C6 Z06 Exhaust on a C5?
#43
Just did the install
I just installed a C6ZO6 system on my 2000 vert. The system is a tight
fit, but it worked out fine...the H pipe was already adapted to my rear
pipe. You must bend the positive lead to the starter to prevent it from
shorting on the O2 sensor. The system has woken up my car..esp in the
midrange to upper rpm...the car seems to be breathing better. We will
be retuning the the car with FP tuners....will let you know how that
works out....so far the best $350 I have spent on this car.
fit, but it worked out fine...the H pipe was already adapted to my rear
pipe. You must bend the positive lead to the starter to prevent it from
shorting on the O2 sensor. The system has woken up my car..esp in the
midrange to upper rpm...the car seems to be breathing better. We will
be retuning the the car with FP tuners....will let you know how that
works out....so far the best $350 I have spent on this car.
#44
Update
Well we were having some electrical problems after the system install.
.Suspecting a short at the O2 sensor with the starter...I bent the starter contact further away from the o2 sensor. I finally managed to
tear the purple starter lead from the starter and the car was officially
dead. Fearing the worst...I have posted on this problem. but received
no real advice. The good thing is there were no related codes.
Yesterday I dropped the right side exhaust manifold and downpipe and
began the repair of the broken lead. I also insulated the hot lead with
some of that new hi tech wrap. While doing all this, I found the negative battery lead had not been tightened securely (had a recent
new battery installed by Advanced Auto). I think that was the problem
all along. Boy it was b---h putting new connector on the purple lead
with the limited space I had....but I finally got it all together.
Car started like a dream and now is back to being an amazing vehicle...
pulls like a train and the high end feels like it is cammed...probably due
to the better breathing of the C6Z system. Not bad for a car with a
101,000 miles. If you get a chance to buy one of these at a reasonable
price...jump on it...I think it is very close to the effect of a $2000 header system
.Suspecting a short at the O2 sensor with the starter...I bent the starter contact further away from the o2 sensor. I finally managed to
tear the purple starter lead from the starter and the car was officially
dead. Fearing the worst...I have posted on this problem. but received
no real advice. The good thing is there were no related codes.
Yesterday I dropped the right side exhaust manifold and downpipe and
began the repair of the broken lead. I also insulated the hot lead with
some of that new hi tech wrap. While doing all this, I found the negative battery lead had not been tightened securely (had a recent
new battery installed by Advanced Auto). I think that was the problem
all along. Boy it was b---h putting new connector on the purple lead
with the limited space I had....but I finally got it all together.
Car started like a dream and now is back to being an amazing vehicle...
pulls like a train and the high end feels like it is cammed...probably due
to the better breathing of the C6Z system. Not bad for a car with a
101,000 miles. If you get a chance to buy one of these at a reasonable
price...jump on it...I think it is very close to the effect of a $2000 header system
#47
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sorry guys, I have been away for a little while (military) and have not been able to drive my car or update this thread.
I am glad others have jumped in with success. I feel this is a great mod for those seeking an alternative to LT's at a great discount.
Now I can't wait to get home and drive my car so I can enjoy the new system as others are!!!
I am glad others have jumped in with success. I feel this is a great mod for those seeking an alternative to LT's at a great discount.
Now I can't wait to get home and drive my car so I can enjoy the new system as others are!!!
#48
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
#49
Team Owner
Sorry guys, I have been away for a little while (military) and have not been able to drive my car or update this thread.
I am glad others have jumped in with success. I feel this is a great mod for those seeking an alternative to LT's at a great discount.
Now I can't wait to get home and drive my car so I can enjoy the new system as others are!!!
I am glad others have jumped in with success. I feel this is a great mod for those seeking an alternative to LT's at a great discount.
Now I can't wait to get home and drive my car so I can enjoy the new system as others are!!!
(1) Did you finally get it smogged, pass okay, including visual?
(2) What did you do about the AIR Pump tubes on the manifolds, since the C6 Z06 mani's do not have them, for the VISUAL part of the SMOG?
(3) Any final pics?
I have a set and was thinking of dummying two tubes just for the SMOG Inspection on the visual!
Thanks,Matt
661-406-7516
#50
Drifting
Echelonphoto and I installed these on his car in November. I tuned it for him and it felt like a solid 25 rwhp. It felt just like adding headers.
