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C1222 post jacking up the car real high on the driver side

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Old 12-13-2011, 11:56 PM
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Vince99FRC
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Default C1222 post jacking up the car real high on the driver side

I needed to do some heat shielding by my driver side turbo. I had to jack my car up pretty high due to my physical side to be able to get my hands where I needed them. I use to get C1233 intermittently, but once I was done I took the car for a spin and I immediately got C1222 just backing out of my driveway. I reset it and it came right back in seconds. Could it be the wheel hub bearings? I replaced the wheel sensor cable a month ago on both sides.
Old 12-14-2011, 07:36 AM
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runner140*
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Vince, the difinition of an OBD11 error code C1222 is: current = "C"
1222 = "wheel speed mismatch". Wheel speed/car speed don't match.

Last edited by runner140*; 12-14-2011 at 07:36 AM. Reason: add
Old 12-14-2011, 09:05 AM
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C1222 H - RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0

I am more curious to why? I use to get c1233 daily and then after jacking one side of the car up I am now getting C1222 instantly after rolling backwards or rolling forward. This has been going on for days now.

Originally Posted by runner140*
Vince, the difinition of an OBD11 error code C1222 is: current = "C"
1222 = "wheel speed mismatch". Wheel speed/car speed don't match.
Old 12-15-2011, 10:37 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by runner140*
Vince, the difinition of an OBD11 error code C1222 is: current = "C"
1222 = "wheel speed mismatch". Wheel speed/car speed don't match.
The C at the beginning of the DTC doesn't mean current. If there is a current or history code it would show up as C1222 C or C1222 H.

As for the OP it might be a good idea to jack the wheels up and with your hands in the 12 and 6 position on the wheel try to rock it up and down. If you get more than a small amount of movement you may need to replace the bearing. Also make sure the brake pads are pushed away from the rotors and check for any rough feeling in the hub when you turn the wheel by hand.

C1221 through C1224
All of the following conditions exists for 2.5 seconds:
• The suspect wheel speed equals zero.
• The other wheel speeds are greater than 8 km/h (5 mph).
• The other wheel speeds are within 11 km/h (7 mph) of each other.

Also use a DVM to check the output resistance and voltage of the wheel bearing. Disconnect the connector where the lead from the wheel bearing connects to the car. Resistance should be 850-1350 ohms and the Voltage level should be greater than 100mv when you spin the wheel.

If that check shows things are fine then the problem is in the harness going to the EBCM or in the EBCM.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 12-15-2011 at 10:47 PM.
Old 12-16-2011, 12:27 AM
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Bill has you covered. You either finished off a failing wheel hub or you somehow damaged the wiring for that wheel.

You won't bugger the wheel speed sensor by jacking the car like that unless the bearings are already going bad.

What's C1233 mean? It's easier to tell us when you already know instead of making us search.

Peter
Old 12-16-2011, 08:35 AM
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Looks like I have more to do this weekend. Thanks guys!!! I will work on this on Sunday evening..
Old 12-16-2011, 05:03 PM
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Had a free moment to jack passenger side up and try to move the wheel up and down, back and forth and side to side. She did not move. No noise while spinning the wheel.
Old 12-21-2011, 11:14 AM
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Swapped out wheel bearing and same issue. The shop where I went says he has seen new wheel bearings come bad and he would like to try one more set b4 we go any further.
Old 12-21-2011, 11:18 AM
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lucky131969
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
Swapped out wheel bearing and same issue. The shop where I went says he has seen new wheel bearings come bad and he would like to try one more set b4 we go any further.
Why did you change the bearing assembly? Was the output dead when tested with a meter?
Old 12-21-2011, 11:19 AM
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I was there for something else and we moved too quickly..

Originally Posted by lucky131969
Why did you change the bearing assembly? Was the output dead when tested with a meter?
Old 12-21-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
I was there for something else and we moved too quickly..
Was any of the advice given in post #4 followed? Any troubleshooting?
Old 12-21-2011, 12:14 PM
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[QUOTE=lucky131969;1579529285]Was any of the advice given in post #4 followed? Any troubleshooting?[/QUOTE]

Check post #7. I had the mechanic do the same. The only thing I did not do was check ohms and voltage.
Old 12-21-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
The only thing I did not do was check ohms and voltage.
....and those are the two most important tests ! People are trying to help you. If you ignore their advice, there is no sense in asking for help. Just sayin.
Old 12-21-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
[QUOTE=lucky131969;1579529285]Was any of the advice given in post #4 followed? Any troubleshooting?
Check post #7. I had the mechanic do the same. The only thing I did not do was check ohms and voltage.[/QUOTE]

And that would be the most important part.

Whoops, a little late!
Old 12-21-2011, 12:33 PM
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Guys give me a break. I have a 3.5 year old that has my attention when I am not working. I could not find my dvm last week. We will check tomorrow.


Originally Posted by lucky131969
....and those are the two most important tests ! People are trying to help you. If you ignore their advice, there is no sense in asking for help. Just sayin.
Old 12-21-2011, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
Guys give me a break. I have a 3.5 year old that has my attention when I am not working. I could not find my dvm last week. We will check tomorrow.
No one is going to knock you for being a good father You create confusion when you ask for help, are provided specific things to check, and do not follow through. Simple as that. So do the checks, and report back when you know more.
Old 12-22-2011, 09:00 AM
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Ok on the new wheel bearing we got 1190 ohms and .001 millivolts. So it looks like the new wheel bearing is bad.

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Old 12-22-2011, 09:51 AM
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Checked again and no power to the sensor.
Old 12-22-2011, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
Ok on the new wheel bearing we got 1190 ohms and .001 millivolts. So it looks like the new wheel bearing is bad.
how did you perform the test? i.e. where did you connect the meter leads, and what setting did you use on the meter AC or DC? Also, did you spin the wheel?
Old 12-22-2011, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince99FRC
Checked again and no power to the sensor.
The WSS provides the output.......


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