n8dogg

I'm sorry to hear about your problems. Hope you get your unit back soon!

Redeasysport

Thanks for the update They should not be advertising repair for it if they can't do it. It is only a Bosch 5.3 unit many of them out there you would think someone could fix it. I will( and many others I am sure ) be waiting for your next post.

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/bosch53.php

http://www.cheapabs.com/vrother.html

Bill Dearborn

That relay is only one of a lot of things that could happen to an ABS module. Replacing it only fixes faults related to the system voltage provided to the BPMV and does not do anything for voltage issues in the EBCM itself or any other component in the EBCM. Since these components are not simple transistors but complicated circuits themselves the data to make new ones is restricted and the foundries may not be interested in producing the aged technology. They tell their customer this part will no longer be available after this date. Make a life time buy or redesign into our new technology. If you don't have 100s of millions of dollars business with them you are at their mercy.

Somebody would have to redesign the circuit into newer technology which means thousands of dollars spent on testing in cars to make sure the performance is the same as the original. This is the fate of all cars built using this technology. ECUs, EBCMs, BCMs will all become obsolete and impossible to purchase.

Bill

Nowayman

I received my 2000 EBCM with active handling back from Automotive Scientific, Inc. (also known as "www.autoecu.com" or "Auto and Truck Electronics") at 212 East Washington St, Rogersville, Tennessee, 37857. They charged me $525 with shipping. Before I sent them my module, I marked each electronic component on the circuit board with a white dot of liquid paper. When I received the module back, there were no new components; all the components still hand my marks. There was evdience that all the solder connects on the board had been resoldered. I paid a shop $100 to reinstall my module and clear the codes. I still have a solenoid failure code. $525 out the window. Still not fixed.

I'm going to lodge a complaint with Automotive Scientific, Inc. since they had told me in advance that they would be replacing components on my board, and they did not. I belive that $500 is an excessive price to resolder the circuit board.

bighank

I was recently told that some failures were a result of the fluid in the ABS pump section becoming less volitile and causing the pump to shut down. The solution was to jumper the pump slowly at first, just a second or two to start, then as the fluid starts to flow and break up for longer and longer cycles up to a minute to clear up the fluid at the pump.
Can someone provide details on what steps to take to do this or point to a post that describes the procedure?

10.5Vette

There was a post, if I can find the link I will add it. What you can do, and what I do, is "exercise" it occasionally. Get going about 40 or so on a back road and hammer the brake pedal, setting off the ABS. There are obviously ways to exercise the active handling on the road, especially during light rain. But if you are uncomfortable with this you can jack the back of the car up and allow the rear wheels to rotate slowly, you should see the "active handling active" message show up in the DIC. That means the pump is running.

bighank

Does anyone have info on what to jumper as this would seem simpler than trying to do panic stops or get the wheels off the ground?

dougbfresh

This might be easier!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...bs-system.html

Nowayman

I sent mine to Automotive Scientific, Inc. WWW.AUTOECU.COM (aka ATE, or Auto and Truck Electronics). $800 later, I still have C1272 code on my 2000 with active handling. Part no. 09360921. The ABS pump checks out fine. My mechanic had a brand new EBTCM that he uses for diagonsitic purposes. When he installed it on my car, I had no codes. So we know the EBTCM is the problem. I have filed a dispute with my credit card company for the $500 faulty repair. I have filed a complaint with Chevrolet customer service. They called me back to refer me to Napaonline.com and pepboys.com. Can you believe that?!

I filed a complaint today with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). I suggest we all do!!! Instructions below.

Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 1:03 PM
Subject: FW: Can you tell me what department at FHWA or what branch of the Federal Government handles automobile safety?

Thank you for contacting the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) concerning filing a complaint on your vehicle. You can file your complaint and obtain a complete listing of recalls, investigations and complaints for your inquiry on the NHTSA website www.safercar.gov. When you enter the site please navigate as follows:

• www.safercar.gov

• Select - Vehicle Owners

• Select a category – File a Complaint,

• Chose and complete the online or portable form and NHTSA will receive an electronic version of your report.

You can also search safety recalls, defect investigations or search complaints in our database.

When you chose Safety Recalls on the next page select “Search For a Recall.”
Otherwise follow the instructions on the screen.

