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Just doing research for my potential build once the car is paid off. One route I would like to take is an all motor build. I'd like for a weekend cruiser that can take the abuse of upwards of 450rwhp. I am looking at some forged rotating assemblies and I am not completely familiar with all of the companies. I've heard good things about Eagle and I see that they produce a forged crank and rods. There are a few companies that make forged pistons though. Is there any one company to stay away from? Any bad builds directly resulted with using these parts from a particular manufacturer? Thanks for the help guys.
I am in the process of building a new forged and stroked LSX engine. I am using a Callies Dragon Slayer crank, Diamond coated piston, and Callies I-Beam rods. I am building a 454 cubic inch engine that I am expecting to push 1000 RWHP with a good supercharger.
You can easily get a reliable 450 rwhp out of a stock LS1 shortblock. According to the dyno I tested on, my stock 346 shortblock is putting down 470 rwhp and it now has 206k miles on it. Add some good heads (AFR or Trickflow) and mid to upper 22x° duration cam and supporting intake and headers and you will have your power goals. Of course if you want to build for the future, then do the forged shortblock, and I would suggest adding some volume with a 4" stroke crankshaft. The Eagle parts are considered bottom shelf, budget forgings, with CompStar maybe rated slightly higher. Both brands will serve well in street driven hot rods. For very high, boosted power you need to step up to domestic forgings like Callies, Lunati, Crower, etc. Both Diamond and Wiseco make excellent LS pistons.
When I built my 408, I ended up buying a forged rotating assembly from Texas Speed. You can save some money when buying the entire rotating assembly at one time. Keep in mind you will need to shell out some more money to balance it.
Excellent replies guys! And yes I would consider the build with a later possibility of forced induction. However, I love the brute force and idea of a ***** out SBC. Also I would like to keep my automatic and upgrade that to a level 4 with RPM. Actually before the build would start obviously. Thanks again, keep the responses and information coming
Eagle forged H-Beam rods and their forged 4" crank will support over 1000 HP with no problems...regardless of what Chevy 406 may think. I personally have JE -2* pistons with my forged setup.
What Chevy406 thinks is that he has rarely seen or heard of Eagle cranks or h-beam rods breaking. But then again, how many stock GM LS1 cranks have you seen or heard of breaking? The difference in budget cranks and higher end forgings is evident in balance and weight. It's not that the Eagle and Compstar can't handle 1000 hp, but that their extra weight stresses the main caps, block, and bearings. I used Eagle in my nitrous SBC up to 700 whp with zero problems. I am now using Compstar in my 408, but it is untested at this point. I use the parts that will acheive my power goals and budget. These "budget" rotating assemblies will work just fine for most of us "street" guys.
What Chevy406 thinks is that he has rarely seen or heard of Eagle cranks or h-beam rods breaking. But then again, how many stock GM LS1 cranks have you seen or heard of breaking? The difference in budget cranks and higher end forgings is evident in balance and weight. It's not that the Eagle and Compstar can't handle 1000 hp, but that their extra weight stresses the main caps, block, and bearings. I used Eagle in my nitrous SBC up to 700 whp with zero problems. I am now using Compstar in my 408, but it is untested at this point. I use the parts that will acheive my power goals and budget. These "budget" rotating assemblies will work just fine for most of us "street" guys.
Your right I have never heard of a 4" GM LS6 crank breaking,because they don't exist...I was obviously referring to a stroker assembly. I have made over two hundred pass on my budget Eagle rotating assembly with no issues,so lets just consider mine as being tested. I guarantee that there are numerous drag racers with far more power than what my setup produces that run Eagle forged assemblies. I'm not saying that Eagle makes the best product produced,but when you imply that a product is inferior based on your apparent lack of racing experience...then I call . When giving advice limit it to what you actually know through working knowledge and not based on what you may have read.
Edit, OP make your own decision as to what product meets your intended goals. All I can say is that Eagle will be a reliable (better than perceived) stroker assembly at a reasonable cost. No additional post will be forthcoming on this tread.
Last edited by 98vettedave; Oct 13, 2010 at 06:56 PM.
Wow - a lot of pent-up hostility my friend. If you will slow down and re-read my post you will see that I was agreeing with you, based on my "racing experience" with Eagle products.
Originally Posted by Chevy406
..rarely seen or heard of Eagle cranks or h-beam rods breaking
Originally Posted by Chevy406
It's not that the Eagle and Compstar can't handle 1000 hp...
Originally Posted by Chevy406
I used Eagle in my nitrous SBC up to 700 whp with zero problems
Originally Posted by Chevy406
These "budget" rotating assemblies will work just fine for most of us "street" guys.
I'll refrain from any negative comments. I suspect you simply misread my post as a personal attack, and for that I appologize.
Take it easy guys. The way I see it any of these forged parts will work better than the stock ones.
-Alex
Alex,
FWIW: I've been running an Eagle crank and rods for a while now. First with the 403. When VA Speed recently built the 427 Shawn reused the crank and rods because they were in great shape. Trust me, he wouldn't have if they were the least bit suspect. The 403 made 530/480 NA and the 427 is 577/530. Shawn did rebalance it for the 427 pistons. Infact, he balanced it with the flywheel and clutch attached which is a pretty neat trick.
Take it easy guys. The way I see it any of these forged parts will work better than the stock ones.
-Alex
Correct. Most anything forged will work just fine at street levels. ( some pistons don't fit well with some rods)
Its who builds them that makes the difference and how some parts get bad raps and some don't. Some have closer tolerances when leaving the factory and are less work for the builder... but your avg joe shmo garage expert doesn't have the machinery to be able to build it properly so they call the part junk. Then tuning tuning tuning...LOL Parts get a bad rap because they can't defend themselves against armchair experts..LOL