Originally Posted by mstrnad

Here you go Dan....

Originally Posted by mstrnad

Here are my pics of the AEM UEGO install. The UEGO is up and running, but I still have some things to complete, so this install is still progessing and a couple of things still needs to be complete before its complete.

UPDATE: I finally have a set of headers coming in, probably later this week, so I'll get the bung installed on the drive side header and then complete the UEGO install.

Step1)So the AEM UEGO needs a 10-18V power source and a ground for this install, and it has a couple more wires for other use. Like the blue wire can be used for logging to a hyperterminal or any AFR software. So, I had to think about what I'm going to use as my power and ground source, so I reverted to the forums and got my question answered by lucky131969(Thanks lucky). Below is the schematic of were its going:

I'll utilize the YEL and BLK wire for power and ground, I'm also going to change out the 20A fuse to a 10A to meet AEM UEGO requirements.


Step2) Pic of where the C206 connector is at: (Now you don't have to take out the fuse box like I did, I was trying to look for it(trace it), but should've looked elsewhere prior to taking it out)


Step3)For the next step, I essentially took the whole interior apart, and I followed the "How to install a HUD" guide to complete this step. This is the only way I knew, to route the wires from the UEGO unit to connector C206. This is what the car looked like after I took the interior apartThe arrows show the path I'll be taking the cables to the passenger side. I even zip tied to what looked like air tubes)


Step4) In order for the cables to reach, you'll have to stop at a local hardware store and buy 5 foot long wires, for the stock wires couldn't reach to connector C206. I also used shrink tubes to make thing look a little cleaner(wrap it with electrical tape and your ready to route).



Step5) Once you have the cables routed, unplug connector C206, and you'll see three wires(yellow, black, and orange) all taped together. I wired red(UEGO) to the YLW, and black(UEGO) to the BLK wire and shrink tubed them. I also put electrical tape around the orange wire and then taped it to the other two wires(I also plugged it in and turn the key to either ACC/ON to test to see if it worked):


Step6)Now its time for the bung connector. You'll have to drill a 1" hole in your firewall, and I've decided to drill right below the hood release. NOTE: To drill, I just unscrewed the driver wheel well to gain access for drilling. Also, for now, I left the bung connector sit on top of my motor until I get my exhaust so I can finish the routing. Once your down there you can imagine how to route it and the wires can be zipped tie to existing wires so it doesn't hit anything else.

Driver Wheel Well:


Driver interior under the hood release cables:


Step7)Its time to drill the pod into the pillar. For this I used painters tape to hold the pod onto the pillar and then drilled by following manufactures specs for the plugs, and drilled a 1" hole for the wires.



Step8) You can now start buttoning everything back up. Once you have your dash in, you can install the drivers A-Pillar and plug in the UEGO and your ready to go. I'll be taking more pictures once I finishing the rest of the install, like the exhaust and the blue data cable.

Partially Finished pics of the install:

Originally Posted by Zo6TT

is it on passangers side near glove box?? i thought there was an easier ignition and power source underneath steering column???

Originally Posted by Zo6TT

do i really have to remove the whole dash to install a boost gauge and AF ratio Gauge..??that seems very silly

Originally Posted by mstrnad

This probably was the easiest of everything I've done so far. I cannot wait until the day were I can store pens in my center console without them bursting.

So what I've done first was clean the original heat shield for the C5. So I just used warm water and 0000 steal pads.


Then I started making a template and outlining where I'm going to cut. I just used the heat shield to trace the lines. To cover the sides of the tunnel, I just allocated 4" of space. To "flap down" the DEI heat shield to bolt the C5 heat shield back to the car, I probably left maybe 1 1/2" of space.



Now there is two areas were you DO NOT want to remove the plastic. If you do, prepare for some swearing and kicking yourself in the a$$ for doing so, this stuff is sticky! The area were you do not want to take the plastic off is where the bolts originally go to hold up the heat shield and the outside(sides) of the heat shield. The only area is the center of the DEI heat shield were the C5 heat shield will go. Just make sure you apply the DEI stuff on the correct side of the C5 heat shield. I just looked at the C5 heat shield for scuff marks made by the bolts to figure out which side it goes on, or its the lip side up.




Installed on the car: