Best way to Remove FRONT and REAR Cradle in home garage
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Best way to Remove FRONT and REAR Cradle in home garage
I would like to pull the entire drivetrain out of my 04. What would be the best way to go about it. It looks like I need about 45 inch's of clearance in the front and 30ish in the rear.
Also the car will only be jacked up by the pucks in the 4 corners to alow the torque tube to come out.
Anyone have some idea's or experience with this?
Also the car will only be jacked up by the pucks in the 4 corners to alow the torque tube to come out.
Anyone have some idea's or experience with this?
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota City MN
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I pulled my rear cradle to fix my leaky butt. There was a great post with many great pics that I went by for doing this. The car did not have the F45 suspension so I had to figure that out for myself. After reading and looking at all the pics I new I could do this with no problem. Good luck!
#3
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Ill be doing the same thing soon.
BC
BC
#4
Burning Brakes
Definitely doable.
I would like to pull the entire drivetrain out of my 04. What would be the best way to go about it. It looks like I need about 45 inch's of clearance in the front and 30ish in the rear.
Also the car will only be jacked up by the pucks in the 4 corners to alow the torque tube to come out.
Anyone have some idea's or experience with this?
Also the car will only be jacked up by the pucks in the 4 corners to alow the torque tube to come out.
Anyone have some idea's or experience with this?
First thing I did is raise it up level with about 27 inches between the ground and the trunk floor and put jack stands under the frame. I stuck a piece of wood between the car and the stands to spread out the load better and keep the frame from getting all scratched and possibly pushed in.
Then, I hooked the engine to a small 1ton garage crane and dropped the front crossmember. Four nuts hold it to the frame, and two more for the engine mounts. I disconnected the power steering lines at the rack and dropped the crossmember and rack as 1 piece. that saved me from having to pull it out the side in my way-to-narrow townhouse garage Don't forget to unclip the brake line that runs to the right side wheel, as well as the wiring harness that runs under the rack. I also had to: disconnect the wheel sensor harnesses, p/s rack harness, pop the lower ball joints, and disconnect the shocks at the lower control arms. I unscrewed the factory ps cooler, so it stayed connected to the pump. I was able to lower the crossmember with a floor jack and roll it forward and out. Watch that the arms don't drag on the ground as you roll 'er out.
With the engine hanging from the crane, I slid a stand under the tranny, and lowered the rear crossmember. Same as the front...4 nuts hold it to the frame, and two at the differential. I undid the brake lines as well as the ABS connectors, lower balljoints, and lower shock thru bolts. The huge hub nuts went next and then I pulled the hubs/upright away fron the axle shafts, the axle shafts from the diff, and then the axle shafts from the car. Crack the hub nuts loose before popping the ball joints! I then slid the x-member out from underneath with the floor jack.
At this point, I pulled the driveline. The exhaust midpipe, headers, and belly plate made their way to the part pile. The shifter has to go and the wiring harness that runs along the top of the torque tube needs to be unclipped and unpluged. Clutch line and TT-bellhousing bolts, and then the big pull. Keep it level as you disengage it from the clutch. Make sure it doesn't squash you. Serious.
After that, I just pulled the motor out the top. After removing all of the above as well as the hood, the intake, the fuel line, wiring harnesses, and rad hoses , it takes about 2 min to pull the motor from a C5.
Also: watch the brake lines/fuel lines inside the tunnel as you lower the driveline. The shifter box can get snagged and bend them to $hit.
Last edited by Its_Go_Time; 10-21-2009 at 11:27 PM.
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info and there is some good info in there but I want to drop both cradle's at the same time with everything connected. I know it can be done it's just a matter of getting the front area high enough.
#6
Burning Brakes
You're a better man than me if you can do that in your home garage! Good luck, and let us know how you do it!
#7
Drifting
Well, I have done it, but I won't say its easy. I had the front about 24 inches off the ground, with the intake off and a dolly to drop the engine on to it can be done. Keep the torque tube attached to the engine, it will help you to guide and balance the engine as you drop it. With out the torque tube attached it is easier to lift it out the top because of balance and support issues. I still had big issues with the EBCM clearance with power steering pump, and clearance of the AC compressor. If you drop the EBCM with the front cross member you will have to bleed the brake system latter. With the heads attached the AC compressor is going to be a problem. Not sure how to get around it without removing the compressor. Otherwise its a lot like taking it out the top. Dropping the whole thing makes reassembly of the torque tube and engine easier.
