0HinsonSuperCars

Simply send us your factory rockers and $199 and enjoy reliable operation for years to come. $199 includes the Comp Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade Kit, installation labor, and shipping back to you.

This is a very wise investment in your stock LS1/LS2 rocker arms. High rpm and high valve spring pressures can put the factory rocker arm’s trunion under intolerable stress. The factory needle bearings are replaced with caged roller bearings to increase rigidity & reliability. This will keep needle bearings from falling out everywhere in your engine. As proof of success, for the last two years this rocker arm trunion upgrade has been tested and performance-proven in the NASCAR GM LS spec engine series. This performance rocker arm modification is a “must have” upgrade for your LS1/LS2 factory rocker arms.

1. Mark each rocker arm (1-16) with a sharpie. This will insure the wear pattern will remain the same as before and that there will be no excessive noise after installation.

2. Send your rockers to the following address:
Hinson Motorsports
1500 Hueytown Rd.
Hueytown, AL 35023

3. Turnaround time is 1 business day. Express shipping is available if needed.


Parts


Installed

0HinsonSuperCars

For those wanting parts only.

Comp Cams LS1 Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade $129.95

0HinsonSuperCars

Thanks for your orders!

DeltaBravo

What's involved in a DIY project for these? It sounds like a good reliability upgrade for a reasonable price. Can you post installation instructions, or a link?

Dennis

81c3

I believe you need a press.

02EBZ06VA

x two

rustyguns

TSev1

x3 do you just press them in?

0HinsonSuperCars

Installation instructions are included with the kit. Here's a nice writeup from another member http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...n-install.html

Seth

David A

Why just LS1/LS2? Are the LS6 rocker arms different? Just not a benefit?

Thanks,
Dave

DeltaBravo

Thanks, Seth!

What's involved in taking the rockers off and then replacing them? Anything special, like tools? It's been a few decades since I did any engine work, so I'm a tad rusty. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Dennis

civlant

Socket wrench is all you need (and the right sized socket of course - I think it's an 8mm or close to it at least)

DeltaBravo

So, it's as simple as just un-bolting them, getting them upgraded, and then just bolting them back in with the new bolts, torqued properly of course? I don't have to worry about getting each cylinder to TDC before removing the rockers for that cylinder?

If this is all that's required, then it just sounds too easy, especially given that almost NOTHING is easy on the C5! This certainly sounds like cheap insurance, especially if it really is that simple!

Dennis

rustyguns

you need to work on more front wheel drive imports...talk about tuff ! and no fricken room!

civlant

Pretty much - the valves aren't going to drop because you're not removing the springs/retainers. When you unbolt the rocker the valve will shut due to the spring pressure. Putting them back on is just as easy. Just need to ensure they're centered over the valve stem and torque them down.

DeltaBravo

Rustyguns: I've worked on some ugly ones, but that was many years ago. Worst was changing oil in a Ford Futura with a 4-banger in it. Could not get to the oil filter without major contortions, cuss words, and adult beverages. Musta take over an hour to finally get it out and the new one back on.

Civlant: Thanks for the info. I might just do this when I get the time. After getting the dyno/street tune at EnglandGreen, I seem to be spending more time with my foot in it! This mod will help keep the engine together at 6K, which I'm seeing a LOT more often now.

Thanks to all!

Dennis

lucky131969

Not true. You don't every want to torque down rockers on an open valve. Bad practice.

DeltaBravo

Lucky,

If I understand your comment, then I should rotate the engine so that cylinders are at TDC before re-installing the rocker arms? Would that also hold true for removing them? It makes sense to me because I remember re-building a couple engines decades ago, and the heads were always taken off, which would put all valves at fully closed. Seems like torqueing the rockers would be more accurate if the valves were closed.

Does that sound right to any/everyone else? I don't want to screw something up doing this if I can avoid it by simply turning the engine over a few times with the starter.

Thanks,

Dennis

civlant

That may be your opinion but I don't see the need. I've done 3 different cam swaps this way, letting them run briefly, and then rechecking the torque values (still at 22). I understand that the GM manual says to ensure the valve is shut but like I said the torque values aren't changing so why not torque them all down at once?

Eric D

Lucky is 100% correct. It's not just Lucky's opinion; it is what the service manual spells out to do for good reasons. Suggesting to others to do it wrong is bad advice.