Vette_Fan

Hey guys,

So, I'd like to add some power. I've got 56k miles on my 99 -A4. LTs with hi flow cats are sure on my list, to go with my Z06 Ti cat back.

My concern is doing a Cam job. I'm not sure if I'd wanna go into the engine... I know tons of people get cam jobs done all the time; and it's safe! But My question is would I sacrifice "some" reliability, in the long run?

2nd question - can I get around 390-400 rwhp, without going into engine or SC/turbo?

Thanks!

JDS99

I bought my '99 FRC MN6 when it had 48k miles on it; completely original except for B&B route 66 mufflers.

At around 55k I installed LG street long tubes with cats.

At about 58k - 60k miles (don't recall exactly) I installed a melling oil pump, double roller timing chain with torrington bearing, patriot xtreme dual springs, comp cams magnum pushrods, and a very aggressive lobed comp cams LSr 231/239 .617"/.624" 113LSA cam.

At around 70k miles I added a FAST 90/90 setup.

Now at 98k miles I just added 243 heads, ls7 lifters, arp head bolts, 85mm maf, 42lb/hr injectors. I plan on running the short block until it gives up.

Did I mention that until 98k miles it was daily driven, and my only vehicle??... Still has never left me stranded, and remains with the original clutch even (though I can't imagine for much longer as it's purpose now is to be the play car; I sense clutch slippage in the near future)



Personally, I wouldn't worry about the mods unless you are very hard on a vehicle. I didn't floor it every time I was in the car, but would have fun here and there. These LS engines are pretty tough.

chaase

You cannot get those power levels with changing engine internals. 56k miles is nothing for these motors. They are just getting warmed up. We have at least 1 member that has/had over 300k on the original motor and it was still going strong.

Mod it with a reputable shop and you will be fine. If you go heads/cam, they will have the engine apart and they can easily tell if there are any problem areas. Replace the timing chain and oil pump while it is apart for added insurance. It is essentially parts cost since you to tear it down that far for a new cam anyway.

JDS99

For confidence.... here is a snapshot I took with my phone right after pulling the driver's side cylinder head at 98k miles with mods done as listed above. Note the nice clean honing marks still present on the cylinder wall with ZERO scoring and minimal carbon buildup.

Vette_Fan

So can you stuggest a basic list of items I'll need, and how much $$$ lighter my wallet's gonna get

JDS99

Haha, just remember it is about NEEDS and not wants. Like at some point I will need a turbo


I did 387.3rwhp with the mentioned cam above and mods listed. Pricing will be significantly different from a DIY job or paying a shop to do the work. It depends on what you are comfortable with. I have been building/working on engines since I was a kid, and natural gas engine mechanical development in an earlier career; so I always do my own work. Don't forget you will absolutely need a tune regardless!! Tack on anywhere from $400-$600 or so depending on the shop, or at least $500 for an HP Tuners module. Parts costs are too dependent on what you get and where, so you would just have to run through and price your cam/springs/pushrods/timing chain/oil pump/gaskets/crank bolt/fluids/etc. for a cam swap.

cdkcorvette7

Cam, LS2 Timing Chain, Upgraded Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Oil Pump, Hardware, Gaskets, etc. Not a bad idea to replace your harmonic balancer with an underdrive pulley while you're in there...

England Green will sell you all of that and more for $1595 shipped to your door. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this myself: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-new-cams.html

vettenuts

Judicious part selection and realistic goals are what helps with reliability. For example, lower lift on the cam will help with valve spring life. A lower ramp rate helps as well, but also lowers hp gain.

0EG@EnglandGreen

We always tell your customers
"Cheap, Fast or Reliable - pick 2"

Stephen

Vette_Fan

Sounds great! Now only if labor was discounted...I would do this today.... Still gotta have some $$ for LTs...

chevy406

My only contribution to this topic is that my stock LS1 shortblock with aftermarket heads, cam, intake, headers, etc now has 234,000 miles and still running just fine. Daily driver that knocks down 24 mpg in mixed hwy/city commute to work during the week and can run 7.5 second 1/8 mile ET and occasionaly make laps on a road course. I like having my cake and eating it.

had2have-it

Your goals can be reached with; a good builder and the right package of parts that work together properly. Couldn't tell you how much lighter your wallet will get...I never got that far. From what I have learned on the forum a LS6 intake will help and any thing over .580 lift won't do much breathing through stock LS1 heads

kp1

You've got a '99. First up should be a LS6 intake. That's around $300 and it's a DIY.

Depending on what and where you want additional performance, a different rear gear is a heck of a big deal from a standing stop.

There are several people designing cams with real good power increases that idle just like an oem cam and don't have the associated valve train noise.

If it were me, having done most of the naturally aspirated mods that can be done to one of these things, I'd go Super Charger. An SC kit with everything you need is a bargain compared to aftermarket heads, cam, rockers, and on and on. Even with an SC kit, you'd need some bettter valve springs to handle the additional rpms.

The sky is the limit. How high do you want to fly?

hattitude

Most people who develop liability problems have tried to do it on the cheap.

Set a goal and then do it right..........

Good luck.....

PS- I'd suggest a supercharger...

ztheusa

Power and reliability are inversely related.

0EG@EnglandGreen

Incorrect - just add $$$$$ to make it reliable. Most people chose the cheap route unfortunately.

lucky131969

ztheusa

Nope.........If that were the case they would have lightweight small displacement engines with high power, and warrant them for 100,000 miles. Which they don't.

Modifying your engine is just a prescription for being stuck on the side of the road. Or being stuck trying to sell the abomination. All one has to do is look at all the poor owners trying to sell their worthless modified cars in the "for sale" section right on this forum.

lucky131969

Just because you lack the funds (or competence) to modify your car, means nothing Whether one takes a hit in resale(and how much), depends on what parts are used, the way the vehicle was used, the quality of the work done......and most importantly.....the market/economy.

As fare as the mods listed in your sig "never mod a corvette", I can see how you would not want to mod your 67, especially if it is a #'s matching car. Then again, provided that you don't cut up the car, or render it unreversible (and keep all original parts).......who cares?

81c3

First, read post #13 as one example. He has 234,000 miles on a modded engine. Theres something to be said about doing the job correctly. I have owned many automobiles, many of them hot rods and I have never been stuck on the side of the road as a result of adding power boosting goodies.

I think what EG is meaning is, alot of guys want to put in a lumpy camshaft, but then skimp on spending the money on things like a quality set of springs, pushrods and the not so glorious parts of the build, but very necessary parts for reliability.

Doing a power upgrade is more involved and usually more expensive than what most guys project in the begining of their builds. For my cam job, that meant for me anyway, not just a cam, but, springs, keepers, retainers, valve seals, hardened push rods, oil pump, water pump, pulley with a new bolt, all necessary gaskets and of course a dyno tune. On top of all that are the good quality tools needed for any engine work.

The old addage still stands today: SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANNA GO?