Get some 6 ton jack stands, the bigger the better because they have a large base which will make the car more stable. A lift is better. But, don't try it on small jack stands as the base is not large and will not be stable enough for me to crawl under.
Thats about as much help as I can be LOL...
Get some 6 ton jack stands, the bigger the better because they have a large base which will make the car more stable. A lift is better. But, don't try it on small jack stands as the base is not large and will not be stable enough for me to crawl under.
Thats about as much help as I can be LOL...
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well, I have done it, but I won't say its easy. I had the front about 24 inches off the ground, with the intake off and a dolly to drop the engine on to it can be done. Keep the torque tube attached to the engine, it will help you to guide and balance the engine as you drop it. With out the torque tube attached it is easier to lift it out the top because of balance and support issues. I still had big issues with the EBCM clearance with power steering pump, and clearance of the AC compressor. If you drop the EBCM with the front cross member you will have to bleed the brake system latter. With the heads attached the AC compressor is going to be a problem. Not sure how to get around it without removing the compressor. Otherwise its a lot like taking it out the top. Dropping the whole thing makes reassembly of the torque tube and engine easier.
Get some 6 ton jack stands, the bigger the better because they have a large base which will make the car more stable. A lift is better. But, don't try it on small jack stands as the base is not large and will not be stable enough for me to crawl under.
Thats about as much help as I can be LOL...
Get some 6 ton jack stands, the bigger the better because they have a large base which will make the car more stable. A lift is better. But, don't try it on small jack stands as the base is not large and will not be stable enough for me to crawl under.
Thats about as much help as I can be LOL...
#9
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
EXCELLENT POST!
BC
BC
#10
[QUOTE=Its_Go_Time;1571899606]I did this a couple of years ago. I started changing a clutch and ended up pulling the engine as well to change out the cam, chain, and rod bolts.
QUOTE]
Haha thats funny I needed a new clutch in my 97' and decided I was bored with the car so I completely stripped and gutted it. Now its getting a 25.5 spec roll cage, 434 inch LSX motor with 12* Warhawk heads and a big dose of the ol' nitrous.
QUOTE]
Haha thats funny I needed a new clutch in my 97' and decided I was bored with the car so I completely stripped and gutted it. Now its getting a 25.5 spec roll cage, 434 inch LSX motor with 12* Warhawk heads and a big dose of the ol' nitrous.
#11
Race Director
Lots of stuff to disconnect and hang the ABS block to the side as well the air compressor.
I removed the air conditioner piping at the firewall and condensor. It made the job much easier.
I also have a (4) post lift.
I removed the air conditioner piping at the firewall and condensor. It made the job much easier.
I also have a (4) post lift.
#13
Race Director
Here are a few pics of my fun with the rear cradle.
The wheel dollies used on the brake calipers should help the whole assy move easy once its down:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...y.php?cat=1386
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...at/1244/page/1
Search is your friend......here is 1 links to what you want to do:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o-650rwhp.html
The wheel dollies used on the brake calipers should help the whole assy move easy once its down:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...y.php?cat=1386
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...at/1244/page/1
Search is your friend......here is 1 links to what you want to do:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o-650rwhp.html
#14
I have done what you are wanting with a lift and a cart that I made.
I imagine you could do it with the way you are talking about, just without the cart.
Heres a couple pics and a link to a little site I made that shows the basic proccess.
Website with proccess
I imagine you could do it with the way you are talking about, just without the cart.
Heres a couple pics and a link to a little site I made that shows the basic proccess.
Website with proccess
#16
All I did was measure the distance between the holes on the cradles, build the basic cart, then lowered the car close to it and tacked the posts lined up with the holes. Pulled it back out and welded it.
I will add a little sketch with measurements later today when I get home.
#17
Race Director
I dont have the exact dimensions but I can measure it when I go to my shop later today.
All I did was measure the distance between the holes on the cradles, build the basic cart, then lowered the car close to it and tacked the posts lined up with the holes. Pulled it back out and welded it.
I will add a little sketch with measurements later today when I get home.
All I did was measure the distance between the holes on the cradles, build the basic cart, then lowered the car close to it and tacked the posts lined up with the holes. Pulled it back out and welded it.
I will add a little sketch with measurements later today when I get home.