• Search Selected Type – vehicle, equipment, tires, child seat

• Select Model Year

• Select Make

• Select Model

• Select Component

• Retrieve Recalls, Investigations or Complaints information

• Document Search (provides all public documents pertinent to the recall, investigation or complaint)

I hope you find this information useful and thank you again for contacting NHTSA.

Randy Reid, Chief
Correspondence Research Division

stonecoldsaysto

ABS/Active Handling etc etc etc
With all the money We all paid General Motors for Our Corvette's (& other models) You would think they would at least listen to its buyers, but they really don't seem to give a Hoot about Our problems. My 99 Convert has these problems, & i was about to sell it -- but Keep the Hope that someone will find a way to get around this problem. GM can do it --but doesnt want to spend a single dime to solve the electrical issues. GMSUX.COM & other sites like it will eventually chase Buyers to other makes ! (May/B) ?!

Bill Dearborn

Why should GM pay good money to redesign a 12 year old car? No other company would do that so don't think you can jump to some other one. By the way nobody else makes anything to compete with the car you have so good luck finding that company.

Bill

castiman

What GM should do though is at the least still offer the part. I have a cousin who has a 63 split window vette that he can still get parts for. That's a 48 year old car.

fevest

It's a 48 year old car with minimal electrics. I also would think most of the parts come from aftermarket rather than the chevy dealer.

10.5Vette

Like other people have posted I'm surprised no aftermarket or rebuild vendor has stepped up to this. Seems like a money making proposition. Either rebuild or find a way to adapt the later version.

The Wrench

Just to add some comments about the dragging/stalling motor.
When the motor in the BPMV gets "draggy" it pulls much more current through the relay in the EBCM. This can probably lead to failure in the EBCM, to add to the motor problem in the BPMV.
There are many posts herein on the motor excercising ritual, to try to keep the high current loads under control, and stop the 1243 code from setting.
My 2000 motor has been sporadically setting the 1243 code for several years; I've not tried the jacking-up approach, with the thinking that both that method and the "drive-it-like-you-stole-it" method may get the motor to work again, but will put excessive current load on the circuit in the EBCM until/if the motor decides to loosen up. My approach has been to separate the modules and get a 12V wire to the Pin #8 in the BPMV. This will run the motor with no possible damage to the EBCM.
I got tired of the 3-hour job of separating the units and "excercising" the motor that way, so last time I went into the EBCM, found where Pin 8 attached to the board, and carefully soldered a wire onto the pin.
Ran the wire out thru a small drilled hole in the case, and terminated it with a sealed plug. Now, I can just hook up 12V to the wire (thru a 15 amp fuse) in a few seconds, and play with the motor.

I found that the motor will usually draw about 10 amps at first, and sound pretty draggy. Usually after a few 2-3 second bursts, it begins to speed up, and current draw drops to 4-5 amps. Then I let it run for up to 15 seconds. But, the current seems to never really stabilize at a low level; it will run fine, then suddenly slow down and begin to draw more current again. I can only assume this is due to trash/rust or something in the armature. I don't see a way the actual brake fluid circuit in the BPMV could be causing this, it's just a loop of open valves.

Just trying any way I can to save the EBCM, since they are still obviously unrepairable. We tried to get our hands on a used BPMV so we could take it apart and see if the motor could be cleaned/repaired; but that plan fell through.

DG

10.5Vette

Do You have any pics of this? ^^^^

Redeasysport

I posted this above and no one has called and checked it out $99 Our Corvette is a 5.3 Bosch unit

http://www.cheapabs.com/vrother.html

Bosch ABS modules are also found on many other vehicles besides those listed on our website. If your car has a module that looks like any of the ones below, please contact us to see if it can be repaired. We service all integral Bosch ABS control modules (modules that are directly attached to the ABS pump).

Other vehicles that use Bosch 5.3, 5.4, or 5.7 control modules:

Daewoo Leganza (module number 0 273 004 249)
Mitsubishi Diamante and Eclipse
Toyota Camry
Chevrolet Camaro and Corvette
Pontiac Firebird
Ford Contour
Mazda 626 and MPV
Mercury Cougar, Mystique, and Villager
Nissan Altima, Frontier, Quest, and Sentra
Vauxhall / Opel Omega
Alfa Romeo 156 (P/N 71716867)
Renault
Peugeot
Citroen


I created Cheap-ABS to offer a solution I found to the annoying ABS problem that plagues B5 model Audi and Volkswagen cars. As an avid Audi enthusiast and electrical engineer, when I experienced the 'classic' ABS failure in my Audi, I decided to remove the ABS electronics and troubleshoot it to find the point of failure. I was able to identify where the module was failing and develop a method of repairing it. Due to the extremely intricate nature of the ABS electronics, it's a little more complicated that a simple solder job, but with the right tools and materials, I was able to find a way to reliably fix the problem and upgrade the module. Over the past few years, I have continued to improve and hone my repair methods, and I am focused on continuing to deliver the highest quality possible.