I spoke to a very reputable shop owner on here, and he told me that the c6z manifolds make identical power as catted long tubes on a C5. The main advantage of long tubes vs these manifolds is that you can go catless and pick up some ponies.
To put into perspective, I was so impressed by the manifold gains that I sold my Kooks 1 7/8" system and picked up a set of c6z manifolds.
Just look at what C6Z's are picking up from header swaps. No more than 5-10 HP with a much larger engine. Most of the gains they get are from the tune that just so happens to coincide with the header install.
As for emissions, there is no air tube provision so you would fail a visual if they were looking for that in CA
I spoke to a very reputable shop owner on here, and he told me that the c6z manifolds make identical power as catted long tubes on a C5. The main advantage of long tubes vs these manifolds is that you can go catless and pick up some ponies.
To put into perspective, I was so impressed by the manifold gains that I sold my Kooks 1 7/8" system and picked up a set of c6z manifolds.
Just look at what C6Z's are picking up from header swaps. No more than 5-10 HP with a much larger engine. Most of the gains they get are from the tune that just so happens to coincide with the header install.
As for emissions, there is no air tube provision so you would fail a visual if they were looking for that in CA
#51
Safety Car
1). It's a tight fit
2). It's more difficult to take off/on then stock C5 mani's but no more difficult then Long Tube setups.
3). The PS manifold positions the 02 sensor very close to the hot lead of the starter. Require's repositioning (bending) of the hot lead terminal, which is easily doable. Some go with a shorter 02 sensor and I've read one actually going with a smaller starter. Bending the lead is all I needed to do.
4). Also very close where the exhaust passes the bellhousing.
Is it still worth doing based on the above? Yes, because for the money it performs.
On my C5 w/ an LS3, mild cam, ported TB and stock LS7 exhaust, I actually got more power on the dyno than what was expected but w/ LT's. This means we expected too low or these manifolds are really, really good.
Will be installing LG LT's shortly to just see how much was really lost by going with the LS7 stock manifolds. I'm expecting 15-20 over the stock manifolds and if not, they come right back off
Stay tuned...
2). It's more difficult to take off/on then stock C5 mani's but no more difficult then Long Tube setups.
3). The PS manifold positions the 02 sensor very close to the hot lead of the starter. Require's repositioning (bending) of the hot lead terminal, which is easily doable. Some go with a shorter 02 sensor and I've read one actually going with a smaller starter. Bending the lead is all I needed to do.
4). Also very close where the exhaust passes the bellhousing.
Is it still worth doing based on the above? Yes, because for the money it performs.
On my C5 w/ an LS3, mild cam, ported TB and stock LS7 exhaust, I actually got more power on the dyno than what was expected but w/ LT's. This means we expected too low or these manifolds are really, really good.
Will be installing LG LT's shortly to just see how much was really lost by going with the LS7 stock manifolds. I'm expecting 15-20 over the stock manifolds and if not, they come right back off
Stay tuned...
Last edited by AVB; 01-19-2013 at 12:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
TwinturboN8 (06-13-2019)
#52
Team Owner
Echelonphoto and I installed these on his car in November. I tuned it for him and it felt like a solid 25 rwhp. It felt just like adding headers.
I spoke to a very reputable shop owner on here, and he told me that the c6z manifolds make identical power as catted long tubes on a C5. The main advantage of long tubes vs these manifolds is that you can go catless and pick up some ponies.
To put into perspective, I was so impressed by the manifold gains that I sold my Kooks 1 7/8" system and picked up a set of c6z manifolds.
Just look at what C6Z's are picking up from header swaps. No more than 5-10 HP with a much larger engine. Most of the gains they get are from the tune that just so happens to coincide with the header install.
As for emissions, there is no air tube provision so you would fail a visual if they were looking for that in CA
I spoke to a very reputable shop owner on here, and he told me that the c6z manifolds make identical power as catted long tubes on a C5. The main advantage of long tubes vs these manifolds is that you can go catless and pick up some ponies.
To put into perspective, I was so impressed by the manifold gains that I sold my Kooks 1 7/8" system and picked up a set of c6z manifolds.
Just look at what C6Z's are picking up from header swaps. No more than 5-10 HP with a much larger engine. Most of the gains they get are from the tune that just so happens to coincide with the header install.
