Rohan

And if so what weight and what have your results been? I've read a couple posts about oil analysis that say Mobil 1 is letting the engine wear too much. Looking for a good oil to keep wear to a minimum. I have a lot of money invested in this new motor.

Thanks,
Scott

lucky131969

Don't put too much stock in the forum scientists. You can run Mobil 1 with confidence.

Rohan

I'm glad you're here Lucky, I have another question. I live in Louisiana and it's been getting freakin hot here. Do I continue to run 5W-30 as stated on the fill cap or is there something else I should be using? Thanks for all the info!

-Scott

ipuig

RP is not a good choice if you're still running cats.

Rohan

Not running cats. Here's my specs:

(Lingenfelter Performance Engineering)

Engine removal, inspection and disassembly
Lingenfelter CNC porting and polishing of LS6 cylinder heads
Lingenfelter Design Competition Cams 228 / 232 .600 / .600 112 LSA Cam
Competition Cams Double Roller Timing Set
Competition Cams Hi-Tech 7.400 Pushrods
Lunati double valve springs, titanium retainers, 10 degree locks & valve seals
2.02" / 1.57" stainless steel intake/exhaust valves
Three angle valve job, set correct spring tensions & heights
Mahle forged pistons
Moldex Viper crankshaft
Viper main caps
Tri-Armor bearings
Manley I-Beam forged connecting rods
Port matched ZO6 intake manifold
Ported & polished LS6 throttle body
LG Street polished longtube headers
Modified oil pump assembly
ATI Underdrive pulley kit with belts
Kirban shifter with C6 shift ****
Veraram cold air kit with Power Duct
Taylor plug wires
NGK TR55 plugs
FAST Precision Flow injectors
Lingenfelter professional installation, testing and pcm tuning

crainholio

My LS1 seems to like Mobil-1 10W-40 High Mileage synthetic in hot weather better than the thin stuff. Just a data point.

Rohan

I may give some 10-40 a try then.

lucky131969

Absolutely. Nothing wrong with 5W30, whether your in 100+ temps, or below zero. What brand of synthetic you choose is up to you, but 5W30 is not only appropriate, but it's also recommended in your owners manual. There is also a note in the owners manual to not use 20W50 or other grade oils, while 10W30 is permissible for climates that do not dip below zero.

For the average street car, and occasional drag racer, the factory recommendations are fine. If you plan on a dedicated race car for auto-x events, then you might consider other options for fluids, oiling system, etc.

I'm not an oil expert, and neither are 99.9% of the guys on this forum. What I do know, is the hype/discussion on oil is silly. Remember, before synthetic oil.....cars raced, tanks went into battle, aircraft flew around the world, etc.......all on non-synthetic oil. Todays engines last much longer than 30 years ago, and it has little to do with the oil....rather..it is directly related to engineering practices, statistical process control, and a quality system that is designed in.

Rohan

Great info! Thanks again for all the help!

Now, how do I close this thread so people will stay out...

crainholio

If you ever removed the valve covers from a 50K-mile or so engine run on conventional oil back in the 1970-1980 timeframe, you would know better than that. Hardened sludge caked on the interior of the covers even when the oil was changed religiously at 3K mile intervals.

lucky131969

Sorry, grew up working on small/big block chevys. Never had an engine with that condition. I did work on many with that condition, that did not observe regular oil change intervals....or were just plain neglected.

vettenuts

Yep, I did a valve job for someone in college to earn a few bucks and when I took off the valve cover it looked like a Jello mold with the Chrysler valve cover stamping molded into the top of the sludge. The rockers were actually running in enclosed pockets of sludge.

To the OP, I am running the GC 0W-30, I like the higher viscosity.

rich goepfrich

Back then it could have been because some oils were NON-DETERGENT, not the case today.

c.athey

My Vette was using a tiny bit of oil between changes. Switched to Valvoline Synthetic and now doesn't use a drop. My father raced dirt track (small block chevy's) and swore by Valvoline. The main thing is to keep clean oil in your car. I also use Napa Gold oil filters. Once you compare the quality of way filters are made, you will switch. They cost a little more, but well worth it.

Rohan

Thanks! I'll give the NAPA Gold a try and I think I'll run some 10-30 Mobil

MTPZ06

Wix filters are the same as NAPA gold if I'm not mistaken. I run 5-30 M1 in Fall/Winter and 10-30 M1 in Spring/Summer.

vettenuts

Not sure what the 10W-30 buys you over 5W-30, at 100 degrees C they have the same viscosity (nearly a 20W oil).

Mr.Bill

Royal Purple 5-30 and Wix filter used here, Never had any issues with Mobil 1, I get a good price on the RP, If I had to pay 8 to 9 bucks a qt for it, I would still be using Mobil 1...lol

099blancoss

We use and recommend Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil, as well their break in oil for engine customers.

crainholio

Agreed. The guy had posted that and my point was that "it" has a great deal to do with the oil.