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DIY Procedure - C5 Rear Differential Fluid change.

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Old 05-24-2013, 06:20 PM
  #21  
C66 Racing
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Not to jump on Toque's thread, but sharing info that some may find of benefit:

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:27 PM
  #22  
Toque
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Originally Posted by C66 Racing
Not to jump on Toque's thread, but sharing info that some may find of benefit:

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
Drop in anytime Brad !

Toque
Old 05-27-2013, 09:39 AM
  #23  
C66 Racing
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Thanks Mark.

Now if I'd actually have read this whole thread (like I did today), I would have realized that this wasn't a new thread, but your original thread resurfaced from years ago... with my offer already above. Oh well. A bump for your DIY tutorial if nothing else.
Old 05-27-2013, 11:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by C66 Racing
Thanks Mark.

Now if I'd actually have read this whole thread (like I did today), I would have realized that this wasn't a new thread, but your original thread resurfaced from years ago... with my offer already above. Oh well. A bump for your DIY tutorial if nothing else.


Toque
Old 11-23-2014, 01:08 PM
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IRON MAIDEN
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Toque, are your pages still around?
Old 11-23-2014, 02:09 PM
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MAJ_Charlie
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Here you go.

http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html
Old 11-23-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CPT_Charlie
Thanks. The link above didn't work. I have a new laptop and don't have it saved but now I do.

Was going to change the engine, trans, and diff fluids today but ended up just getting the engine and diff. Too damn expensive!!! Will change the trans fluid when I drop the TT do put the new Monster clutch in. I went with the Amsoil Severe Gear @ $16.99 a bottle!!!
I'm planning on either buying a new diff or having this one rebuilt with 3.90s when I do the clutch so kind of a shame to only run this expensive fluid for a month or three! But... gives me a chance to try it out. I have a slight screech type noise from my back end and hoping this solves it.
Old 11-24-2014, 08:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
Toque, are your pages still around?
Still here...
Just busy as heck with work.

Main page of my web page is www.ToqueZ06.com

Hope it can help you out in some way.

Toque
Old 11-24-2014, 08:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CPT_Charlie
Thanks for the help Charlie !

Toque
Old 11-25-2014, 09:37 PM
  #30  
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Fyi, fluid pumps are stocked by Advance Auto - current price locally is $5.99. Essential for tranny and rear end end fills. Bought mine originally to deal with my K1500 tranny and transfer box. Just used it today to change the MN6 tranny fluid in the C5. .

Still a PITA though, to get a gallon of Dex III into the C5, lying under the car pumping away. At least on the K1500 you don't have to raise it - just roll on under there.

Wallies BTW, have a good by the gallon price on brand name Dex III/Merc either Valvoline or Castrol. And their Mobil 1 High Mileage 5qt jugs are a good price too.

Including the Subaru Leggie GT, that's all three of our vehicles' fluids changed from nose to tail in the last few days. Mobil syn Delvac 75-90, beloved of Porsche addicts and ideal for the Subie front transaxle is expensive though - around $50/gallon - but at least that included P&P. All vehicles ready for winter now. Just as well as we are supposed to get 6" of snow tomorrow.

Last edited by jackthelad; 11-25-2014 at 09:43 PM.
Old 11-26-2014, 07:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
I went with the Amsoil Severe Gear @ $16.99 a bottle!!!
Drop me a PM next time around and I should be able to make that a little less painful (see offer above).
Old 11-26-2014, 12:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by C66 Racing
Drop me a PM next time around and I should be able to make that a little less painful (see offer above).
I still need to do the transmission. Was gonna grab the Torque-Drive fluid but decided to wait. I have a 97' 6speed. I remember last time I changed it, I was reading something about paper blockers??? Something about not using synthetics in these early MN6 trans?
Old 11-26-2014, 12:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
I still need to do the transmission. Was gonna grab the Torque-Drive fluid but decided to wait. I have a 97' 6speed. I remember last time I changed it, I was reading something about paper blockers??? Something about not using synthetics in these early MN6 trans?
I've read that too, i.e. don't use synthetics on the early cars. However, when I had transmission work (oil leak) done under under warranty on my '98, the dealer recommended a MN6 fill with Mobil 1 synthetic Dex III - this was back around 2001. Stuck with it since, with no obvious synchro issues, but since they don't make it any more (Mobil1 is now Dex VI compliant and you do not want to use that), I decided to go back to non syn, so I used Valvoline Dex III/Merc for the last change.

