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MN6 tough to Shift

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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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Default MN6 tough to Shift

My shifter is a notchy SOB, there is no 1st bam to second bam to third.. It is more of a 1st-clack out clack in-2nd, clack out, clack in-3rd.

I added a Kirban SS shifter thinking maybe the stock shifter was a worn out POS. Now it takes a bit of muscle to go in, like a real tight ratchet, not smooth like my friends Z06 (shifts like warm butter). I know it is the MN12.

Car is a 2000 FRC with the MN6 72,550mi, I have a new Centerforce DF clutch and RAM fly wheel and all the other new parts that come with a clutch change. It goes into gear fine it is just really tough. I tried to space out the Detent, still tough. Is it my tranny or the shift box and linkage? Anyone had experience with this?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by deadcafe
I added a Kirban SS shifter thinking maybe the stock shifter was a worn out POS. Now it takes a bit of muscle to go in, like a real tight ratchet, not smooth like my friends Z06 (shifts like warm butter). I know it is the MN12.
The MN6 & the M12 are the same transmission, just different gears and minor differences in the synchronizer assemblies related to the production year differences. Those differences should not affect your shifting effort. I have a 2001 MN6 with a stock shifter that "shifts like warm butter" as you would say.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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I disliked mine. So the hunt began. New shifter. Nope. Swapped to Royal Purple Sychomesh, got better but wasn't what I was looking for. What did it for me was the antivenom mod. But I see you tried to space the detent. Maybe not enough? You can get to the point where it's way too loose. I also observed that the ball on the end of my detent bolt was frozen. I cleaned it up and lubed it well and in my hand the ball rolled around and pushed in much easier. I haven't heard of anyone else recommending lubing the detent ball so I can't say if it's an issue or not. I can say though I ended up with a shifter I don't despise anymore.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Camjamsdad
I disliked mine. So the hunt began. New shifter. Nope. Swapped to Royal Purple Sychomesh, got better but wasn't what I was looking for. What did it for me was the antivenom mod. But I see you tried to space the detent. Maybe not enough? You can get to the point where it's way too loose. I also observed that the ball on the end of my detent bolt was frozen. I cleaned it up and lubed it well and in my hand the ball rolled around and pushed in much easier. I haven't heard of anyone else recommending lubing the detent ball so I can't say if it's an issue or not. I can say though I ended up with a shifter I don't despise anymore.
I will look into it. I am just tired of the effort it takes to click it into gear I almost wonder if there is an issue with my Gear box.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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I had a shifting issue and someone suggested I realign the shifter. Didn't help. Someone else suggested I bleed the master, and although it was a b***h, it solved the problem. Also gave me the incentive to install a remote bleeder, which works wonderfully.
This may not be your problem, just a thought.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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How many miles on it? Change your trans fluid, I recommend Amsoil ATD. Do not use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, it is not compatible with 1997-2000 paper blocker rings.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyVette396
I had a shifting issue and someone suggested I realign the shifter. Didn't help. Someone else suggested I bleed the master, and although it was a b***h, it solved the problem. Also gave me the incentive to install a remote bleeder, which works wonderfully.
This may not be your problem, just a thought.
How did you bleed it without the remote bleeder?

I would look into aligning the shifter as well as changing the transmission fluid. Those are very easy/cheap things to do.

I would also look into bleeding the clutch system. Search for the Ranger method.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by deadcafe
My shifter is a notchy SOB, there is no 1st bam to second bam to third.. It is more of a 1st-clack out clack in-2nd, clack out, clack in-3rd.

I added a Kirban SS shifter thinking maybe the stock shifter was a worn out POS. Now it takes a bit of muscle to go in, like a real tight ratchet, not smooth like my friends Z06 (shifts like warm butter). I know it is the MN12.

Car is a 2000 FRC with the MN6 72,550mi, I have a new Centerforce DF clutch and RAM fly wheel and all the other new parts that come with a clutch change. It goes into gear fine it is just really tough. I tried to space out the Detent, still tough. Is it my tranny or the shift box and linkage? Anyone had experience with this?
Did the problem start AFTER the new clutch?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Edmond
How did you bleed it without the remote bleeder?

I would look into aligning the shifter as well as changing the transmission fluid. Those are very easy/cheap things to do.

I would also look into bleeding the clutch system. Search for the Ranger method.
Gotta remove the exhaust midpipe and the lower bellhousing. Definitely recommend using a lift! Hook up a power bleeder to the master then work your hand up into the area where the slave is. Can't remember if the bleeder nut is 3/8 or 7/16. If you have enough patience to get a wrench on it and crack it open, let the fluid flow till it's perfectly clear. Close the bleed screw and you're done.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyVette396
Gotta remove the exhaust midpipe and the lower bellhousing. Definitely recommend using a lift! Hook up a power bleeder to the master then work your hand up into the area where the slave is. Can't remember if the bleeder nut is 3/8 or 7/16. If you have enough patience to get a wrench on it and crack it open, let the fluid flow till it's perfectly clear. Close the bleed screw and you're done.
At this point how hard would it be to install a remote bleeder set up?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyVette396
Gotta remove the exhaust midpipe and the lower bellhousing. Definitely recommend using a lift! Hook up a power bleeder to the master then work your hand up into the area where the slave is. Can't remember if the bleeder nut is 3/8 or 7/16. If you have enough patience to get a wrench on it and crack it open, let the fluid flow till it's perfectly clear. Close the bleed screw and you're done.
Is it a problem to remove the bellhousing with the Torque tube still in place?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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The torque tube is attached to the bellhousing.

The lower bellhousing, sometimes called the inspection cover, can be removed with the torque tube still attached. It's a 2 piece set.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Edmond
The torque tube is attached to the bellhousing.

The lower bellhousing, sometimes called the inspection cover, can be removed with the torque tube still attached. It's a 2 piece set.
Lower inspection cover off still wouldnt be able to install a remote bleeder!

Mario

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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:20 AM
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I didn't say it would.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Edmond
I didn't say it would.
OK!

I was letting the OP know not to waste his time.

Thanks!

Mario
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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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Why do you keep yelling with all the ! ?
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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I have decided to try first things first, I am going to replace the gearbox and shifter, I see nothing but Lauds for the RSD snap shifter, I did a ranger fluid swap still notchy, I am sure the car was driven hard (with the stock shifter) prior to me buying it. It was also brought to my attention there are guide bushings that wear out we will see what happens.. At the very lease I will have a bad a$$ shifter LOL.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by deadcafe
I have decided to try first things first, I am going to replace the gearbox and shifter, I see nothing but Lauds for the RSD snap shifter, I did a ranger fluid swap still notchy, I am sure the car was driven hard (with the stock shifter) prior to me buying it. It was also brought to my attention there are guide bushings that wear out we will see what happens.. At the very lease I will have a bad a$$ shifter LOL.
To the tune of "first things first", change the trans fluid. This can make a BIG change in the way the trans shifts. About 5k miles ago I changed mine with Dex 6. What a difference! The trans now shifts better than when I first got the car. Before the fluid change I truly thought I'd be changing my trans it shifted so lousy.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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I have a C6 shifter and love it. It's smooth and easy. No more muscling the car into gear. Buy a used one with **** for about $130 shipped.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
To the tune of "first things first", change the trans fluid. This can make a BIG change in the way the trans shifts. About 5k miles ago I changed mine with Dex 6. What a difference! The trans now shifts better than when I first got the car. Before the fluid change I truly thought I'd be changing my trans it shifted so lousy.
Is dex VI safe for the earlier C5's?
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