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Hey, getting ready for Pink's All Out. I'm gonna hose the motor down with 150 shot and expect the car to run deep into the 10's. Now, I've got to put in a 5 point bar and want to know who might have done that and if you have some pics? Also, where did you purchase your 5 point cage at? I searched but couldn't find any installs.I appreciate any info you might have.
Hey, getting ready for Pink's All Out. I'm gonna hose the motor down with 150 shot and expect the car to run deep into the 10's. Now, I've got to put in a 5 point bar and want to know who might have done that and if you have some pics? Also, where did you purchase your 5 point cage at? I searched but couldn't find any installs.I appreciate any info you might have.
thanks greg
Find a local fabricator and have it done by a professional. It will cost more than the pre-fab stuff from places like Wolfe, but it will be safer and look nicer.
I'm still on the fence with that one, I need to get the car out next month for some testing to see where we stand before we spray it. We don't have any local chassis shops in the area. thanks for your input
Find a local fabricator and have it done by a professional. It will cost more than the pre-fab stuff from places like Wolfe, but it will be safer and look nicer.
The bolt in wolfe racecraft bar will get you through tech just fine.. but to be honest it wont save your bacon in a roll over. The bars are held in my sandwiching the balsa wood floor between 2 pieces of metal... I had the wolfe bar, but will go with a welded bar next time.
DRM, LG, Pfadt, Autopower all make roll bars that will actually function as roll bars if worst comes to worst. Those are all 4-point although you can always get more tubing to add to their designs.
Agreed on pro install, ask road racers in your area about the shop that does the work for them. Barring that, a competent welder with some patience will do, although you may have to help him with clearing out the interior and possibly removing the gas tank.
the stuff that bolts to the floor gives you all the inconviniences of having a roll bar without most of the benefits
My brother and I built one for my car last year. Did a 6 point.
We did 4 points permanent in the back. And then used swingout clevises to pin the door bars in. The don't swing out, but I can remove the door bars for daily driving and pin them in for track days.
The bolt in wolfe racecraft bar will get you through tech just fine.. but to be honest it wont save your bacon in a roll over. The bars are held in my sandwiching the balsa wood floor between 2 pieces of metal... I had the wolfe bar, but will go with a welded bar next time.
If you just need it for the formality of passing tech inspection, the Wolfe bar is the easiest and most econmical route. However, if you plan to continue increasing power and, hence, lowering your quarter times, it would be wise to look into a welded unit before going much faster.
check NHRA rules and the track rules to be shure, My local track will not alow bolt in cage in corvettes running in the mid 10s they sited NHRA rules. better to be safe than sorry
check NHRA rules and the track rules to be shure, My local track will not alow bolt in cage in corvettes running in the mid 10s they sited NHRA rules. better to be safe than sorry
Actually NHRA rules state that cars without a frame can use a 6" square plate 1/8" thick to bolt the cage to the car.
Thanks for clearing that up, As i said check rules!! I would rather follow the rules on building cage or instaling a prefab rollbar to me that is the most important part of car. My C5 is in the High 12s so i dont have that problem. If i want to go fast i will pull out my full tube chassie stang runs mid 9s !!!!!!!!!!!!!!But i would rather look good in a corvette than go fast in a mustang!!! I must be gettin old lol
You should get a copy of the official rule book. They spec the position of the side bars as well, something like it had pass between the shoulder and elbow.
There's other things like seat belts etc.
I think I got mines free from summit, but I don't know if it's free with an order or its just free fron NHRA. They used to charge for it once upon a time.
Corvettes have a frame. So any and all attachments need to be to the frame. The rule above is for a unibody car. The car will still pass most techs. Each track will vary on how tightly they enforce the rules. The faster you go, the more detailed of an inspection you will get.
I dont think the C5 has a traditional frame like a chevelle..
There really isnt much to weld the door bars to without fabrication
I have talked to builders who have had lots of discussions with the NHRA officials. I went through all of this when I was looking into a rollbar for my vert. There is a frame and it is just as beefy as the Chevelle frame. The second picture is the Corvette frame. You just have to picture it w/o the drivetrain in it.
I've done several C5s, and a couple C6s. Here's a couple pictures. I install a lower bar between the outer frame, and tunnel, and prop the hoop on top of that.
Targa top still fits. Rearward bars are to the frame rails.
Door bar clearance before being cut out for swing outs.
I've talked with our local NHRA tech, who's certified a few cars for me. I had him out to look over the very first C5 I did years ago. At the time we were thinking about a mini hoop on top of the bulk head behind the seats. He said emphatically "NO!" To be completely legal, the roll bar must attach to the car BELOW your butt. It must "encompass" the driver. It must be attached to the steel structure. If the floor were steel it could be attached there, either by welded 6 inch square plates, 1/8th in thick, or sandwiched 6 inch square plates, bolted by 4 3/8ths bolts, grade 8 I believe. But, because the floor is NOT steel, it cannot be secured there. Anyone that has one and has passed tech, the tech guy didn't know what he was looking at.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Feb 25, 2010 at 03:16 PM.