If it would stop snowing (did the oil change yesterday, snow today), I could report on any shifting differences, though I doubt there will be any. Quite honestly, I never noticed the difference between the factory fill and the Mobil1 when they did it.
Old 11-26-2014, 12:39 PM
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I used the Valvoline on my last change, been fine.
One thing I will say about Amsoil. I bought a brand new 02' Dodge Ram back in Oct 01'.
After 10K miles, I put Amsoil in the motor, trans, and diff.
I have never changed my trans fluid since!!! 90K miles now! I know, shame on me. It's been on my to do list for the last 40K miles!!!
But believe it or not, never a problem. Shifts perfect. And this is a trans known to crap out at 60-80K.
Old 11-26-2014, 01:12 PM
  #35  
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Very detailed and nicely documented!! WELL DONE!

The ONLY thing that I will add that I have seen that goes wrong is:

The drain plug contains a small aluminum sealing washer. It sometimes STICKS to the housing and falls off into the drain pan during the drain period. DO NOT install the drain plug without the little washer!

DO NOT Over fill the differential. If the car is level, allow it to drain out any over fill.

Hope this helps!

Bill C
Old 11-26-2014, 04:20 PM
  #36  
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Wow...is it really that simple?

Looks almost the same process as changing the gear lube in my outboard, and that takes me about 10 minutes.

Looks like some ramps and jack stands are in my future...

Now...what about a transmission fluid change?
Old 11-26-2014, 06:46 PM
  #37  
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LOL! Same deal.. The drain is on the passengers side and fill port is on the drivers side. The FILL PORT is well labled.

Drain the trans, reinstall the plug. Open the fill port (C5 ZO6 will have a temp sensor in the fill port) and pump in the ATF till it flows out of the fill port.

I use a quality ATF. If you have a 97-2000 C5, use a NON Synthetic ATF. You can use AMSOIL Torque Drive AFT

If you have a 2001 C5, any synthetic or non synthetic can be used. I perfer synthetic ATF.

Bill

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Old 11-26-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jackthelad
(Mobil1 is now Dex VI compliant and you do not want to use that)
Why not?
Old 11-26-2014, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
LOL! Same deal.. The drain is on the passengers side and fill port is on the drivers side. The FILL PORT is well labled.

Drain the trans, reinstall the plug. Open the fill port (C5 ZO6 will have a temp sensor in the fill port) and pump in the ATF till it flows out of the fill port.

I use a quality ATF. If you have a 97-2000 C5, use a NON Synthetic ATF. You can use AMSOIL Torque Drive AFT

If you have a 2001 C5, any synthetic or non synthetic can be used. I perfer synthetic ATF.

Bill
If it's that simple then it makes me sick to think that the dealer wants to charge me $149.99...

You don't have to drop a pan or anything? Just two plugs for an entire trans fluid change?

I know I could do 90% of the stuff that you guys do...I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I'm just not a mechanic so I've never done it before.

Just looking at Toque's page on changing rotors...I never thought it would be as simple as pulling the wheel, two bolts for the caliper, take the rotor off, and repeat the process. I'm afraid that this realization is going to end up costing me a TON of money...........LOL......

Last edited by jjaaam; 11-26-2014 at 08:44 PM.
Old 11-26-2014, 08:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jjaaam
If it's that simple then it makes me sick to think that the dealer wants to charge me $149.99...


PLEASE!!! If your going to respond, Learn to spell it correctly.... Its STEALERSHIP!

LOL! Yes,, They will take advantage of the un-suspecting owner at EVERY OPPORTUNITY.... Its $$$$$$ in the till!!!

I have NEVER trusted the STEALERSHIP! Not even during the GM Warranty Period!

They will SCREW YOU at every opportunity!

BC


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