PYRO1

Have been having "Service Active handling, Service ABS, Service Traction control" reading on the DIC. This morning I pulled codes, several in history, all cleared except: ( DTC C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted)

What does this mean and where do I go with this, I have been reading about the module replacement, pissed that the 99 can't be rebuilt. Hope this is not what I need.

Thanks, Jeff

dgrant3830

Take the RF wheel off and you'll easily see the wires coming from the wheel hub assembly. Check this wire to insure its connected at the car properly and look for broken, chafed or shorted wires to the frame. Check the connector itself to insure its got clean contacts and so on. No, the hub is not rebuildable but you can get a high quality new one from AutoZone by Tiemkin. Good price and they work great if you need one.

PYRO1

Thanks, I'll check that and re-post!

Jeff

bmfrc

I can tell you from personal experience, make sure that 1233 corresponds to the FR wheel. I was getting 1226, which is for the RF wheel, but the code list I checked said it was for the LF wheel. I have since noticed anything relating to the wheel sensors with odd numbered odes (1225,1233,etc.) are referencing the left side of the vehicle, and even number codes are for the right side. Turned out my problem was just the cable between the sensor and the car. I cleaned and tightened the pins in the plugs for better contact and have since had no problems. You can check the hub by metering across the 2 pins on it for resistance, you should see 600 to 1300 ohms, if it is good. I doubt the sensor is bad, but it could be. Most likely, the problem is the cable....

Jim in Mich

Just a thought, a lot of times the sensor goes bad due to a bad wheel bearing assembly, the slop ruins the sensor. Jack up the car and give the wheel a shake, left and right, up and down, to see if it has slop in it. If you have to replace go with Timkin not the cheap China stuff.

dgrant3830

I agree...

PYRO1

I will check this, shouldn't be the bearing as I only have about 25K on the car, but I will check it while I'm looking around.

Thanks

Jeff

00Corvette

Make SURE that the "female" ends of the jumper wires have a good tight grip/connection on the "male" ends.

Get a pick and pry around to make sure none of the actual contacts inside the connectors on the jumper wire are loose.

You can bend the female end around to where it will "grab" the male end again real good.

Either this or the chafed, torn wires will cause your issue.

Most would get this code/issue immediately after hitting a pothole or bump in the road.

PYRO1

Pulled both front wheels, checked both for slop in wheel bearings. Both felt tight, no play. Ohm out both front sensors, both check around 1100 ohms. Pulled the connector harness that goes between the sensor and the chassis harness. Used a pick to pry the female terminals out to make a better connection, sprayed each end with electrical contact cleaner. Also checked both of these harnesses for continuity. All wires checked OK. Put everything back together and ran the codes again. Still showing the C1233 HC code. Ran through the codes in manual and tried to reset this code to no avail. Still shows 1 code in the 28-Traction Control System, C1233 HC.

Took the car down the road & got down on it in 1st gear, tires broke loose, traction control is not working, also stomped the brakes, ABS is not working either.

Now what? Maybe pull the rear tires and check them even though it says RF?

Thanks for your help in advance, Jeff

Jim in Mich

I'm stumped, sorry.

dgrant3830

I would think your wheel speed sensor is done. About the only thing you can do short of having a Tech 2 is to replace the wheel bearing/hub assembly.

00Corvette

If it were me, I would take that jumper harness off one more time.

Get a SINGLE "male" connection piece that is the same as the one in the jumper harness.



You're going to have to break some electrical connector apart to get just the male part out of it.

Then I'd take a pair of needle nose pliers and make sure that the "female" end is gripping the male end good and tight.


Only reason I'd do this first before swapping out the whole wheel bearing is if you ohmed it out AND you make sure it's getting a good connection when it's connected.

You've eliminated everything but the sensor in the wheel hub itself.

The hazard switch I know has little contacts inside that can be used but again you'll have to break apart whatever electrical connector you end up using to get to the little male/female connectors individually.

00Corvette

I just don't know of many of the actual bearings/hubs going bad.

However the jumper harness and connectors are a very common issue.

If your hubs are good and tight when you 'rocked' the tire(car lifted off the ground) and you're not tracking or haven't been tracking the car...I doubt your bearing itself is bad.

Cratecruncher

My gut tells me its likely a connector problem also. You'll want to check all the connectors all the way back to the main BTCM connector for bad pins or wear. Check the resistance of each wire on either side of the connector with the harnesses connected together.

Before you replace the hub try this. I think right hand and left hand hub/sensors are the same part number. The front is different from rear though. Try switching the bearing/sensor assemblies from right to left to confirm a bad sensor if the code migrates with the part.

EDIT: I confirmed it. Front hubs are interchangeable. Symmetry is your friend!

PYRO1

What do I have to do to do this?

Jeff

Cratecruncher

After removing the brake caliper, bracket, and rotor the hub/sensor assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with three bolts. It just pops out as a complete unit. Most of the bolts have important torquing requirements for safety but that's about the only difficult part. If after putting it all together and driving it you get a code on the same side you know it's not the sensor and saved yourself $260 bucks!

PYRO1

I may make me a jump harness that will allow me to cross the wires instead of moving the hubs, just a thought?

Jeff

lucky131969

I disagree. The voltage output from the WSS can be evaluated with a meter.

dgrant3830

I agree with you Lucky. It certainly can be done if he knows what he's looking at. I myself do not know what signals to expect and at what levels based upon the speed of rotation...so I would guess the OP wouldn't either. Since I don't know, I'm suggesting the only things I can unless he's got access to a Tech 2 and the procedure. Please, if you know what to look for and you very possibly do as I know you're pretty sharp, please tell him what to check for.

lucky131969

Hook up a multimeter to the WSS connector....set to the AC scale. Rotate the wheel as fast as you can, while watching the meter. Should be more than 100mV .