nvusgt

Yes, yes you're absolutely correct. My mistake and I apologize, I did mean relay, NOT a resistor. If you ordered a relay then that's what you need.

7.56Z06

Where does it cost only $50 ?!?

I've never done any soldering so I'll gladly pay $50 to have this fixed.

madmatt9471

This is awesome for you later model guys!

Wish it were that easy with the 1997 - 2000

Thanks,Matt

SilverZ06NC

Done this last night! All I needed to do was solder the tabs back and it was good.

Thanks

toddk

Just completed this a few minutes ago on my '02. I just re-flowed the solder (with some new) on the existing relay. After clearing all the historical codes, no new ones are returning.

I didn't have a clear understanding of that hole in the cover until I got mine apart. It is a 1/8" passage through the shell to the front plate - you cannot hit a circuit board even if you wanted to. I used a Craftsman 1/8" punch, set the closest beveled mounting ear on a bench vise, and kept hammering until the sound changed indicating that the bead had broken. Then screwdrivers all around to finish separating the silicone.

An alternative to the punch would be a self-tapping screw that has a minor diameter of around 1/8" to get a good bite. Sorry I don't have an exact dimension, but hopefully this helps.

I second the comments by blackdak318 to get a hot iron. I had a little pointy 15W that worked on the smaller terminals, but didn't have enough oomph to melt the large center lug. The old 120W gun made short work of it.

I also pass my thanks on to all the contributors here. This forum is invaluable.

Todd




Picture of my 1/8 punch in the hole.

Echo

I pulled mine out of my 03 ZO6 and sent it to someone I found on Ebay. They fixed it for $50 and I didn't have to pull it apart. It's been working perfectly for the last two years.

bdog

Subscribed

bdog

Can i get a little clarification on what exactly goes wrong with the solder joints??? Thanks!

toddk

Here's a pic I took before my repair, and have zoomed in on two of the terminals in question. You can see it in the OP's 3rd pic too, on the relay center terminal. It appears as if a rift/ridge barrier has formed between the post & the circuit board it should be connected to. Re-melting the solder and adding some new took care of my C1242. As Lucky said above, "a classic case of insufficient solder/cold solder joints". Not sure exactly which it is (because all of my solder joints have never looked like this ), but clearly the solder is not doing it's job of connecting part A to part B. My worst looking terminals were on the load-side of the relay. Perhaps high current, vibration, and repetition along with lack of solder are a formula for this type of failure. Clearly the joints did work for 7+ years before failing, and mine was intermittent for several months before going consistent.

Todd

lucky131969

Yep. I wonder which alloy is used. For this application, it really needs to be something with at least 2% silver. I wonder if they only used 63/37 ?

MX621

I too repaired my c1214 code in my ebcm following the instuctions on this post.. Pretty simple task I thought. Nothing like doing it yourself.

Freedom CorpsVet

I just had the dealer quote me over $1200 to fix this. Looks like there is a project for me to do. Update at a later date.

bdog

Dido. Totally awesome fix.

Bill Curlee

TTT

nvusgt

Thanks to all who've attempted this, if it weren't for you guys I wouldn't be as sure of this fix as I am now. Of course there isn't any issue with mine, but it certainly helps to see so many follow this write and clear codes permanently.

bobkart

Just saved a pantlode of money. fix was very easy,I am a happyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy camper. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jward2496

will this work on 1998 models?

Bill Curlee

Short answer,,,, no

Bill Curlee

Long answer,, Its a completely different EBTCM. Do you have a front or rear mounted EBTCM??

Rear Mount =



BC

jward2496

yes the located in the rear.