As for emissions, there is no air tube provision so you would fail a visual if they were looking for that in CA
As far as CA Emissions and the Air Tubes - I have solved that problem by having two air tubes made by KOOKS for me and they will be welded and dummied to the manifolds (My Air Tube Pump system is tuned OFF)
Which will allow it to pass the visual!
Now if someone wanted to they could actually drill a hole in the manifold and have the tubes made and then welded to the manifold and retain the stock operation of the Air Injection system.
I will also take pictures all along the way and do a write-up too!
Thanks,Matt
#54
Drifting
The only downside is it is a VERY TIGHT fit. My header was actually contacting one of the bellhousing inspection cover bolts. It was an easy fix though...just had to replace the one bolt with a button head bolt. It also contacts the a/c line, but that is also an easy fix as the line bends a bit. Or you could just grind some material off the manifold.
#55
Team Owner
yes my car is noticeably quieter now. But I was coming from a radical catless 1 7/8" setup. I like this setup 10000x better than my header setup. No bad smell. No ticking off drivethru walls. And similar power.
The only downside is it is a VERY TIGHT fit. My header was actually contacting one of the bellhousing inspection cover bolts. It was an easy fix though...just had to replace the one bolt with a button head bolt. It also contacts the a/c line, but that is also an easy fix as the line bends a bit. Or you could just grind some material off the manifold.
The only downside is it is a VERY TIGHT fit. My header was actually contacting one of the bellhousing inspection cover bolts. It was an easy fix though...just had to replace the one bolt with a button head bolt. It also contacts the a/c line, but that is also an easy fix as the line bends a bit. Or you could just grind some material off the manifold.
Is it that yours is a MN6 and that is why it is hitting the Inspection Cover? - mine is a A4 and a little different in clearance, doesn't have a inspection cover!
Was the AC line hitting the C6 Z06 manifold, was it the large outlet part that was hitting?
Any other heads up for the job?
Thanks,Matt
#56
Drifting
Are you saying the C6 Z06 exhaust is hitting the bolt and the AC line or was it your old 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers?
Is it that yours is a MN6 and that is why it is hitting the Inspection Cover? - mine is a A4 and a little different in clearance, doesn't have a inspection cover!
Was the AC line hitting the C6 Z06 manifold, was it the large outlet part that was hitting?
Any other heads up for the job?
Thanks,Matt
Is it that yours is a MN6 and that is why it is hitting the Inspection Cover? - mine is a A4 and a little different in clearance, doesn't have a inspection cover!
Was the AC line hitting the C6 Z06 manifold, was it the large outlet part that was hitting?
Any other heads up for the job?
Thanks,Matt
The A/C line hits right where it connects to the A/C. You can remedy this by pushing it up so it curves over the manifold or you can just grind some off the manifold. I just pushed it up and put extra insulation tape over it.
Yes one more heads up...
The driver's side 02 sensor comes very close to the starter. To remedy this, we simply cut off the tab on the large wire connector that goes to the starter (I think the black one) and then rotated it so the actual wire wouldn't touch the 02. Haven't had any issues.
Other than that, the only thing you need to do is cut off a piece of the stock c5 exhaust where the mounting tabs go (a little more than a foot), and then mate it to the C6Z xpipe with a 2.5" to 3" adapter like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41973
I have to take off the manifolds this weekend to change gaskets (I mangled my old ones on the install so they are leaking) so maybe I can take some pics.
Run the round port stock ls1 gaskets if you decide to get these as the D port ls7 gaskets will overlap into the exhaust flow which you don't want.
So yeah to sum up, it does bolt up but you may have to do some minor modifications to get it to clear. I wouldn't consider it a direct bolt in. I'd definitely budget at least a weekend if installing just in case you run into issues.
With that being said, I still had to clearance some other things when I did my Kooks 1 7/8". They rubbed hard against the body...I had to take the grinder to some areas so they weren't exactly a direct bolton either.
Last edited by mchicia1; 01-31-2013 at 09:04 AM.
#58
Team Owner
Sorry, yes my C6Z manifold was hitting the A/C inspection cover bolt (the left most, passenger side bolt). But on my Dad's car, also an MN6, his had plenty of clearance. Go figure.
The A/C line hits right where it connects to the A/C. You can remedy this by pushing it up so it curves over the manifold or you can just grind some off the manifold. I just pushed it up and put extra insulation tape over it.
