STRODDER

I have 70k on my 01. I already replaced both oil pan gaskets, and it stopped for about 6 months. Now it's leaking again. After thoroughly looking for the leak while tightening all the bolts. I pulled of the rubber inspection cover and turned the flex place to where I can see the rear main seal. Sure enough it's leaking. My question is can I pull the engine only, and not the whole drive train like the dealer says? Or is there some kind of additive I could add that might seal up the leak? I normally don't like to use a quick fix, but this is a big job. Any tips would be appreciated.

dougbfresh

Many have gotten the engine out the top but dropping it is easier if you have the space and the jacks.

Chris Stewart

I don't think taking the engine out makes that job any easier. How about a winter DIY project?

lucky131969

.....and you are absolutely certain, that the oil can not be coming from a leaky OPS, or anywhere else? It's a big job, so be sure. Use dye and a black light.

STRODDER

I checked the op switch, and it's dry up there. I can look right at the seal and see it's leaking at the bottom of the seal. It's really wet right there. I'm sure it's leaking.

STRODDER

I have a fully equipped shop with a lift.

Lothar34

You can pull the engine out the bottom or the top without removing the torque tube, but you'll need to unbolt it from, and remove, the subframe in order to do that.

You'll have to pull the engine forward to clear the input shaft from the torque tube. You can't slide the subframe forward because of the way the frame mounting bolts go through it. You have to drop it about 3" to clear those bolts, but you can't do that with the engine attached beacuse you can't pull the engine that far down with the input shaft stilll in place.

I think it's easier to go out the top if you don't want to remove the torque tube. You'll still need to drop the subframe, but you can leave it kinda in place (supported with a jack or something) so you'll have a place to tie down the brake calipers. Once the radiator and fans are out of the way it's easy.

Now remember that you have to pull out the steering rack to separate teh engine from the subframe and that's a PITA. Probably part of the reason teh mechanics want to disconnect the rear and drop the engine and subframe together.

STRODDER

That's what I was thinking. Pull it from the top. Looks like the ABS unit will be in the way also. How many hours should it take?

Lothar34

My ABS is in the back.

I don't remember how many hours. Maybe 4?

dgrant3830

If you have a manual tranny, maybe you should do the clutch at the same time? For manual trans, always replace the rear main seal when the clutch is being done. Personally it appears it would be easier to remove the exhaust, diff/trans and torque tube, rather than the engine. I've never personally done either way myself but I've paid to have the clutch replaced several times over the years on my very high mileage '99.

mchicia1

Not true, never replace the rear main seal unless it is leaking. You are more likely to screw up the installation and give yourself an unnecessary headache. It is not an easily replaceable part like the slave cylinder or pilot bearing..

OP, I have dropped the tranny twice now on the vette. It is not hard at all. There are guides on how to do it, I would say just by eyeballing it, it looks easier to drop the tranny/torque tube.

STRODDER

It's automatic. I looked at it quite a while to see what way would be easer to do. I'm 50/50 on which way to go.

mchicia1, what guide lines are you talking about?

mchicia1

Just google c5 clutch install. But in general it goes like this, at least for manual trannys.

--Removal of rear cradle--

1) Remove rear tires
2) Unbolt control arm
3) Unbolt shocks
4) Remove e-brake cable from shoe
5) unclip all the connector clips that go across the rear cradle
6) Support tranny/diff with a tranny jack
7) Unbolt the 4 rear cradle nuts
8) Lower rear cradle as one unit, slide away

From here, on a manual tranny, you have two choices. You can separate the tranny from the torque tube and remove the torque tube separately, or if you have a lift and a really good tranny jack, you can remove the tranny/diff/torque tube as one unit. I do mine on jack stands, so I separate the tranny from the torque tube for easier installation later.

After the rear cradle is out...it really is just supporting the tranny, removing the tunnel plate, unbolting the torque tube at the engine,disconnecting any other misc lines, and the whole thing just slides out. Now, if you have headers, they also have to be unbolted and the x-pipe completely removed.

Just follow the guide...it looks like a lot of work and it is to an extent, but none of it is complicated or really that intimidating. You can throw a yank stall converter in while you are there .

STRODDER

Thanks. That seems the way to go. What stall speed it the Yank Converter compared to stock? My engine is stock. What would the advantages be? Sorry for all the questions.

STRODDER

Forget the question about the Yank Converter. Too expensive for my taste. I don't really need it. I would rather spend that kind of money on an exhaust system.