter is the most critical part of the intake system - why buy an unknown brand of filter for such a critical application? Please, don't cheap-out on an intake system. Stick with brands that have a long history of making quality products.
How good are these systems? My experience has shown that most will bump up RWHP by at least 10. The advantage of having cold air is that power will not be "dialed down" under slow moving/stop&go conditions.
You could easily lose 10 HP with a warm air system after engine bay temps rise during slow-moving conditions. Cold air prevents this from happening.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like Callaway is where I’m going
Thanks for the info. Sounds like Callaway is where I’m going
As a c5z owner, I'm Just wondering if the oem airbox is considered to be non CIA and takes in the hot under hood air isnt that a poor design by the Corvette engineer's? why would they do such an obvious performance robbing design, doesn't make sense to me or because the stock box is located in front of the rad and when the hood is closed the airbox is actually isolated from the engine heat that an aftermarket intake such as BW and other non CIA
airboxes is better than OEM without resorting to extra cost and installation time involved in Honker or Varam. Just wondering?
You can easily test underhood temps with a low cost digital thermometer available at just about any big box store for under ten dollars. Put the transmitter near the air box, take a drive and monitor underhood temps from inside the car in real time. You'll see that temps easily exceed 140° F in warm weather. The conclusion will be that the OEM air box is definately not a cold air intake.
Yes I realize that the stock setup isn't a CAI but because the airbox is situated in front of the rad and with the hood closed, the temperatures within the engine bay should be much higher than the location of the oe airbox, I just cant imagine the engineers of the C5 would overlook such as potential power robbing design without accounting for the temperature variations and with the car in motion the temps surrounding the box would be similar or less depending uopn the speed. Just trying to justify potentially purchasing a non CAI box lol...
12-23-2015, 10:51 AM