Yes one more heads up...
The driver's side 02 sensor comes very close to the starter. To remedy this, we simply cut off the tab on the large wire connector that goes to the starter (I think the black one) and then rotated it so the actual wire wouldn't touch the 02. Haven't had any issues.
Other than that, the only thing you need to do is cut off a piece of the stock c5 exhaust where the mounting tabs go (a little more than a foot), and then mate it to the C6Z xpipe with a 2.5" to 3" adapter like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41973
I have to take off the manifolds this weekend to change gaskets (I mangled my old ones on the install so they are leaking) so maybe I can take some pics.
Run the round port stock ls1 gaskets if you decide to get these as the D port ls7 gaskets will overlap into the exhaust flow which you don't want.
So yeah to sum up, it does bolt up but you may have to do some minor modifications to get it to clear. I wouldn't consider it a direct bolt in. I'd definitely budget at least a weekend if installing just in case you run into issues.
With that being said, I still had to clearance some other things when I did my Kooks 1 7/8". They rubbed hard against the body...I had to take the grinder to some areas so they weren't exactly a direct bolton either.
The A/C line hits right where it connects to the A/C. You can remedy this by pushing it up so it curves over the manifold or you can just grind some off the manifold. I just pushed it up and put extra insulation tape over it.
Yes one more heads up...
The driver's side 02 sensor comes very close to the starter. To remedy this, we simply cut off the tab on the large wire connector that goes to the starter (I think the black one) and then rotated it so the actual wire wouldn't touch the 02. Haven't had any issues.
Other than that, the only thing you need to do is cut off a piece of the stock c5 exhaust where the mounting tabs go (a little more than a foot), and then mate it to the C6Z xpipe with a 2.5" to 3" adapter like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41973
I have to take off the manifolds this weekend to change gaskets (I mangled my old ones on the install so they are leaking) so maybe I can take some pics.
Run the round port stock ls1 gaskets if you decide to get these as the D port ls7 gaskets will overlap into the exhaust flow which you don't want.
So yeah to sum up, it does bolt up but you may have to do some minor modifications to get it to clear. I wouldn't consider it a direct bolt in. I'd definitely budget at least a weekend if installing just in case you run into issues.
With that being said, I still had to clearance some other things when I did my Kooks 1 7/8". They rubbed hard against the body...I had to take the grinder to some areas so they weren't exactly a direct bolton either.
(2) Very interested in pictures of the AC line - so I can "MAN" bend it perhaps before I try to put the Manifold on, and perhaps grind a slight bit off the flange of the Manifold too!
(3) I will do the same thing to the starter wire as you did once the headers are off and make that clearance issue void as well.
(4) Manifold to Head Gaskets - I have D Port shaped heads on my Vette now (TFS 215's) - I am going to try the D Port gaskets first and put them up against the head and bolt holes - if they don't clear or line up just right then I will use my stock LS1 gaskets
(5) Question:
Did you have to widen the C6 X-pipe in the rear to line up the the C5's muffler pipe trajectory - C6 is slightly narrower than the C5's, being slightly wider! (See pictures below)
(6) Question: I think it was answered before but...
Do the C6 X-Pipe back or Rear exhaust hangers line up in the same place as the stock C5? (from pics I believe so, but just want a for sure)
Here is my manifolds with fully functional AIR TUBE installed for California purposes and a pic of the C5's stock H-pipe vs. the stock ZR1 X-Pipe:
I will be installing the Full system and then going over to the Muffler shop and installing the 3" B&B Fusion on the Vette there and making the transition of the X-Pipe to the B&B Fusion on the lift -
Thanks,Matt
661-406-7516
#59
Team Owner
This would be "SUPER" appreciated for sure!
I too am taking pictures all along the way and will do a write-up on the install (like I have on things in the past)
But please if you get the chance to do your write-up - do it!
Thanks,Matt
I too am taking pictures all along the way and will do a write-up on the install (like I have on things in the past)
But please if you get the chance to do your write-up - do it!
Thanks,Matt
#60
Team Owner
Another Question:
Should I trim that heat shield off the Passenger side exhaust manifold? Did you have to?
Thanks,Matt
Should I trim that heat shield off the Passenger side exhaust manifold? Did you have to?
Thanks,Matt