The problem with these modules is due to an engineering defect. Bond wires are ultrasonically joined to the substrate inside the module. In a normal application, this would not be an issue. But due to the module's placement in the engine compartment, one of the most hostile environments for electronics (full of heat, vibrations, and electrical noise), these ultrasonic connections break and fail. They cannot be simply soldered back together. My fix completely replaces these ultrasonic bond connections so that the module will not fail again in this manner.

Many people experience a 'worsening' of symptoms. At first, they notice the ABS light come on, then go back off. Eventually it gets worse and stays on all the time. What's happening it that the connection has broken but is still making physical contact (the wires have split, but the split ends are still touching sometimes). Eventually the wire will be pushed aside and won't contact at all. If you're experiencing intermittent symptoms, then by waiting until later to fix it, you run the risk of not having ABS available when you need it.

I've repaired many of the modules for people in my community, and because I'm frustrated that the car manufacturers haven't offered a recall to fix this, I have decided to fix anyone's module who is having the same problem. Paying $1500 for the dealer to fix this is just a rip-off. So are the $600 rebuild kits. And so are the rebuilders charging up to 4 times what I do. While I originally started this as a service to the VW Passat and Audi A4/S4/A6/A8 community, I realize that this module is found in many other cars, including Saabs, and will be glad to repair ABS modules for anyone with a Bosch ABS system.

I am not a large shop like other firms. I keep this a small, 2-person operation and mainly do this as a service to the automotive enthusiast community. The advantage of using Cheap-ABS is that you will be able to work with the person servicing your module. There are no hired technicians, no 800 numbers, no warranty RMA forms, etc. If you have a problem or a question, just contact me directly and I will help you to the best of my abilities.

Redeasysport

No one tried here either?

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/bosch53.php

Bosch 5.3
$160


Module Information
Our database indicates your vehicle uses a Bosch 5.3 ABS controller. If your module looks different from the one pictured above, click "Change Your Module" to see all the modules we rebuild.

The Bosch 5.3 is the latest design of ABS controller to enter the market. Introduced in 1997 by Nippondenso and later acquired by Bosch, these controllers have become very popular in ABS systems from sports cars to light trucks.

The 5.3 uses advanced ceramic pc-board technology for a smaller, more efficient design; while its dual processor architecture provides faster processing speed and error control. These advances result in increased reliability and reduced pedal vibration.

The 5.3 EBCU is bolted directly to the ABS modulator located in the engine compartment.

Common Problems
• Loss of communication with module.
• Loss of one or more wheel sensor inputs.
• Intermittent functionality.
• Water penetration.

What a Rebuild Includes
ModuleMaster uses a 5-step rebuild process which begins with a thorough cleaning by bead blasting. Next, our trained technicians make component-level repairs using high-grade silver solder. We then perform a preventative maintenance procedure which involves replacing all components known to fail with the highest quality upgrades available. Modules are then thermally treated to ensure longevity. While we do not have the means to test every module before shipping, we do our best to ensure trouble-free installation. If you have any problems during installation, please give us a call. We're here to help.

Unfortunately, there are some Bosch 5.3 modules that we are unable to test before shipping back to you. However, in the rare event you should have a problem with your rebuilt module, please give us a call. If it is determined that the module is defective, we will reimburse you for return shipping and repair or replace your module free of charge.

Warranty
All ModuleMaster rebuilds come with a 5-year guarantee against module related failures.

Redeasysport

http://www.autoecms.com/parts/Detail...39511&ord=core

10.5Vette

Redeasysport are you sure it's a Bosch 5.3? The reason I ask is that I have my spare sitting in front of me here it's the "V" module with active handling and it doesn't look at all like the pics on either of the websites you posted links to. Unless ours is just different externally? Not trying to start an argument, just want to get to the bottom of this as bad as everyone else.