m6 c5

I am a little lost on how to hook up the Lc1, I am looking to hook it up as a semi permanent setup so I assume I will need to to have it on a switched 12v source fed by the ignition. I have read the instructions several times and been thru the help file on log works but for some reason I am either missing something or just dont get it. I guess Im more of a hands on type of guy because I can take just about anything apart without a problem.
It would be nice if someone was relatively close by that knows what they are doing so I could learn first hand as I am jumping head first into all this tuning stuff but any help will be appreciated.

87gtNOS

I just got mine to work about a week ago.

I actually cut the o2 wires and put 20" worth of extensions on them and ran them up through the plate under the car, and up around the shifter.

I powered the LC1 off the power feed to the accessory plug in the center armrest. I ran the positive to a toggle switch and removed the ashtray and the toggle is just laying there. One of those wires in that harness is a ground too.

Then you run the two appropriate wires to the little green plug and plug that into the side of your HpTuner unit.

You need to buy a serial to USB adapter at Radio Shack.

Power up the LC1 and then open the LM Programmer program. I use lambda. And I am not at the car right now, so I can't tell you the full instructions...but, you need to slow the reaction time down to 1/6th speed. A special note on using the LM Programmer, always click the SAVE settings on the main page (I don't remember exactly what the tab is called, but you'll see!).

On the main page select the type of fuel you are using.

You then need to click ANALOG 1 and set the voltages and choose lambda or AFR.
If you are going to use AFR
0v = 10 afr
5v = 18 afr
For lambda I used I think:
0v = .65
5v = 1.4 But you should research that...because I can't recall that right now!

Then click factory defaults and slow the speed to 1/6th.
Then click back to the main page and click the save or setup tab....

YOU MUST CLOSE THAT PROGRAM AND TURN THE LC1 OFF before the LOGWORKS will work!!!!

Turn the LC1 back on and click the LOGWORKS on. Click connect on the top left....then you need to set the gauge to read AFR or Lambda, etc...

BEFORE YOU RUN the LC1, you need to free air calibrate. I did this before installing the o2....I had the LC1 all wired up, and plugged the o2 in and let it hang in the car...careful not to burn the inside of your car!! I let mine sit there for 30 minutes...

Hope this helps.
Get it working with LOGWORKS.

Then you need to set it up in HP tuners...thats another story!!

Oh ****....and read all this stuff!!
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5059

m6 c5

So if Im understanding this correctly you have to manually switch on the heater for the Lc1 each time you drive your car?

87gtNOS

I do.

I guess I will eventually wire to a 'switched' power lead or even a relay that is on the switched power that the radio uses....

m6 c5

Ok I think Ive got the wiring down I just need to figure out where to make all my connections for the ground and power. Where exactly did you hook up your two ground wires?

87gtNOS

That was last summer that I did that part of it....but both go into the harness on the car...I must have cut back the black covering of the harness in front of the shifter and connected both grounds to it. They're taped in there! (last summer!)

m6 c5

Ok thanks, Im sure this will make much more sense when I actually start to make all the connections.
Now I just have to sort out all of these dtc codes that popped up

IABLKZ06

I sure hope he turned it on every time he drove his car.

From Page 7 of the LC-1 manual.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf


WHEN INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST, THE OXYGEN SENSOR
MUST BE CONNECTED AND OPERATING WITH THE LC-1
WHENEVER THE CAR IS RUNNING. AN UN-POWERED OXYGEN
SENSOR WILL BE DAMAGED WHEN EXPOSED TO EXHAUST GAS.

m6 c5

Yes that is why I want to have it wired to something in the car because it is my daily driver.

RobertEarl

I have mine permantly installed in the original bung. I pull the power from the old O2 sensor and feed analog 1 back as a narrow band. I ran the analog 2 feed to the EGR on the PCM and have HP tunners read that for AFR. The LC-1 is located just in front of the battery where it is easy to get to if I need to.

Reb

m6 c5

Doesnt that require you to cut a bunch of the cable or am i just lost on how you are hooking it up because I only have a small rectangular box that is about 18" away from the actual sensor.

87gtNOS

This is why I cut my o2 wire and made it longer by about 24".

m6 c5

Yea I havent really decided what all Im going to do yet still need to put it up on the lift and tear into it just been really busy recently. I have everything to do a very nice splicing but if I dont have to do that I really dont want to. And if I were to splice in enough wire to make it so that the box was up by the battery it would be a lot of wire added in.
It woudl be kinda nice to have it wired to the original O2 harness as that would be pretty idiot proof with turning it on but then you dont use the led light and switch that they provide which sounds like it would be helpful to use the led to see the status at least. If only I knew some people that lived close by that did this sort of stuff.

RobertEarl

A Bosch 17014 sensor ( This should be the one that came with your LC-1 ) has a cable length of 29". I found the same one with a cable length of 48". I do not remember the part number but I will see if I can find it. I got O2 cable connector from EFIconnections and wired it to just plug into the OEM recepticle. I did run a ground to the frame lug just below the battery. EFIconnections also has the pin to crimp on the wire you plug into the pcm.

It is hard to splice into the O2 wires because the wires are mode of something that does NOT solder well at all. You could get some small crimp connectors and then heat shrink them.


Reb

m6 c5

I was planing on using the sensor that came with the LC1 for now at least and if I do splice the wires it will be with crimped connectors and heat shrink to keep water out.
Im kinda liking the idea of hooking it up to the factory harness, Im just not sure if I should run it as a narrow band too or just hook it up to Hp tuners.

IABLKZ06

I was going to do that on my last car and my tuner told me not to do it. He believes you should leave the factory O2 sensors intact and weld in the bung and add the LC-1.

So if I follow his recommendation how do you weld in a bung on a Z06's titanium exhaust?

Did anyone add the gauge or are you just using it to feed to the tuner?

RobertEarl

Found it. A Bosch 17090 is 47". Ebay has them for $75.


Reb

RobertEarl

Not sure why he told you that. If you wire up the OEM plug, you can just unscrew the wideband and plug back in your OEM sensor when you are not tuning it. I really don't have a need to stare at an AFR guage all the time. It will read 14.7 98% of time unless you have a very heavy foot!

m6 c5

And in my case I dont even run my rear O2 sensors so there is no point in welding in a new bung. And the Z06 only has titanium pipes from where the mufflers bolt to the h-pipe and back the rest is steel.

m6 c5

So this will plug into the Innovative hardware no problem right?