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Installing new clutch and hydraulics, anything else I should do while in there?

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Old 10-02-2009, 02:04 PM
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jrmotorsports55
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Default Installing new clutch and hydraulics, anything else I should do while in there?

Planning on installing a RPS dual disc street organinc setup, as well as new pilot bearing, Z06 slave/master cylinders, and a tick remote bleed line. What else should I do while it's apart? I was thinking of a LG solid rear torque tube bushing and a new stock front bushing. Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Jason

Last edited by jrmotorsports55; 10-02-2009 at 02:06 PM.
Old 10-02-2009, 02:07 PM
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Eric D
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
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Originally Posted by jrmotorsports55
I was thinking of a LG solid rear torqu tube bushing and a new stock front bushing. Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Jason
Bad idea.
Old 10-02-2009, 04:24 PM
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jrmotorsports55
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Never heard that before. I've heard that both solid is bad, but 1 solid and 1 rubber should be fine. Saves me money if true.

Jason
Old 10-02-2009, 06:08 PM
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Eric D
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
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Originally Posted by jrmotorsports55
Never heard that before. I've heard that both solid is bad, but 1 solid and 1 rubber should be fine. Saves me money if true.

Jason
Jason,

Each of the two couplers absorb 50% of the torsional loads put through the propshaft. Remove one of them and install a solid unit and the remaining unit takes 100% of the torsional load. Doing this will reduce the life of the remaining coupler by at least 50% and the chance of shock type failure even higher. The ZR1 Corvette with 638 hp still runs two of the composite couplers.

Old 10-02-2009, 06:55 PM
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lucky131969
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Jason,

Each of the two couplers absorb 50% of the torsional loads put through the propshaft. Remove one of them and install a solid unit and the remaining unit takes 100% of the torsional load. Doing this will reduce the life of the remaining coupler by at least 50% and the chance of shock type failure even higher. The ZR1 Corvette with 638 hp still runs two of the composite couplers.

Yep, I agree. There seem to be quite a few running the metal/rubber setup, but when you run the numbers, it just puts all the strain on the rubber coupler. If my HP numbers ever get that high enough where this becomes a concern, I'll run a modified driveshaft with u-joints.
Old 10-02-2009, 07:15 PM
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Y2Kvert4me
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Jason,

Each of the two couplers absorb 50% of the torsional loads put through the propshaft. Remove one of them and install a solid unit and the remaining unit takes 100% of the torsional load. Doing this will reduce the life of the remaining coupler by at least 50% and the chance of shock type failure even higher.
Is typical failure due to straight torsional load though...or are there some radial forces present that may induce vibration?

Like any flexible coupling, misalignment is usually far more damaging than mere power transmission through it (within reason).


I don't mind if I'm wrong here, just seeking more knowledgeable answers with specific data to back it up.


Old 10-02-2009, 09:06 PM
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lucky131969
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
Is typical failure due to straight torsional load though...or are there some radial forces present that may induce vibration?
Not trying to be a smart a$$, but do you understand the difference between torsional loading and radial loading? An example of a bearing under radial load would be the alternator.

Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
I don't mind if I'm wrong here, just seeking more knowledgeable answers with specific data to back it up.
Based on the nature of his profession(and employer) Eric would have a better chance at presenting "specific data" for the design intent of the C5 driveshaft.
Old 10-02-2009, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Not trying to be a smart a$$, but do you understand the difference between torsional loading and radial loading?
Yes I do.

Torsional loading is the twisting force (power transferred).
Radial load is an out of balance, or eccentric condition.


Based on the nature of his profession(and employer) Eric would have a better chance at presenting "specific data" for the design intent of the C5 driveshaft.
Exactly why I asked HIM the question.




Old 10-03-2009, 09:12 AM
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jrmotorsports55
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OK, looks like I'll just get 2 new stock replacements while I'm in there (unless there is another option that I have not found that will work on my 99).

Thanks,

Jason
Old 10-04-2009, 12:37 PM
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Eric D
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
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Jason,

Thanks for starting your thread. To keep from hyjacking it and to answer some of the other questions about couplers I added a new thread. If you are interested you can find it here -> LINK

Old 10-04-2009, 02:43 PM
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I would opt for the Tick MC instead of a stock replacement. I did and am very happy.
Old 10-04-2009, 05:29 PM
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jrmotorsports55
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Already got the MC (Z06), so it is what it is.

Thanks for the info Eric.

Jason
Old 10-08-2009, 08:01 PM
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Roger Z06
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Put a speed bleeder on the MC from Tick

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